Warn 8274 Rebuild

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
So I recently acquired a Jeep OE Warn 8274 from a 78 CJ. I made this thread to document my process of restoring it in case anyone was doing the same or interested in reading. My plan is to rebuild the brake, replace the seals and whatever components that need to be replaced. I also plan on modifying my front bumper on my JK to mount it on the front. I understand it's probably not the most popular idea but it's something I've been wanting to do.

First step is going to be the breakdown of the winch to prepare it for media blasting and paint and repair any broken/worn out components.

I first removed the cable by removing the end cap and the clamp holding the line. I plan on moving to synthetic line and the cable had several frayed sections I decided to throw this out.
20181208_131625.jpg

Remove the control box by removing the leads and the clamps holding it against the motor.
20181208_132643.jpg
20181208_132717.jpg

To remove the motor you have to remove the two long bolts on the end and it should slide out through the armature bearing.
20181208_133116.jpg20181208_135501.jpg

Remove the brake pawl. Remove the top and pull out the spring and keep. Mine was missing a zerg fitting so I'll have to replace it.
20181208_134201.jpg

Remove the clutch by unbolting the 4 bolts around it and it should pull out with the key attached or it may fall to the bottom which is okay. You may have to use some blaster but you'll have to unscrew the handle and slide the clutch out of the mounting hole. There will be a spring and small bearing you'll need to remove and clean and keep to the side. No replacements available so if you lose it you'll have to buy a whole new clutch.
20181208_140520.jpg20181208_140438.jpg20181220_220128.jpg

Remove the two halves of the casings by remove the surrounding 3 bolts. You might need to use some leverage to pull them apart due to the sealant. I just used a long screwdriver.
20181208_134344.jpg20181208_140042.jpg

Since my armature bearing was pretty rusted I decided to remove it and replace with a new one. Simply hammer it out from the inside. There is a lip so you wont be able to hammer it from the outside.
20181208_150742.jpg

To tackle the brake and depending on the rust it's probably the hardest and longest part. You'll want to blast it first and then take off the c clamp.
20181208_143303.jpg

I was unable to remove it by hand so I used a metal clamp to hold it in place and hammer it out. You can also use a puller but I didn't have one at the time. Be careful when taking the brake apart because the bearing will fall all over the place, place it over a bucket to catch them to make it easier.
20181208_143614.jpg
20181208_143854.jpg

Remove the brake shaft by lifting up on the retainer plate that's against the casing and push it out with a flat head screwdriver. Might take a couple thrusts to push it out.
20181208_144649.jpg20181208_145240.jpg

I forgot to take a picture but the drum will slide out and you just need to remove the nylon and rubber seals from the drum. Hammer out the nylon seal where the drum is inserted into the casing.

Now it's time to clean up everything, media blast it, and paint it.
 
So I recently acquired a Jeep OE Warn 8274 from a 78 CJ. I made this thread to document my process of restoring it in case anyone was doing the same or interested in reading. My plan is to rebuild the brake, replace the seals and whatever components that need to be replaced. I also plan on modifying my front bumper on my JK to mount it on the front. I understand it's probably not the most popular idea but it's something I've been wanting to do.

First step is going to be the breakdown of the winch to prepare it for media blasting and paint and repair any broken/worn out components.

I first removed the cable by removing the end cap and the clamp holding the line. I plan on moving to synthetic line and the cable had several frayed sections I decided to throw this out.
View attachment 317342

Remove the control box by removing the leads and the clamps holding it against the motor.
View attachment 317343
View attachment 317344

To remove the motor you have to remove the two long bolts on the end and it should slide out through the armature bearing.
View attachment 317345View attachment 317346

Remove the brake pawl. Remove the top and pull out the spring and keep. Mine was missing a zerg fitting so I'll have to replace it.
View attachment 317347

Remove the clutch by unbolting the 4 bolts around it and it should pull out with the key attached or it may fall to the bottom which is okay. You may have to use some blaster but you'll have to unscrew the handle and slide the clutch out of the mounting hole. There will be a spring and small bearing you'll need to remove and clean and keep to the side. No replacements available so if you lose it you'll have to buy a whole new clutch.
View attachment 317351View attachment 317350View attachment 317353

Remove the two halves of the casings by remove the surrounding 3 bolts. You might need to use some leverage to pull them apart due to the sealant. I just used a long screwdriver.
View attachment 317348View attachment 317354

Since my armature bearing was pretty rusted I decided to remove it and replace with a new one. Simply hammer it out from the inside. There is a lip so you wont be able to hammer it from the outside.
View attachment 317360

To tackle the brake and depending on the rust it's probably the hardest and longest part. You'll want to blast it first and then take off the c clamp.
View attachment 317355

I was unable to remove it by hand so I used a metal clamp to hold it in place and hammer it out. You can also use a puller but I didn't have one at the time. Be careful when taking the brake apart because the bearing will fall all over the place, place it over a bucket to catch them to make it easier.
View attachment 317356
View attachment 317357

Remove the brake shaft by lifting up on the retainer plate that's against the casing and push it out with a flat head screwdriver. Might take a couple thrusts to push it out.
View attachment 317358View attachment 317359

I forgot to take a picture but the drum will slide out and you just need to remove the nylon and rubber seals from the drum. Hammer out the nylon seal where the drum is inserted into the casing.

