This is how you remove a rusted wheel nut.

Lourens

Lourens

New member
This is what happens when a dealership does not use the correct method to tighted wheel nuts... Airtool and no coppercompound. Now after some water and mileage nothing gets this wheel nut off. After three broken sockets... and hours of drilling to save the mag... the only way is destroy the mag wheel!
 

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I've used these with really good luck. One ended up snapping the stud, but at least I saved the wheel and only had to replace the stud.

 
Lourens said:
This is what happens when a dealership does not use the correct method to tighted wheel nuts... Airtool and no coppercompound. Now after some water and mileage nothing gets this wheel nut off. After three broken sockets... and hours of drilling to save the mag... the only way is destroy the mag wheel!
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Sooooo should I take my lugs back off and put some of that compound on it?
 
jnabird333 said:
I've used these with really good luck. One ended up snapping the stud, but at least I saved the wheel and only had to replace the stud.

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Beat me too it. Lol. I was looking up the part number of the kit I got.

I have the LSR1500 through Blue point. It's similar to the kit JNABIRD posted. I haven't found one yet that it wouldn't remove. Not saying it will take them all off. Just saying I haven't found one yet.

Also not that it would help you now. Good luck on yours.
 
JakeJK said:
Sooooo should I take my lugs back off and put some of that compound on it?
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This is likely going to start a small debate. Many feel the studs should remain dry and that the torque specification is based upon a dry thread. I personally use just a bit of anti-seize on mine (the paste kind in a chap stick tube). I honestly don't know if Jeep recommends it or not but GM's specifications for lug torque are inclusive to anti-seize use.
 
That sucks!
I had a stripped lug on my Cherokee once. The shop in town broke two snap-on sockets trying to get it off then gave up. I ended up getting a side cutting carbide dremel bit from a guy at work and with a lot of cutting, drilling and a small chisel I finally got it with only a little cosmetic damage to the rim. I spent hours working on that thing. Got a new stud and was good to go.

I do use a little never seize on my lugs now...
 
The ant-seize compound just keeps the studs from rusting and locking up from heat or other elements that does not go with any threads... This was a good example. If they used anti-seize compound or as we call it in South Africa copper compound then even if they weve over tightend they would have came loose with some effort.
 
jnabird333 said:
This is likely going to start a small debate. Many feel the studs should remain dry and that the torque specification is based upon a dry thread. I personally use just a bit of anti-seize on mine (the paste kind in a chap stick tube). I honestly don't know if Jeep recommends it or not but GM's specifications for lug torque are inclusive to anti-seize use.
Click to expand...

Yeah I read that using an antiseize can act as a lubricant throwing the torque specs off, since it's easier to tighten it pulls on the stud more with the same torque applied, but I don't know how much of an effect that would have on this type of system. It could be a negligible amount in which case it would be beneficial to use antiseize so you don't have to fool with a rusted bolt haha
 
JakeJK said:
Yeah I read that using an antiseize can act as a lubricant throwing the torque specs off, since it's easier to tighten it pulls on the stud more with the same torque applied, but I don't know how much of an effect that would have on this type of system. It could be a negligible amount in which case it would be beneficial to use antiseize so you don't have to fool with a rusted bolt haha
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Yup, I've read that too, but I wonder just how accurate a toque reading one is getting on dry threads? It seems to me it would be more accurate on a thread that is in good condition over one that is galled up. But that's just my :twocents:
 
jnabird333 said:
Yup, I've read that too, but I wonder just how accurate a toque reading one is getting on dry threads? It seems to me it would be more accurate on a thread that is in good condition over one that is galled up. But that's just my :twocents:
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Yep I was also thinking that, too many variables haha
 
To avoid rusting, I live in the desert, southwest. Although I grew up in Indiana and have lived in Michigan. I think I actually hate rust more than mud. :yup:
 
I need an impact wrench. I don't have an air compressor though are electric wrenches worth it
 
JakeJK said:
I need an impact wrench. I don't have an air compressor though are electric wrenches worth it
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I have a 1/2 and a 3/8 cordless snap on impact and they are awesome. A lot of people on here run the Milwaukee (if I rem right) and have good luck with them too.
 
jnabird333 said:
This is likely going to start a small debate. Many feel the studs should remain dry and that the torque specification is based upon a dry thread. I personally use just a bit of anti-seize on mine (the paste kind in a chap stick tube). I honestly don't know if Jeep recommends it or not but GM's specifications for lug torque are inclusive to anti-seize use.
Click to expand...

Using an anti-seize compound on the studs actually reduces the clamping force of the lug nut when torqued to factory spec. Using a drop of 30wt oil on the stud will increase the clamping force when torqued to factory spec. I believe the studs are recommended to be torqued dry. But everyone has their own way of doing things.
 
The nut actualy broke in half leaving only the back half with no place to grip anymore... thats why we hade no choice but to drill and get it off any way we can. Luckily we had lots of spare mags.
 
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