Torque specs

RSQCON

RSQCON

Member
I just got back from running the Rubicon and Fordyce and we had a couple small things that needed to be addressed. One of my good buddies is a 'good and tight' kind of guy when it comes to stuff but that's just not my style. My OCDness requires me to know actual torque values when it comes to tightening bolts so I'd like to start a thread and start compiling data. Understandably it won't be universal but hopefully I can help and others can pitch in on stuff I'm looking for. Here is what I have so far...

Axle shaft flange bolt (rear) Dynatrac 65 ft lb Red
Ball joint nut (lower) Dynatrac 140 ft lb None
Ball joint nut (upper) Dynatrac 85 ft lb None
Beadlock ring bolts KMC 20-24 ft lb None
Belt tensioner Mopar 24 ft lb N/A
Caliper bolt (front) Dynatrac 150 ft lb Red
Caliper bolt (rear) Dynatrac 110 ft lb Red
Diff cover bolts (front) Dynatrac 25 ft lb Red
Diff cover bolts (rear) Dynatrac 35 ft lb Red
Pinion nut (front/rear) Dynatrac 250 ft lb Red
Steering arm Dynatrac 105 ft lb Red
Tie rod castle nut 63 ft lb None
Tie rod/Drag link clamps Dynatrac 35-45 ft lb Blue
Transfer case yoke (front/rear) Adams 160 ft lb ” Red
Transfer case flange bolts Adams No Value Red
Winch mount bolts Warn 30-35 ft lb Blue

Some of the numbers I am looking to add...I know Evo has a torque chart at the end of their instructions but for example my arms have a clamping bolt and then a jam nut. if you go based off their chart the bolt is something like 30 ft lb which seems way low and the jam nut isn't addresses.

Dynatrac Pro Rock 60 9/16" lug nuts
Evo Double D Long arms
Evo bolt on coilovers
 
mallavoider said:
Im not sure if this ok to do, but another website has all of the torque specs one would need...
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I've seen it and it has some great information but it's all related to factory Jeeps and the underside of my Jeep is more aftermarket than stock.
 
I, as well, have a lot of aftermarket underside. But I still find it very useful as a quick reference. I noticed that even aftermarket suspension components , such as control arms etc, the specs have not changed.

I try to re torque my Jeep every 2-3 time I take her out. And as for a DD she has seen quite a few black diamonds. LOL.

Good luck!


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mallavoider said:
Im not sure if this ok to do, but another website has all of the torque specs one would need.
Please delete my post if it is not allowed.
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-ups/jeep-jk-wrangler-torque-settings#frontsusp

I use this all the time.


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Lol. Yes it’s fine. In fact there is a link from this forum to Project JK, and those torque settings in the FAQ section. Project JK is a predecessor of the forum, and Wayoflife and CarsonCityCindy provided all of that information.


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I write the torque for bolts with a fine point paint pen, next to or on the bolt head. That way I don't need to search for them when needed. Like out on the trail with no cell service.


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Good idea but a lot of the stuff I've marked with a paint pen comes off when I clean the undercarriage on my Jeep. My plan is to build a quick reference guide. I'll plasticize one and throw it in with my spare parts and then also keep a copy downloaded on my phone. I've been able to add quite a bit since my first post so it's coming along nicely. It amazes me how many manufacturers' instructions refer you to torque to factory numbers yet it either uses a completely new bracket or if it still secure to the factory location why don't they simply list the factory spec. Lame
 
So... I recently ran across some discussions regarding torque while researching for designing a trailer frame and found this to be quite interesting.

https://youtu.be/XMjQTl_x3fc

Made me think twice about what I’m actually getting in regards to tension on the fasteners when torqued to spec.


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prionic1 said:
So... I recently ran across some discussions regarding torque while researching for designing a trailer frame and found this to be quite interesting.

https://youtu.be/XMjQTl_x3fc

Made me think twice about what I’m actually getting in regards to tension on the fasteners when torqued to spec.


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This is WHY the torque specs DONT change, regardless of the parts being factory or aftermarket. a 3/4-10 galvanized bolt will always need 130 ft-lbs. regardless if its OEM or aftermarket. control arm bolts utilize OEM hardware on the axles, the threads never change, I.E. the torque spec remains the same.

This is ALSO why it is important to replace head bolts in some engines if the heads are removed from the block, the clamp force required exceeds the elastic limit of the hardware, meaning the hardware is perminately streatched and will no longer produce the required clamping force, even if "torqued to spec" again. *stress vs. strain curve for those interested in a little "light" reading

Makes you kinda wanna murder people when they use impacts on your lug nuts, doesn't it. :gaah:

37873734_1459739497459955_1274198929935695872_n.jpg
 
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DWiggles said:
This is WHY the torque specs DONT change, regardless of the parts being factory or aftermarket. a 3/4-10 galvanized bolt will always need 130 ft-lbs. regardless if its OEM or aftermarket. control arm bolts utilize OEM hardware on the axles, the threads never change, I.E. the torque spec remains the same.

This is ALSO why it is important to replace head bolts in some engines if the heads are removed from the block, the clamp force required exceeds the elastic limit of the hardware, meaning the hardware is perminately streatched and will no longer produce the required clamping force, even if "torqued to spec" again. *stress vs. strain curve for those interested in a little "light" reading

Makes you kinda wanna murder people when they use impacts on your lug nuts, doesn't it. :gaah:

View attachment 308874
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Classic.....And yes, ALWAYS recheck the torque on lugnuts after visit to tire shop. NEVER accurate. I even had one shop use loctite on threads! Long process to run tap through lug nuts and die over studs to clean that shit off. Not necessary if torqued correctly. Lug nuts should "spin on" by hand with no resistance, period!!!
 
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The core of that video is advertisement for huck bolts and many aftermarket products use different size hardware. I've contacted a handful of companies who have been able to provide me with specs that they do not list in the instructions.
 
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RSQCON said:
The core of that video is advertisement for huck bolts and many aftermarket products use different size hardware. I've contacted a handful of companies who have been able to provide me with specs that they do not list in the instructions.
Click to expand...

Huck bolts are great fasteners but are for applications where you essentially never want to take them apart. They are used in many places like frames of over the road tractors that are designed for million mile service. You would never use them for most common Jeep applications where you are needing to occasionally check torque.


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I know thats why I was saying the video was produced by a company trying to sell huck bolts and it's slightly biased in there discussion on the theory of torque.
 
yeah they definitely are a permanent fastener. It’s like mechanical welding... I just recently learned about them while researching trailers and considering the m1101/2 humvee surplus trailers. Funny, was just helping my folks move and the uhaul they got was a ford 650. Looked at its frame and it was held together with huck bolts.

I think you’re using those where welding might crack due to vibration.


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