TECH TIP : Jeep JK Wrangler Steer Stop Adjustment

wayoflife

wayoflife

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Staff member
If you've just installed a set of bigger tires on your stock wheels or on a set of new wheels with too much back spacing, there's a good chance that you'll have some rubbing issues on your front sway bar, frame rail and/or lower control arms while making a full turn. This is also something you might see after installing a small lift especially if an adjustable front track bar wasn't included with the kit. Now, the obvious fix for this would be to install a set of wheels that have less back spacing or install a set of wheel spacers to help reduce your back spacing or, in the case of a lift related issue, install an adjustable front track bar to recenter your axle but, if the rubbing you're seeing is very minor, you may find it just as easy to adjust out your steer stops. Although this will cause you to loose some of your turning radius, this fix is super easy, cheap and can be done in within minutes using a couple washers and a wrench.

What You Will Need
• 9/16" Socket & Wrench
• Ratchet
• 3/8" Washers

What you need to do
1. The steer stops on a Jeep JK Wrangler are located on the back side of the steering knuckles as is indicated by the arrow in this pic.
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2. Using a 9/16" socket, remove the steer stop bolt.
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3. Place a 3/8" washer onto the steer stop bolt.
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4. Reinstall the steer stop bolt and washer back onto the steering knuckle.
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5. This is what your steer stop bolt should look like when all is said and done. Although it may not look like much, this little washer will most likely be all that you need to fix your rubbing. If you still have rubbing issues, you can always add another washer or two but remember, the more washers you add, the more you will increase your Jeeps turning radius or, reduce it's ability to make tighter turns.
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I hope you found this TECH TIP to be helpful. :cool:
 
Cool! :thumb:

Mine rub on the control arms and I've been meaning to figure out how to do this. Of course, by not doing it I was slowly convincing myself that I need new wheels with 3.5" backspacing. :cheesy:
 
Cool article, oddly enough I just read on a hydro steering topic recently that this wasn't adjustable on the JK, that it was welded in place. So they were wrong. The more you know.


MTG said:
Cool! :thumb:

Mine rub on the control arms and I've been meaning to figure out how to do this. Of course, by not doing it I was slowly convincing myself that I need new wheels with 3.5" backspacing. :cheesy:
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Or some wheel spacers. :)
 
LoPo said:
Cool article, oddly enough I just read on a hydro steering topic recently that this wasn't adjustable on the JK, that it was welded in place. So they were wrong. The more you know.
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All I can say is that there is a lot of REALLY bad information on the interent.
 
wayoflife said:
All I can say is that there is a lot of REALLY bad information on the interent.
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I'm shocked! :shock:

LoPo said:
Cool article, oddly enough I just read on a hydro steering topic recently that this wasn't adjustable on the JK, that it was welded in place. So they were wrong. The more you know.

Or some wheel spacers. :)
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Steering assist is high on my build/wish list. Why would I go with wheel spacers and save myself a couple thousand dollars? :crazyeyes:
 
Thanks i will try this tomorrow, I have to wait 1 week to get spacers.... So this will make my week go fast and I won't cry no more for the pain of my tires lol
 
MTG said:
Cool! :thumb:

Mine rub on the control arms and I've been meaning to figure out how to do this. Of course, by not doing it I was slowly convincing myself that I need new wheels with 3.5" backspacing. :cheesy:
Click to expand...

I installed the 2.5" Teraflex spring lift, fox cd reservoirs, atx slabs on 315/70/17 today & I'm now hearing a rubbing noise when reversing fully to the left or right. Dark out now, but does anyone have any ideas what's causing it?


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
wayoflife said:
If you've just installed a set of bigger tires on your stock wheels or on a set of new wheels with too much back spacing, there's a good chance that you'll have some rubbing issues on your front sway bar, frame rail and/or lower control arms while making a full turn. This is also something you might see after installing a small lift especially if an adjustable front track bar wasn't included with the kit. Now, the obvious fix for this would be to install a set of wheels that have less back spacing or install a set of wheel spacers to help reduce your back spacing or, in the case of a lift related issue, install an adjustable front track bar to recenter your axle but, if the rubbing you're seeing is very minor, you may find it just as easy to adjust out your steer stops. Although this will cause you to loose some of your turning radius, this fix is super easy, cheap and can be done in within minutes using a couple washers and a wrench.
Click to expand...

Possibly a dumb question, but assuming you've got wheels with 3.5" backspacing, are there any (possible) disadvantages to removing this bolt altogether? The upside seems like I'd be able to get a better turning radius, but I'd have to be careful or I might cause rubbing from turning too far or maybe overstressing my steering box?
 
JK_Dave said:
Possibly a dumb question, but assuming you've got wheels with 3.5" backspacing, are there any (possible) disadvantages to removing this bolt altogether? The upside seems like I'd be able to get a better turning radius, but I'd have to be careful or I might cause rubbing from turning too far or maybe overstressing my steering box?
Click to expand...

I can see a big issue with causing upstream damage to the steering box and linkage. If something is forcing the wheel beyond what the box can provide, something will break. This little bolt prevents that from happening.
 
Been dealing with this for awhile...the side nobs on the Nitto Mud-Crawlers are big...rubs on front links occasionally...hopefully this will tame it. :thumb:
 
Does anyone happen to know how much extra clearance the washer provides? Is it a 1:1 ratio, whereas you add an 1/8th" thick washer and you only gain an 1/8th" of clearance or is it greater?

Basically, If I wanted to jump from a 12.50 to a 13.50 in the same diameter, I'd need to scrub a 1/2" for the added width but I'm thinking it wouldn't be real practical if I had to add 1/2" worth of washers.

Great write-up BTW.
 
Saharaunlmtd said:
Does anyone happen to know how much extra clearance the washer provides? Is it a 1:1 ratio, whereas you add an 1/8th" thick washer and you only gain an 1/8th" of clearance or is it greater?

Basically, If I wanted to jump from a 12.50 to a 13.50 in the same diameter, I'd need to scrub a 1/2" for the added width but I'm thinking it wouldn't be real practical if I had to add 1/2" worth of washers.

Great write-up BTW.
Click to expand...

You can always have someone turn the wheel to full lock so the steering stop hits, then have the helper release the steering wheel while you keep an eye on where the tire is at, once it's moved half inch or so and you're happy with it, look underneath at where steering stop knuckle clearance gap is and measure that. That gets you a rough, idea, but usually you'll have to adjust a couple of times just to get it right. It isn't much at all, small increments.
 
OR: you could replace both the bolt and nut with a new one that's not welded. Then you have a wide range of adjustment.
 
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