Steering Stops and PR 44

Buster3479

Buster3479

Member
I recently changed out my orange knuckles back to stockers (this weekend). The only issue I've had is that the steering stop bolts (no matter how long I try to adjust them), will not contact the housing at full turn. I compared the bolts to the cast REID stops, and they are WAY short. I'm still tripping pump relief at full turn without the CV's binding, and without tires hitting anything, but I'm wondering if the travel is now limited by the rack piston in the gear (NOT an optimal scenario). What are all of you doing for steering stops with PR 44's? Hardware store grade 10.9 longer bolts? There's going to be a helluva long moment on that bolt sticking out that far. I almost wonder if I should weld something on the housing.

If I can get the wife to go out into the garage and steer for me, I'll grab a picture and post it in a few.

Thanks in advance
 
Attached are shots just before pressure relief. First left, then right. Not the best pictures, but it's dark and snowing and the best I can get right now. I can clearly back the bolt out some more, but it really has to come out a lot to make contact, and I'm not sure how many threads I'd have left.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4104.jpg
    IMG_4104.jpg
    79.4 KB · Views: 164
  • IMG_4108.jpg
    IMG_4108.jpg
    69.8 KB · Views: 158
i had the same issue, used a couple of thick offset lock washers to get it set, the bolt was long enough
 
Please explain the relief and how to properly set the stop if you don't mind. I have a PR44 also and I have always thought my turn radius sucks. Maybe I have room to turn the bolts in some. So, how would I know how far is too far? Thanks.
 
T&ERun said:
Please explain the relief and how to properly set the stop if you don't mind. I have a PR44 also and I have always thought my turn radius sucks. Maybe I have room to turn the bolts in some. So, how would I know how far is too far? Thanks.
Click to expand...

depends on what tire/wheel combo you have but it helps to have someone turn the wheel so you can see if you are hitting the steering bump stops, I'm willing to bet you are not hitting the stops and are actually over steering causing your SS to hit the diff cover or overextending it.

I used a bungee cord as my helper - turn the wheel left as far as you can then have your helper hold it there, look to see if you are hitting the stop and check the extension of your steering stabilizer and also check to see if it's hitting anything (you'll probably see wear marks where it's been hitting), repeat the same on the right side.

If you hear a squealing sound when you turn all the way left or right, you have too much steering. Jeeps don't have great turn radius especially with larger tires.

this will help:
http://wayalife.com/content.php?169-TECH-TIP-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Steer-Stop-Adjustment
 
jeeeep said:
depends on what tire/wheel combo you have but it helps to have someone turn the wheel so you can see if you are hitting the steering bump stops, I'm willing to bet you are not hitting the stops and are actually over steering causing your SS to hit the diff cover or overextending it.

I used a bungee cord as my helper - turn the wheel left as far as you can then have your helper hold it there, look to see if you are hitting the stop and check the extension of your steering stabilizer and also check to see if it's hitting anything (you'll probably see wear marks where it's been hitting), repeat the same on the right side.

If you hear a squealing sound when you turn all the way left or right, you have too much steering. Jeeps don't have great turn radius especially with larger tires.

this will help:
http://wayalife.com/content.php?169-TECH-TIP-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Steer-Stop-Adjustment
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I'm running ATX Slabs with 37" tires and no SS.
 
Pressure relief is a higher pitch sound you'll get when you ask for more output from the gear than the pump can supply pressure for. Basically, you short the loop, and as there are no poppets on the JK's steering gear, you're just heating the fluid between the pump and itself. You can cook it pretty fast. On a very popular pickup truck today, 3/4 ton, one ton, and larger, you can warranty a steering pump on the lot by holding the wheel at full stop for about 50 seconds.

Why did I remove the REIDS? It's a loaded question. At some point in my build, I got to the point where Beast wasn't handling as great on road as it was off road. Some combination of REID knuckles relocating the tie rod, my steering stabilizer having to be mounted in the most jenk positions possible with the tie rod raised (it's not trivial to get a stabilizer mounted without binding at some point in articulation when using REIDS by the way), and full Synergy linkages has been causing me nothing but grief at lower speeds on road. Sticky binding steering, pulls, it was heinous. It didn't matter what caster I had, I had almost no return to center with the REIDS and Synergy links everywhere. I think I reached the point where I got sick and tired of trying to figure out what the culprit was (I realized it was a combination of everything actually), and changed back linkages to stock with a RHD link, and stock knuckles. Drive's much better at 6 deg caster now. I'm not saying everyone should ditch their aftermarket stuff, I'm just saying I bought into the hype of needing aftermarket everything, and now I'm pulling back hard the other direction.

I think I'm going to have to get longer bolts. The stock ones seem to make contact with only a few threads in before I'm putting the pump into relief without them at all. I'd feel better with more meat in there. Does anyone think they are something stronger than a grade 10.9 with a nut welded on them? Thanks for the help thus far.
 
T&E there are a couple of things, but basically your worry is hitting the tire (arms, frame, wheel well, anything really), and more importantly your CV shafts or U-joints. I won't speak to the U-joints, guys here know a ton more about their limits than me. On my CV shafts, you can turn until just before the bell hits the shaft. If it hits, you've gone too far, and will eventually damage the shaft under power. In in ideal world, you set them to turn as far as they can before the bell hits without the orange boot on, then re-install the boot.
 
Buster3479 said:
Does anyone think they are something stronger than a grade 10.9 with a nut welded on them? Thanks for the help thus far.
Click to expand...

I don't think they are stronger than grade 10.9, if I remember correctly stock bolts are 3/8-24 x 1 1/4"

I bought a couple thinking the stock bolt would be too short after adding the lock washers but I over guessed on length so I ended up using the stock bolts anyway
 
Thanks. I haven't checked the thread yet, if they are 3/8" they are probably grade 8 stuff I can pick up at the local hardware. I'll post back what they end up being.
 
Buster3479 said:
Why did I remove the REIDS? It's a loaded question. At some point in my build, I got to the point where Beast wasn't handling as great on road as it was off road. Some combination of REID knuckles relocating the tie rod, my steering stabilizer having to be mounted in the most jenk positions possible with the tie rod raised (it's not trivial to get a stabilizer mounted without binding at some point in articulation when using REIDS by the way), and full Synergy linkages has been causing me nothing but grief at lower speeds on road. Sticky binding steering, pulls, it was heinous. It didn't matter what caster I had, I had almost no return to center with the REIDS and Synergy links everywhere. I think I reached the point where I got sick and tired of trying to figure out what the culprit was (I realized it was a combination of everything actually), and changed back linkages to stock with a RHD link, and stock knuckles. Drive's much better at 6 deg caster now. I'm not saying everyone should ditch their aftermarket stuff, I'm just saying I bought into the hype of needing aftermarket everything, and now I'm pulling back hard the other direction.
Click to expand...

Thats odd. I have the PR4 Unl setup. I have the Synergy HD tie rod,Synergy drag link. 6 degrees of caster. Mine returns to center. You may want to check your toe in. Should be around 20 degrees in total (10 degrees per side). I have the Fox ATS steering stabilizer. Drilled a 1/2 inch hole on the Synergy weld on front TB bracket right where the SS is level across the tie rod. Drives great.



Good luck with your build
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom