Special questions 09 Rubi front end

JEEPnGEO

JEEPnGEO

New member
I have NEVER seen in any detail a BONE STOCK front end of a 09 Rubicon I know that they all should be the same so if that is true I still haven't seen a BONE STOCK JK Rubicon front end. :D

I bought my Jeep and someone already did some work to it so I want to pick up where they left off. Except I don't know what they left off or on.:bleh:

Here is a whole slew of pictures with notes as to what and why and can I.... These pictures were taken after I installed the TeraFlex springs I bought off of RK Racing. The jeep was running a 2.5 inch TeraFlex Budget boost with 9550 TF shocks.

Who ever put on the budget boost I still have the drop breakline adaptors, shocks, swaybar ends, that they put on. If you look up my other post to RK Racing you will see the height difference between the two. Since I did the spring swap and gained 2 more inches so nor I am about 4.5 inches above stock (I believe) I need to make up the delta. Longer track bar, upper lower CAs, I would like to have stiffer sway bar links if that would make the difference.

Can ya-all tell me what I need (in order) so I can buy a little at a time and swap parts out. I defiantly need break lines sooner than later. I can't go jeepin again with out them. Almost no play. After that I would like to source an adjustable track bar. I will someday upgrade to 37's and go no bigger. I want this to fit in my garage. 37's and this lift will be my limit.

Thanks in advance and PLEASE HELP.
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Based on your pics, your swaybar links are definitely too short as your swaybars should typically sit level with the ground.

Are you running both the budget boost coil spacers as well as the 2.5" springs? If so, that's quite a bit of lift and explains why your links are short.
 
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You need gussets on the "c"s and bump stops too, I think I would lose the drop bracket on the frame end of the track bar and do the EVO flip kit if you have 4" of lift, and longer sway bar links for sure
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1381541070.284370.jpg
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1381541449.401930.jpg
 
No your pitman arm is not bent, thats how it sits.

Don't use a drop pitman arm they are more trouble than they are worth, use a drag link flip kit, it will accomplish the same thing

You need longer links, may I suggest a set of adjustable links? I think Overlander may be selling his old ones.

You have a steering stabalizer flip kit which relocates your track bar as well as relocating the steering shock up above the tie rod instead of below it.


Hope I covered it all.
 
Iswitched from budget boost to all spring .the springs gave me 2 more inches than the budget boost. Thats why I hace to pkay catch up on every thing else.

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The track bar attachment on the frame side is not stock. That is an aftermarket bracket lower the trackbar so it remains parallel with the drag link.

A flip kit will let you dump this bracket and move the drag link from below the knuckle on the passenger side to the top. Helps with bump-steer and drive ability. Not needed until 3.5"+ lift.

I agree, sway bar end links are too short.

The unused hole you point out in the axle side of the track bar is ok. These "extra" holes are for centering your axle side to side when using a fixed length track bar. When using an adjustable trackbar, won't matter too terribly much.

And yes, TWO cats. You can thank your forum buddys from Kalifornia and the federal government for that ! (It doesn't rob much, if any at all, power. :D


Sent from a a few tin cans and some string.
 
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bl17z90 said:
No your pitman arm is not bent, thats how it sits.

Don't use a drop pitman arm they are more trouble than they are worth, use a drag link flip kit, it will accomplish the same thing

You need longer links, may I suggest a set of adjustable links? I think Overlander may be selling his old ones.

You have a steering stabalizer flip kit which relocates your track bar as well as relocating the steering shock up above the tie rod instead of below it.


Hope I covered it all.
Click to expand...

Yes. Great info. Question on the pitman flip. If I get another one. I saw that the ball joint is tapered. So if I drilled out the hole on the knuckle. what happens to the ball joint?

Sorry if I sound a little confused. Don't really know how to explain it.
 
Yes they are JKS but are for 2.5" of lift, you would need longer ones that look like these but adjustable
 
JEEPnGEO said:
Yes. Great info. Question on the pitman flip. If I get another one. I saw that the ball joint is tapered. So if I drilled out the hole on the knuckle. what happens to the ball joint?

Sorry if I sound a little confused. Don't really know how to explain it.
Click to expand...

You don't flip the pitman arm. Pitman arm remains tightly connected to your steering box.

You are "flipping" the drag link. The drag link, on a stock Jeep is connected under the passenger side knuckle and extends up to the drivers side of the jeep making a direct connection the pitman arm which is bolted directly to the steering box. As you follow the draglink from the passenger side knuckle to the pitman arm and steering box, you will find an adjustable "turnbuckle." It is by adjusting this turn buckle that you center your steering wheel.

Moving back down the draglink from the pitman arm to the passenger side of the knuckle, you will see where it connects underneath the knuckle. In a "flip kit" you are moving/relocating the drag link from connecting to the underside to connecting to the top of the knuckle. The knuckle is drilled out and a special metal sleeve is snugly inserted. A replacement "long" end of the drag-link is threaded back in to the "turn buckle" up towards the driver side and the joint end inserted into the top of the knuckle in the hole that was drilled out; where you inserted the metal sleeve.

Before you begin, you of course have to remove/detach the draglink from the passenger side knuckle. You do NOT have to detach the pitman arm from the steering box or draglink from the pitman arm. You WILL pretty much destroy the joint upon removal. To my knowledge, every manufacturer's "flip kit" comes with a replacement "long side" complete with new end joint. At least my AEV "flip kit" did.
I was ill at ease drilling out the knuckle. I've solo installed multiple lift kits now, but they've been bolt on and did not require drilling...so I was more than nervous drilling the knuckle. My Jeep IS my daily driver.

