Tierod and drag link replacement

kyle521

kyle521

Member
Whats the general recommendation for a replacement tie rod and drag link. Going to redo the steering arms when I get a new axle as all my joints are spitting grease. From what I've read I should just go with a mopar replacement drag link, I only have 2.5 inch of lift so is it worth it to do the flip? Is aftermarket worth the extra cost? I've read some stuff on currie tie rods, but I am open to recommendations on that front. Stock or aftermarket?
 
kyle521 said:
Whats the general recommendation for a replacement tie rod and drag link. Going to redo the steering arms when I get a new axle as all my joints are spitting grease. From what I've read I should just go with a mopar replacement drag link, I only have 2.5 inch of lift so is it worth it to do the flip? Is aftermarket worth the extra cost? I've read some stuff on currie tie rods, but I am open to recommendations on that front. Stock or aftermarket?
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Can’t help on the components as I just carry spare stockers but, if u do the flip, u will have to run 3” of bumpstop up front. Unless you’re already running that much, you’ll lose some uptravel. Just something to think about.


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Id seriously look at the options from Currie. I now run their HD TR and it is beefy for the price. They also off DL options.
 
JAGS said:
Id seriously look at the options from Currie. I now run their HD TR and it is beefy for the price. They also off DL options.
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It looks like they have two tie rods, one HD for over $600 and one for around $300. Is the HD twice the tierod? Only running 35s for the foreseeable future.
 
kyle521 said:
It looks like they have two tie rods, one HD for over $600 and one for around $300. Is the HD twice the tierod? Only running 35s for the foreseeable future.
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I can't recall the name. The Heavy duty and extreme duty? Anyways I run the $300 ish version. Nice upgrade over stock.
 
JAGS said:
I can't recall the name. The Heavy duty and extreme duty? Anyways I run the $300 ish version. Nice upgrade over stock.
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Awesome, thank you! I think I will go that route. As far as the flip, I wont do it until 37s as I can still use the uptravel with 35s. I believe I have only 1.5 or 2 inch bump stop extensions
 
kyle521 said:
Whats the general recommendation for a replacement tie rod and drag link. Going to redo the steering arms when I get a new axle as all my joints are spitting grease. From what I've read I should just go with a mopar replacement drag link, I only have 2.5 inch of lift so is it worth it to do the flip? Is aftermarket worth the extra cost? I've read some stuff on currie tie rods, but I am open to recommendations on that front. Stock or aftermarket?
Click to expand...

For your tie-rod, I too would recommend Currie. For your drag link, I still run a factory one.
 
I’m running a Synergy drag link and built a tie rod using the ruffstuff parts. Only con I have of the two is the boots that come with the TRE’s from RuffStuff are crap. I got some replacement ones from Energy Suspension that hold grease much better. I’m definitely happy with the price of the tie rod though. I built an extra for a trail spare.


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Before moving up to 1 ton axles we ran the WFO extreme duty tie rod and had absolutely no issues whatsoever. It’s beefy at 2” OD and .250” wall thickness DOM, with GM 1 ton tie rod ends, not to mention it comes with a well built clamp that can be used for your steering stabilizer or hydro assist. While it isn’t cheap at $480, you get what you pay for. I’ve seen them take hard hits and not give at all.



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Exodus Jeeps said:
Before moving up to 1 ton axles we ran the WFO extreme duty tie rod and had absolutely no issues whatsoever. It’s beefy at 2” OD and .250” wall thickness DOM, with GM 1 ton tie rod ends, not to mention it comes with a well built clamp that can be used for your steering stabilizer or hydro assist. While it isn’t cheap at $480, you get what you pay for. I’ve seen them take hard hits and not give at all.



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WFO will take a beating.FB_IMG_1510287869772.jpg

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I'll second the motion on WFO. My tie rod is actually the one from Exodus Jeep's rig when I bought his axles. I like that it doesn't wobble. I sold my synergy tie rod when I got this one. The clamp is fantastic as well. OEM drag link.
 
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If WFO uses 1010 (worst case) there tie rod is 13.6% stronger than the $740 4130 Currie tie rod

The Currie will fail with a point load of 53,430 lbs

The WFO would fail with a point load of 61,851 lbs (assuming 1010)

The only worry is that WFO is unaware of what grade steel they are actually using. Only that it is "DOM tubing" ...

If we ASSume they are using 1020 (the most common grade Drawn Over Mandrel) it will only be in WFO's favor. Needless to say, for 65% of the cost, I went with the "minimum of 13% stronger" option. The WFO "Extreme"

sent from SPACE!
DZZ Build thread
 
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DWiggles said:
If WFO uses 1010 (worst case) there tie rod is 13.6% stronger than the $740 4130 Currie tie rod

The Currie will fail with a point load of 53,430 lbs

The WFO will fail with a point load of 61,851 lbs

The only worry is that WFO is unaware of what grade steel they are actually using. Only that it is "DOM tubing"

If we ASSume they are using 1020 (the most common grade Drawn Over Mandrel) it will only be in WFO's favor. Needless to say, for 65% of the cost, I went with the "minimum of 13% stronger" option. The WFO "Extreme"

sent from SPACE!
DZZ Build thread
Click to expand...

Nerd. Lol.
 
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