Stall when driving but no dash lights.

B

bubbad323

Member
I can’t catch a break with this jeep. Finally solved a cylinder 3 misfire by changing the fuel injector.

Today, took a drive to Home Depot and the jeep just stalled. I felt it and stepped on the gas and the engine just died out. But not one light on the dash. Nothing. I pulled over to the side of the road. Put in park and restarted and she fired right up. I made to Home Depot and back home no issues. Have no idea what happened.

Tested my alternator and battery and both seem to be fine. Battery connections are tight. I’m at a loss for what could have caused this.

I’m concerned Becusee I do a lot of highway driving and the last thing I need is this to happen when I’m heading to work etc. Has this happened to anyone else? If so, what did you find to be the issue?
 
when I did the tune-up on the 2015 jku, I changed all the injectors when one tested iffy.
how many miles?
you could run injector cleaner and see if it helps.
 
jeeeep said:
when I did the tune-up on the 2015 jku, I changed all the injectors when one tested iffy.
how many miles?
you could run injector cleaner and see if it helps.
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Thanks. I just added a bottle. The part of me that says do things the right way was thinking to change all injectors. Since one went then the others could be next. But my wallet wasn’t in agreement. lol. If this keeps happening then I’ll have no choice and will need to replace the others. It wasn’t a hard job actually and I’m sure the second time around would be quicker. It’s just odd that the jeep died out and not ONE light illuminated on the dash.
 
Same thing happened to me. Engine died and would start right up. Then it began not cranking until I tried a few times. Problem was bad alternator, bad battery and battery terminals not installed correctly.

Battery & alternator tests can’t always be trusted. Batteries & alternators often will test good when they’re on their last legs. If the battery is swollen, replace it.

The factory battery terminals are finicky. They have to be pushed all the way down on the posts before tightening or you won’t get a good connection. I found this out the hard way.
 
Tha
GP NOIR said:
Same thing happened to me. Engine died and would start right up. Then it began not cranking until I tried a few times. Problem was bad alternator, bad battery and battery terminals not installed correctly.

Battery & alternator tests can’t always be trusted. Batteries & alternators often will test good when they’re on their last legs. If the battery is swollen, replace it.

The factory battery terminals are finicky. They have to be pushed all the way down on the posts before tightening or you won’t get a good connection. I found this out the hard way.
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Thanks. These battery terminals are the worst. I’ve never been able to get a tight connection without using a piece of a shim. Battery is 2 plus years old so I’ll have to keep an eye on it. The alternator is original so 10 years and 130k miles on that.
 
bubbad323 said:
Happened again. This time a code was thrown for the crankshaft position sensor. So have Mopar one on the way. With all the issues I’ve had lately back to back, I’m starting to look for a hidden camera and Alan Funt. Yeah aging myself but some of you will get it. Lol
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Definitely crank position sensor. Had the same issue on my 2015 with no CEL or code. Replaced the sensor and no issues since. The nice thing is it's super easy to replace. One thing you should do is spray a little wd40 on the connector before disconnecting it. This will help prevent breaking the lock.
 
JeepFan said:
Definitely crank position sensor. Had the same issue on my 2015 with no CEL or code. Replaced the sensor and no issues since. The nice thing is it's super easy to replace. One thing you should do is spray a little wd40 on the connector before disconnecting it. This will help prevent breaking the lock.
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Yeah. Funny thing is I replaced this about 30k miles ago as part of a number of things I serviced at 100k miles. It was precautionary. But I used a sensor from auto zone. From what I’ve heard others say, sensors are really finicky so it’s best to go with Mopar. Anything I do going forward is Mopar.
 
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