That being said, drilling the knuckle was the easiest part!! Mine called to be drilled out 7/8th inch. Using a standard drill bit is NOT recommended IMO. I purchased what is called a "step bit." They come in various size ranges and are used for drilling a hole/enlarging a hole. They have "steps" like a set of stairs and as you go from one step to the next, the hole gets bigger. This is all fine and good; however, you DO NOT want to make the hole too big or you are in a mell of a hess!!!!

So, only use a step bit with max hole size of 7/8ths inch. Once you start drilling, you can simple drill all the way through with confidence. Make sure you have WD-40, liquid wrench, etc to lubricate as you drill, makes it faster and easier.

It literally took less than 5 minutes to drill mine out. My nervousness of screwing up my Jeep was all for naught.

This was truly one of the easiest parts of the overall install.

Here is a photo of a step bit: ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1381691591.083337.jpg


Sent from a a few tin cans and some string.
 
Oh, as for the anti-sway bar end links, a thicker than stock unit won't really change any handling characteristics. It is the bar itself that stretches from driver to passenger side that limits/controls body roll. Using longer or shorter end links can/will change how the bar controls sway. The bushing type where the link connects to the axle and the bar can make some difference. On a stock or lifted jeep I don't think it is hugely relevant. Sports car/auto cross? probably so. I suggest you go with a link that brings your swaybar as close to the stock position as possible, which I believe is parallel to the ground; without interfering/rubbing with any other components.


Sent from a a few tin cans and some string.
 
CerOf said:
You don't flip the pitman arm. Pitman arm remains tightly connected to your steering box.

You are "flipping" the drag link. The drag link, on a stock Jeep is connected under the passenger side knuckle and extends up to the drivers side of the jeep making a direct connection the pitman arm which is bolted directly to the steering box. As you follow the draglink from the passenger side knuckle to the pitman arm and steering box, you will find an adjustable "turnbuckle." It is by adjusting this turn buckle that you center your steering wheel.

Moving back down the draglink from the pitman arm to the passenger side of the knuckle, you will see where it connects underneath the knuckle. In a "flip kit" you are moving/relocating the drag link from connecting to the underside to connecting to the top of the knuckle. The knuckle is drilled out and a special metal sleeve is snugly inserted. A replacement "long" end of the drag-link is threaded back in to the "turn buckle" up towards the driver side and the joint end inserted into the top of the knuckle in the hole that was drilled out; where you inserted the metal sleeve.

Before you begin, you of course have to remove/detach the draglink from the passenger side knuckle. You do NOT have to detach the pitman arm from the steering box or draglink from the pitman arm. You WILL pretty much destroy the joint upon removal. To my knowledge, every manufacturer's "flip kit" comes with a replacement "long side" complete with new end joint. At least my AEV "flip kit" did.
I was ill at ease drilling out the knuckle. I've solo installed multiple lift kits now, but they've been bolt on and did not require drilling...so I was more than nervous drilling the knuckle. My Jeep IS my daily driver.

That being said, drilling the knuckle was the easiest part!! Mine called to be drilled out 7/8th inch. Using a standard drill bit is NOT recommended IMO. I purchased what is called a "step bit." They come in various size ranges and are used for drilling a hole/enlarging a hole. They have "steps" like a set of stairs and as you go from one step to the next, the hole gets bigger. This is all fine and good; however, you DO NOT want to make the hole too big or you are in a mell of a hess!!!!

So, only use a step bit with max hole size of 7/8ths inch. Once you start drilling, you can simple drill all the way through with confidence. Make sure you have WD-40, liquid wrench, etc to lubricate as you drill, makes it faster and easier.

It literally took less than 5 minutes to drill mine out. My nervousness of screwing up my Jeep was all for naught.

This was truly one of the easiest parts of the overall install.

Here is a photo of a step bit: View attachment 52394


Sent from a a few tin cans and some string.
Click to expand...


You FREAKEN ROCK.. That was my fear too. Mine is a daily driver and I was thinking the hole had an angle to it from bottom to the top. How was I supposed to get the angle the other way. If it was up to me I would use the same bar just give me the little shim and the step bit and let me go to town. Got to do this stuff on a budget.. I found a website where I can buy my own parts and make my own links.. I just don't have that special bushing.

Thank you for explaining that to me.
 
CerOf said:
Oh, as for the anti-sway bar end links, a thicker than stock unit won't really change any handling characteristics. It is the bar itself that stretches from driver to passenger side that limits/controls body roll. Using longer or shorter end links can/will change how the bar controls sway. The bushing type where the link connects to the axle and the bar can make some difference. On a stock or lifted jeep I don't think it is hugely relevant. Sports car/auto cross? probably so. I suggest you go with a link that brings your swaybar as close to the stock position as possible, which I believe is parallel to the ground; without interfering/rubbing with any other components.


Sent from a a few tin cans and some string.
Click to expand...


I was thinking it was either one or the other. When I am driving now the bar is drooping 2.5 to 3 inches easy. I figured that the bars work against something to keep all that weight upright. I guess it will come back when I get the longer links.

Question on the links.. If I get 4" adjustable links are they adjusted all the way in and 4" longer at that point or do they come 1/2 way adjusted out then measured for 4" longer? That way you can go in or out if you needed to. If they came the first way then they can't be adjusted inward incase they were a little to long. Just wondering? I like these. I am hunting down priced now...

Thanks again.
 
I honestly don't know as I've never run a set of adjustable.


Sent from a a few tin cans and some string.
 
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