Swap to '15 rubi axles?

[fast_suv]

So, I found a set of axles (D44/D44) with 4:10s and lockers with 200 miles for the 4k price range... Comes with everything that attaches to the axles.

My question is, could I lock and regear my current D30/D44 not locked with 3:73 from my '13 sport for less money or for the same amount of money but better quality? Is that front 44 worth upgrading to?

Also I tow a expo trailer; whats a good ratio for a '13 Jku 6 speed on 35s?

 

[cozdude]

So, I found a set of axles (D44/D44) with 4:10s and lockers with 200 miles for the 4k price range... Comes with everything that attaches to the axles.

My question is, could I lock and regear my current D30/D44 not locked with 3:73 from my '13 sport for less money or for the same amount of money but better quality? Is that front 44 worth upgrading to?

Also I tow a expo trailer; whats a good ratio for a '13 Jku 6 speed on 35s?

Your better off regearing and locking your rear d44 and upgrading your front axle to ssomething like a dynatrac prorock44. You can get a fully built pr44 for around 5k and regear and lock your rear for about another 1k. In the long run this option will be cheaper.

The stock d44 front axle is only a d44 in name. It shares the same axle tubes and knuckles as your d30 so it has the same weak points.

 

[shadowpaige64507]

Your better off regearing and locking your rear d44 and upgrading your front axle to ssomething like a dynatrac prorock44. You can get a fully built pr44 for around 5k and regear and lock your rear for about another 1k. In the long run this option will be cheaper.

The stock d44 front axle is only a d44 in name. It shares the same axle tubes and knuckles as your d30 so it has the same weak points.

I agree. I have the d44's with 4.10 and I'm happy with them on 35", I will be upgrading down the road to something like a PR44 and changing the gears at that point. I don't see anything wrong with going to the d44's but not for that price tag.



Edit: I've only had the 35" for a week, so my tune might change on the gears. But happy right now.

 

[BigPrince]

Having upgraded my Rubicon D44s I disagree with the above.

$4k for new stock axles is a little high but not bad for so little mileage. Add Artec trusses & c-gussets on both for ~$400 and you're good to go. You can upgrade axle shafts later and be perfectly fine with 37s. I've run mine no problems. So $4400 and you're in at 4.10s which I actually liked with my 37s.

$5k for just the ProRock front and more like $1.5k to regear & lock the stock rear(which is weaker than a Rubicon rear) and you're in at $6.5k.

Is the Prorock front stronger - yes. Appreciably stronger after adding a truss & c-gussets.... maybe but for $2.5k more, you can buy RCV axle shafts front and 10factory rear for the Rubicon axles and still have money left over.

 

[MR.Ty]

Having upgraded my Rubicon D44s I disagree with the above.

$4k for new stock axles is a little high but not bad for so little mileage. Add Artec trusses & c-gussets on both for ~$400 and you're good to go. You can upgrade axle shafts later and be perfectly fine with 37s. I've run mine no problems. So $4400 and you're in at 4.10s which I actually liked with my 37s.

$5k for just the ProRock front and more like $1.5k to regear & lock the stock rear(which is weaker than a Rubicon rear) and you're in at $6.5k.

Is the Prorock front stronger - yes. Appreciably stronger after adding a truss & c-gussets.... maybe but for $2.5k more, you can buy RCV axle shafts front and 10factory rear for the Rubicon axles and still have money left over.

The stock 44 rear is NOT weaker than a Rubicon 44 rear. They are both true 44s and the only difference is the stock shaft size and the different lengths (in the rubicon model due to the locker)

And for the record, a truss would be a waste of money. Internals break because of bigger tires, Housings break because of speed.

 

[OJK12]

The stock 44 rear is NOT weaker than a Rubicon 44 rear. They are both true 44s and the only difference is the stock shaft size and the different lengths (in the rubicon model due to the locker)

And for the record, a truss would be a waste of money. Internals break because of bigger tires, Housings break because of speed.

Not too mention the one nice thing I liked about my non ruby rear was I only needed to carry one spare shaft instead of both since the non rubys use the same length axle shafts on both sides. If I was building my own axles I'd go the non ruby rear because it would most likely be cheaper to buy and one less part to have to carry.

 

[BigPrince]

The stock 44 rear is NOT weaker than a Rubicon 44 rear. They are both true 44s and the only difference is the stock shaft size and the different lengths (in the rubicon model due to the locker)

And for the record, a truss would be a waste of money. Internals break because of bigger tires, Housings break because of speed.

The housing is not weaker correct - Shaft size on a non-rubicon is 30 spline. Shaft size on a Rubicon is 32 spline. The Rubicon is stronger from the factory.

A truss is not a waste of money but we'll agree to disagree. I wheel with a lot of guys who aren't going fast and we've had guys bend axle tubes. One bent the short side of a Rubicon 44 because he had a truss on the long side but not the short side (before Artec trusses).

 

[MR.Ty]

The housing is not weaker correct - Shaft size on a non-rubicon is 30 spline. Shaft size on a Rubicon is 32 spline. The Rubicon is stronger from the factory.

I stated that without giving numbers. However, if you are going to add a locker (regear etc), all to my knowledge are 35 spline so right off the bat the Rubicon 44 is now the one with the smaller shafts. Again, why waste $4K on a set of axles (that you are going to want to regear anyway) when you can keep your rear and get a better front, all while having a better set up, that you don't have to truss.

A truss is not a waste of money but we'll agree to disagree. I wheel with a lot of guys who aren't going fast and we've had guys bend axle tubes. One bent the short side of a Rubicon 44 because he had a truss on the long side but not the short side (before Artec trusses).

I agree.

 

[BigPrince]

I stated that without giving numbers. However, if you are going to add a locker (regear etc), all to my knowledge are 35 spline so right off the bat the Rubicon 44 is now the one with the smaller shafts. Again, why waste $4K on a set of axles (that you are going to want to regear anyway) when you can keep your rear and get a better front, all while having a better set up, that you don't have to truss.

For 35s I wouldn't bother regearing the Rubicons. 4.10s handle 35s to me.

You're really talking apples to oranges.

Rubicon axles - $4k (add $400 for trusses if you want, $1350 for f/r RCV/10Factory axles if you want)

= $4400 - $5750 total


ProRock Front - $4900 cheapest built on Northridge with ARB, Factory Ball Joints, Factory Yoke, RCV Axles, stock everything else.

Beefing up the rear - $1050 rear locker, $600 for G2 axles on the cheap end or $1500 for RCVs, ~$1000 to regear/install locker cheap labor + parts)

= $7900

I'd save the ~$2200 and buy something else.