Whale Poop, CEL's

kevman65

kevman65

Hooked
Got the new batteries in, no sparks flying, no broken plastic pieces.

Still have the CEL's, ABS, 4WD, Stability Control, Cruise Control Not Available, ESS Not Available.

Did the Tazer Clear CEL's twice, with a reboot and 2 sleeps after each.

So, which direction do I head from here?

I've got a Bosch OBDII reader that can clear codes, try that?
 
Can't say I've ever had that problem. Did you have that error before replacing the battery? Also, have you tried driving your Jeep around for a bit? It can takes a certain amount of time/driving for things to clear out.
 
wayoflife said:
Can't say I've ever had that problem. Did you have that error before replacing the battery? Also, have you tried driving your Jeep around for a bit? It can takes a certain amount of time/driving for things to clear out.
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I had all of them before, it's why I changed the batteries. They were 4 years and 5 months old to me, plus the "Born on Date".

No, haven't had time to drive it. Have a list of "Honey Do's" and had to work the battery switch in.
 
kevman65 said:
I had all of them before, it's why I changed the batteries. They were 4 years and 5 months old to me, plus the "Born on Date".

No, haven't had time to drive it. Have a list of "Honey Do's" and had to work the battery switch in.
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Okay, I would give your Jeep a drive then. Typically, the ESS error is something you'd get if you steering wheel isn't 100% centered and even after you correct it, it can take a bit of driving to clear it. That said, the ESS error is also something you'd see if you bypassed the auxiliary battery (or so I've been told) but clearly, you have not done that.
 
wayoflife said:
Okay, I would give your Jeep a drive then. Typically, the ESS error is something you'd get if you steering wheel isn't 100% centered and even after you correct it, it can take a bit of driving to clear it. That said, the ESS error is also something you'd see if you bypassed the auxiliary battery (or so I've been told) but clearly, you have not done that.
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Yeah, not doing the bypass is your fault. After you made the statement that it's protection for all the computer crap during startup I decided to leave it.
 
kevman65 said:
Yeah, not doing the bypass is your fault. After you made the statement that it's protection for all the computer crap during startup I decided to leave it.
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That's a hoot! I can't tell you how many people try and tell me how stupid I am for not doing it and on a regular basis.
 
Here's the Codes I'm getting;

U0148: ABS Communication Fault

U140B: Rear Left Speed Sensor Communication Fault

U0168: Security Module Communication Fault ( I am running a Tazer)

So, can the speed sensor also affect the ABS or do I have two separate problems?

Also, going to drive it before I order parts.
 
Take the positive and neg cable off the battery and hook jumper cables up between the cables. Use the same clamp on both ends of the jumper. Leave them hooked up for 20-30 mins at least. Can do for much longer if wanted. This will drain all the capacitors for the keep alive memory in the truck. This will clear all the codes. Then you can recheck what comes back, if any, after you reconnect the battery
 
cozdude said:
Take the positive and neg cable off the battery and hook jumper cables up between the cables. Use the same clamp on both ends of the jumper. Leave them hooked up for 20-30 mins at least. Can do for much longer if wanted. This will drain all the capacitors for the keep alive memory in the truck. This will clear all the codes. Then you can recheck what comes back, if any, after you reconnect the battery
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The positive and negative cables were separated and unattached for 20 hours from taking out old batteries to installing new batteries.
 
kevman65 said:
The positive and negative cables were separated and unattached for 20 hours from taking out old batteries to installing new batteries.
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I would still do it again and put the cables between them. I have had never vehicle hold the energy for a long time with the cables disconnected.
 
All those popped up when I had to replace the clock spring on my 2010 jk, there were a couple of codes that I later found were related to the cruise control multi-function module that I had to replace after the clock spring
 
Okay, this is odd.

Got a new rear ABS wheel speed sensor, went to install it and it's the harness side of the connector where the problem is.
The two wires going into the Molex connector are both broken off about 1/4" from the connector.

After peeling back miles of that great tape they use it looks like the wires were twisting and then broke.
Only problem with that is there's only about 4" of wire between the Molex and where the wires enter the wiring harness (driver side).

Don't know what caused it, found a new connector on ebay with what appears to be about 6" of tail wire. So will be doing some splicing.
 
Had a friend that had one eat through his wiring harness on a brand new Honda Civic. They had to tear apart the car to fix it. Scary shit
 
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