SNOBALL - Northeast build

JohnnyD

New member
What's up Wayalifers!! Been here for a while and really enjoy the forum. The experience here has been very valuable to me and I appreciate it.

I thought I would share my newby experience building up my JKR with others, I have found the build threads very helpful and hope I can contribute.

So the name...don't laugh, being from the NorthEast, winter was the first season I had with my Jeep. My daughter and I were out trouncing in the snow and it just came to us.

2014 JKR Bright White

At the dealer!!!
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First things first: Need to be able to save my ass in a jam, I am usually by myself or with kids when wheeling so...

Front Bumper/Skid and winch: JCR Defender and Warn Zeon 10s
Notes: Bumper/Skid - Do not get the powercoat, IMO a waste of money. Do the work and coat yourself. Easier touch up later on.
Winch - flawless, phenominal, more expensive than most but worth every penny

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Hard top storage: Pic says it all...couple of pulleys, rope and duct taped pool noodles to keep the edges clean....total 20$ Don't really a great photo but you get the point here...

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Then came the LED Headlights and fogs:
Notes - JW Speaker Evo 2 heads and 6145 fogs - provide great light compared to stock, much better visability. I really don't like that the adapters for flicker where not included, for the price should've been included. These have done very well for me, including no issues with freezing up, even out in a blizzard. The fogs controlled by the stock switch.

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Antenna buried in rollbar
Notes: Just placed a trail rated badge over the hole. My first time out wheeling caught the antenna on a tree and it snapped back hard against windshield, not no more. I bought the mopar parts for the connectors and just extended the length of antenna wire with coax and buried up in the roller padding using a ground i made on the rollbar. It works just as well as in the stock position(in my area). You will need to cover the antenna with an insulator like electrical tape to prevent noise bleed from the metal rollbar.

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Stock tweeter tweak!
Notes: I have the Alpine system and could not stand how the front set sounded. I figured out that the stock tweets are crossed at some ungodly high frequency like 12K providing very little midgrange fill sounding very empty. I figured out the model of tweeter and saw the specs are quite capable of handling frequecies down to about 2K, since the crossover is a simple inline capacitor, changed the value of the cap and WHOA damn what a difference. the cap went from something like 3.3uf to 33uf...but you coals also potentially just remove the cap altogether and have the tweet roll off naturally but this has potential for blowing them if you play at high volumes. I have not felt the need to change anything else with the system. To note, I just have the bare bones radio no nav unit but it is a factory amped system. Just for reference...
I also put a little acousta stuff in the sound bar and the sub modules for a little more oomf as the acousta stuff will make the speaker think its in a bigger box. There was a noticeable change in the sound to me.

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Then came the decisions on tires and wheels:
Notes: I wanted 35's but had concerns surrounding rubbing and gearing. The 35's fit just fine off the bat, BUT with substantial rubbing even on small road bumps. I initially went with GY MTR/k's, great looking tire. In my case this was a major mistake, could not get them to balance well enough for a DD. Had three separate shops try, twice road forced, still no good. One of them had 41oz of balance weight!!! So off they came and on went the Toyo Open Country RT, the Toyos are awesome on and off trail, I could not be happier.
Rims: went with ATX Artillery - nice looking and not black, more of a dark gunmetal color, these have held up very well the finish is great at shedding mud/dirt/brake dust.
Gears: Haven't gone here yet...the 4.10's hold their own, I did lose a little gumshin but nothing remotely close to necessitating a change, but it's still in the back of my head. (so is going 37's beause the flats opened the wells sooo much)
I also had to cut my stock rock rails...shorted about 1.5 inches or ....

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Difficult balancing.....
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Rail cut...
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Then flat fenders:
Notes: Just cut the stocks, you will save a ton and (subjectively) look better. I went with bushwacker flats. Good product, install was a little rough, lots of test fitting and some cutting of the wheel well plastic, all in all a well made product. They have taken several good hits on the trail and popped right back.

Adding these eliminated a good amount of rubbing BUT did not eliminate it fully! Be aware I did not add any bumpstop after going 35's as I knew I would be lifting.

