To Bead or not to Bead

StormTrooper_JK

StormTrooper_JK

Member
Hopefully I’ve gone about this the right way, it’s my first post on here.

I’m looking for input on the purchase of beadlocks. If I do make the leap, I’ve settled on Raceline Monsters for my 2012 JKU. I do 7-10 legit trails a year and have been off-roading since I purchased my Jeep new in 2012. I’ve only ever peeled a bead one time and after I moved forward it seated back up and I moved on without any issues.

I currently run 20” wheels with 37” Cooper STTs on stock Dana 44’s. I’ve Artec trussed and gusseted the front end and nothing in the rear. I run Evo’s Enforcer Pro coilover suspension with Currie lower control arms.

I don’t know that I NEED beadlocks but I feel like I want them and I’m seriously agonizing over it. I do prefer wheeling in remote areas so I know there’s a risk of something really going wrong. Any input would be appreciated.


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I think the issue for you is whether to stay with 20” wheels or go to a 17” wheel. I would recommend the 17” wheel, as there are more tire choices and also you have more sidewall to flex when you air down, which is the point of beadlocks to begin with.

Another consideration is backspacing. I don’t know what it is on the racelines, but I would think you’d want something in the range of 3.5” (eg Slabs) to 4” (eg chamber Pro IIs).

In terms of “risks of things going wrong,” I’m not sure there are any greater risks than with a standard wheel. I’ve been running my chamber Pro IIs for several years both on and off road and they have been flawless. Check the rings bolts every few months and you’re good to go.

One thing that is a bit of a hassle though is that many tire shops won’t touch beadlocks. So don’t plan on having your neighborhood chain tire place mount and balance them for you.
 
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I appreciate the input. I’m very happy with the Coops but they are pricey in a 20” wheel and correct on the backspacing, has to be 3.5” or less. Raceline does have something that will work.

I usually air down to about 14 and do have less sidewall which is something I’ve been concerned about but been lucky so far.

Only 2 places in Reno I’ve found will touch them which is also a concern, especially if I’m out of town and needing any possible repairs.


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In my opinion, I don't feel they are worth it personally. I play mostly in rocks, and have only unseated a bead once as well, and that was because I used my hydro to push away from a rock. It's easy enough to reseat a bead with anything flammable and a mallet anyway. I'm a bit biased though as any beadlock wheel is $500+ each, and illegal here.

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I'd have to agree with the 17" recommendation but even more to the point, if you've been good so far without bead locks, I might recommend that you just stick with a non beadlock wheel as they are a hell of a lot cheaper, can be installed by a shop anywhere and for cheap and you won't have any issues getting them balanced.
 
JKDream said:
In my opinion, I don't feel they are worth it personally. I play mostly in rocks, and have only unseated a bead once as well, and that was because I used my hydro to push away from a rock. It's easy enough to reseat a bead with anything flammable and a mallet anyway. I'm a bit biased though as any beadlock wheel is $500+ each, and illegal here.

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Click to expand...

Also note that, on most beadlocks, only the outer bead is locked by a ring. You can still roll the inner bead even with beadlocks. It’s happened to me twice. Easy to re-seat with CO2, but probably not with a compressor.
 
In addition to locking the bead.... the other main benefit is that the ring takes all the beating as you slide through rocks.
 
I have Raceline Monsters in a 17x9-4" back spacing. I've been happy them. I went with beadlocks because I like the look and wanted them more than anything. I knew if I purchased non bead locks I'd end up buying them later and costing me more money in the long run...haha. I go down to 10-12 on 35x12.50 km2's. Wish the aluminum ring was available when I got them as the ring bolts sit slightly recessed offering more protection.

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fiend said:
Also note that, on most beadlocks, only the outer bead is locked by a ring. You can still roll the inner bead even with beadlocks. It’s happened to me twice. Easy to re-seat with CO2, but probably not with a compressor.
Click to expand...

I e used my cheap viair to seat the inside bead every time I’ve changed tires. No issues.


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Since you play in the rocks, say go for it. I air down 8-10 psi without worries. My tires balanced just fine. I actually prefer rock rash on the rings rather than trying to keep them nice.

As mentioned, the downside is getting them installed. I'm pretty handy and I failed to get a single tire over the wheel to install them. I got one so stuck and had to trailer the whole mess to the off-road shop who gladly charged me $500 (1 hr labor per wheel) to mount and balance. I know, ouch. They did do a good job, torqued to 24ft lbs and used anti-seize as I asked for. I wish I could have found a shop that would have just slung the tires onto the wheels with their machine, then let me take 'em home for the labor intensive rock ring torque ceremony.

I'm already nervous about who's going to put new tires on the wheels when the time comes.

Now that I'm down in south florida, beadlocks are a waste, but I'm only here for a few more years.
 
I appreciate all the info from everyone. I too kind of like the rock rash, sets me apart from all the jackass mall crawlers around here. I’m really torn but I feel like I’m leaning toward them. I was thinking about the black steel ring. Is there pro or con to steel versus aluminum?


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StormTrooper_JK said:
I appreciate all the info from everyone. I too kind of like the rock rash, sets me apart from all the jackass mall crawlers around here. I’m really torn but I feel like I’m leaning toward them. I was thinking about the black steel ring. Is there pro or con to steel versus aluminum?


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Click to expand...

Steel rusts. Steel will bend. Depending on the design, the ring bolt heads may not be recessed, so they will get chewed up and may not take a tool when it comes time to remove the tires.
 
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