Steering box replacement on 2009 JK

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I just replaced the Wheel bearing assemblies, the u-joints and the ball joints and I still have a cluck in the front end I can't identify. I believe it's related to the leaking steering gear box and that the whole gear box needs to be replaced.

Prices vary from re-manufactured to new and get pricey. I'm also curious is I should add a sector shaft brace?

I don't wheel or crawl or mud, but I camp a lot and see a lot of logging road.

There's a place near here that does transmission and front end work that I trust, I plan to have to them an inspection on the work I just did and find other problems, causes for the mysterious clunks\knuckle sounds I can feel.

Do you have advice on gear boxes, success or failure stories? Is this something a lay mechanic like myself should attempt or best left to pros?

Thx for your feedback!
 
Describe the situations when you hear the clunk..
A steering box wouldn't normally cause a clunk.. as they go you get just get play in the wheel..
Low fluid will just be noisy,etc..

The box is fairly easy to replace (pitman arm puller really helps) but I'd keep looking to see what else you find before going down the box replacement..
I've never had good luck with "reman" boxes as they typically are little more than a seal/paint job.. and new ain't cheap at all..
 
Did you check the joint connection where the steering column bolts to the steering box?....I had a little bit of play in that area that sounded like a clunk when you turned the steering wheel back and forth....
 
I bet either your frame side (or axle side) trackbar mount hole is wallowed out from driving with a loose bolt.
 
I'm not inclined to tackle this one with other obligations. The mechanic says he wouldn't\won't replace seals and recommends replacing unit. Plus, I have a leak where the intake meets the head, it bubbles coolant, so they need to do that work anyway. They think it might involve removing the timing chain cover etc.

In terms of a re manufactured steering box, they all have a disclaimer that the warranty doesn't cover off road use, therefore a 4x4 wouldn't qualify as it is inherently off road.

In terms of brands, AutoZone has a Duralast for $264 with a 20% discount which looks as good as any to me. I bought my MOOG from them and glad I did. The physical location is close to me for the core return and the mgr is easy to work with.

http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...-steering-gear-power-steering-/453701_0_6207/



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I'm not inclined to tackle this one with other obligations. The mechanic says he wouldn't\won't replace seals and recommends replacing unit. Plus, I have a leak where the intake meets the head, it bubbles coolant, so they need to do that work anyway. They think it might involve removing the timing chain cover etc.

In terms of a re manufactured steering box, they all have a disclaimer that the warranty doesn't cover off road use, therefore a 4x4 wouldn't qualify as it is inherently off road.

In terms of brands, AutoZone has a Duralast for $264 with a 20% discount which looks as good as any to me. I bought my MOOG from them and glad I did. The physical location is close to me for the core return and the mgr is easy to work with.

http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...-steering-gear-power-steering-/453701_0_6207/



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But it sounds like you still don't know what's causing the clunk, correct?
 
Well now that you ask . . . . :D

I know of two possibilities since yesterday.

1) the exhaust pipes come down and join in to one, and there is a brace under that area. Since the muffle shop did replacement work, this pipe assembly touches the brace and makes a damned annoying racket when idling. I can pry it up to stop it, but it isn't a long term fix. One possibility is that when I'm speeding up or down and torquing, those pipes hit the brace making a clunky clunk clunk. One fix would be to add nuts (shims) to the bolts of the brace and lower it slightly.

2) the second possibility is the tie rod end sleeve is not tight. On the rack yesterday, the mechanic grabbed the tie rod end and was able to wiggle it stating "this shouldn't be able to move".

Last year I let Firestone do a front end alignment and they ruined the sleeve, so I bought a new sleeve and they completed the work. I surmise that either the parts has become defective or just needs to be tightened down again like someone means business.

In either case I'm taking my rig back to those respective shops for corrective actions. Hopefully those things corrected plus the several hundreds of dollars in other work will remedy.



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Well now that you ask . . . . :D

I know of two possibilities since yesterday.

1) the exhaust pipes come down and join in to one, and there is a brace under that area. Since the muffle shop did replacement work, this pipe assembly touches the brace and makes a damned annoying racket when idling. I can pry it up to stop it, but it isn't a long term fix. One possibility is that when I'm speeding up or down and torquing, those pipes hit the brace making a clunky clunk clunk. One fix would be to add nuts (shims) to the bolts of the brace and lower it slightly.

2) the second possibility is the tie rod end sleeve is not tight. On the rack yesterday, the mechanic grabbed the tie rod end and was able to wiggle it stating "this shouldn't be able to move".

Last year I let Firestone do a front end alignment and they ruined the sleeve, so I bought a new sleeve and they completed the work. I surmise that either the parts has become defective or just needs to be tightened down again like someone means business.

In either case I'm taking my rig back to those respective shops for corrective actions. Hopefully those things corrected plus the several hundreds of dollars in other work will remedy.



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Good deal.
 
Also, last year I had Firestone do a front end alignment and they mangled the tie rod end adjusting sleeve, so I bought a new one had them use. This week while on the rack at another shop, they reached up and wiggle wiggle wiggle the tie rod and and said "that shouldn't be like that".

Ok fine, I presume that the sleeve needs to be re tightened if it isn't buggered somehow by driving with the slack in it. That might account for some of the knuckly sounds I've been chasing.
 
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