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Then backup lights and rear fascia, trampstamp:
Notes: For my uses carrying the spare all the time didn't make sense, so I was looking for a simple clean ass end, enter the EVO Rear Fascia and D rings. I wanted some enhanced backup lighting as well, have lots of little ones in my neighborhood and this was a neccesity, I went with the Rigid flush mount SRM's and really really really hoped there would be enough room with the fascia, and behold all good...but just, double triple check measurements before you cut.

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Pic of where the stock carrier ended up:
Notes: Eliminating the spare from the rear opened up visability a great deal

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Trampstamp with plate lights:
Just enough light to not get pulled over...

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This lead to Daystar Switch panel:
I knew I would be adding more accessories over time so I got the Daystar switch panel and switches. I debated SPOD, Switch Pro's etc...I then decided to do it myself. I wired up all of them from the start, using a new fuse panel in the engine bay, I ran all the powers and two grounds to each all snaked up in wire loom for clealiness. Dont have a lot of pics here..

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Now the fun begins!!

Lift
: RK 2.5" Stock Mod Stage 1 - included the RK RRD shocks (single tube)
Notes: Good very basic lift. Ride is better than stock, eliminated brake dive and takeoff squat. Corners well. Ride can feel stiffer than stock but it is more of a well dampened feeling than stiff per se. The RK instructions could be written better. The rear track bar bracket is a possible concern but I decided to keep it...I debated changing out but...
The components are well made and RK very responsive to a couple of calls I made to them.

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Rock Lights:
Notes: Went with some 5 watt amazon cheapies, the screw in type. Got 12 galvanized L brackets from HD and mounted them in various locations along each side. They work fine, BUT if I were to do it again I would get better quality lights for the long haul, I do not have faith these will last but only time will tell.

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Driveshafts:
Notes: Went with Adams 1310's front and rear. The stock front DS was hitting (crossmember and exhaust roughly at same time due to angle) at full droop after lift was installed. Good quality product and good support. Install went without a hitch.

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Next on the list:

New Control arms - debating several mfg's...but on ride adjustability is a requirement. I do all my work myself and prefer this type of arm, makes so much sense. This will help get all my angles back in line with specs, most likely provide better clearance, but most off all improve the over all drive. All opinions and suggestions welcome and considered...

CAI and exhaust - wouldn't mind a slight power boost, but most of all the growl!!! lol...again, All opinions welcome and considered...
 
Great looking build man! Love seeing two doors still being built especially with such quality parts. As far as Adj. arms goes I've heard nothing but good things about Currie, however I'm running the RK Max Travel with all lowers and just ordered rear uppers. Since you also went the RK route I will throw my :twocents: in and say go with RK. I've enjoyed them and their quality pieces of work. They also just dropped a new Pro-flex Joint which I haven't heard much about them, But it has a new joint at the frame seems interesting how it's designed. Also the you bend it, crack it, break it abuse proof warranty is always nice as well. I'm sure you'll get plenty of advice! Good luck with the build, looks great.
Edit : Also I'm running the Dynomax Rock Crawler Exhaust, not the competition. It goes from behind the headers to the back. I've been very pleased, good sounds and it was the first time dealing with exhaust that didn't piss me off.
 
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Thanks brother....I'm doin my best!

I love this rig and has been such a great thing for me and fam, they enjoy as much as me.

At first wife was like "two door...really?"...my response..."this ain't about you ..." Lol....but in reality it is and it has been great. I've done all the work myself with my wife and kids involved, it's been a blast.

Thanks for the suggestions as well...
 
I'm playing hooky this afternoon to head to a local wheelin spot with a buddy...I am looking to finally get some decent wheelin pics and possibly vids up
 
Not sure where you guys are but there a "go topless" day happening in Moson MA tomorrow. Big jeep gathering, last year had like 700 folks come was very cool

Hoping to see some Wayalifers there
 
So finally got out wheelin...updated pics

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I can feel the bind in the stock suspension

I have the RK stock mod only at this point...
 
Also, full eight arm set on order ...I will hold off on deets til their here....here's a hint I kept the love local!!!!
 
Glad to see more two door love out there! Your build is looking great, I'm digging your mod on the rear EVO fascia :beer: Might have to look into doing the same :thumb: subscribed! Keep it up brotha
 
I hear ya, in the NE corrosion and rust are definitely an issue. I did use Neverwet on the block but really have no idea if it will last in the under hood environ
 
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