Now it's time to clean up everything, media blast it, and paint it.

Can’t wait to see it finished


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Lube up the base of the drum and nylon seal. Slip on the seal and seat to on the base.
20181219_221436.jpg
Lube up the o ring and seat it on top of the nylon seal.
20181219_221514.jpg
Tap in the nylon bushing to where it seats flush to the inside of the casing. I marked where the previous one was with a knife. Should be at a depth of . 190
20181219_221816.jpg
Lube up the bushing and slide the drum in.
20181219_222621.jpg
Wiggle the main gear until it locks in place.
20181219_222602.jpg
20181219_222650.jpg
Place the retaining plate between the main gear and the casing
20181219_222952.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Brake rebuild

Place the new o ring on the shaft after lubing up both
20181219_223357.jpg
Slide on the cam
20181219_223511.jpg
Then the bushing
20181219_224616.jpg
Then the seal
20181219_224827.jpg
Then the cardboard washer
20181219_224840.jpg
First brake disc is placed and locked in place
20181219_225014.jpg
Place friction material between the plate and ratchet
20181219_225050.jpg
Add the spring and place the hub on it

20181219_225123.jpg
Place the bearings in and align them to where they touch the ratchet. The trick here is to get the brake as straight as possible. Any lean and the bearing will float everywhere.
20181219_225458.jpg
Place the top disc and gently push down by hand, after putting the second fraction material between the ratchet and brake disc. When you have it, might take a couple try tries, clamp it down.
20181220_200443.jpg
Insert the two locks
20181220_202451.jpg



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Be sure to lube it up before adding the clip
Place the c clip back on and release the clamp
20181220_200740.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Put some oil in the bearing where the brake shaft will be inserted. Just put some oil on your finger and swirl it around the inside of the bearing.
20181220_204019.jpg
Slide the brake shaft in going through the middle gear. Tap the brake it until the seal is seated and remove the cardboard spacer.
20181220_204359.jpg
Install the brake pawl. With the top cap off, insert the spring, twist it clockwise and rest it like you see in the picture. Add the cap and bolt it in place.
20181220_204708.jpg
Add your oil, people use gear oil or warn recommends 6 oz of 30w non detergent.
20181220_213728.jpg
Add your sealant and place the top casing onto the bottom and bolt it together. 20181220_214946.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
If your armature bearing was shot, tap in the new one until it's seated.
20181221_184421.jpg
Slide in the motor, lube first. I opted to use sealant on both ends of the motor.
20181221_184857.jpg
Bolt the motor in with the two long bolts
20181220_220128.jpg
For the clutch, place the spring in the hole and place the bearing on top. Lube up the clutch shaft and insert in. You'll have to use a screwdriver to push the bearing and spring downward while pushing in the shaft.
20181220_224413.jpg
Slide the clutch onto the key and slide the key onto the armature.

Add sealant to the clutch. Bolt the clutch in and twist on the knob

20181220_225403.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
I used this diagram for my wiring. I went with the superchips contractor instead of the factory solenoids.Screenshot_20181220-110347_YouTube.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Here it is mounted. Just have to add my line which I will do later.20181225_155549.jpg20181225_155543.jpg20181226_095302.jpg20181226_095254.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Very nice writeup! :thumb:
These are badass winches. I'd love to pick one of these up someday.
Thanks. It was fun tearing it apart and putting it back together. I love the history behind this winch and can't wait to use it. So many people rave about them.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Awesome job and great write up. Sure it may not be as sleek as some of the new Warns but I bet this thing won't let you down. It came out awesome. Aside from the clutch parts were replacement parts still readily available?

Sent from my 2PYB2 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Awesome job and great write up. Sure it may not be as sleek as some of the new Warns but I bet this thing won't let you down. It came out awesome. Aside from the clutch parts were replacement parts still readily available?

Sent from my 2PYB2 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Thanks. Yea parts are easy to come by. Since warn still sells that particular winch they still have all the parts for sale, from the mounting bolts to the motor. Gigglepin is a company in the UK that sells their own upgraded versions for people who are in competitions.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
That's a great thing about Warn, parts always seem to be available for even their oldest models :thumb:
 
I missed this when you first posted it up, well done. That’s going to be a huge help when I begin the process of tearing mine down and rebuilding it. Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
No problem. Just let me know if you get stuck on anything. I probably forgot something along the way, I got impatient on taking pictures on some parts haha.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
No problem. Just let me know if you get stuck on anything. I probably forgot something along the way, I got impatient on taking pictures on some parts haha.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I get it! You did a great job documenting it. I would have missed a ton. I’ll let you know as I get it taken down if I have any questions.

Thanks again,


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Top Bottom