Short arm or long arm

TrailBear

New member
I'm still in the planing stages, but I want to do it once and do it right. I want to run 37's on a JKU so I need to go with a 3 to 4 inch lift, I like the set up on rubicat, but I would like to do the install myself. Would I be losing that much if I went short arm? If I go short arm I'm looking at the full traction 3" ultimate.


Don't let fear and common sense hold you back:)
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I have run 37's on short arms in the past and with coil overs and really, you'll be just fine with factory length arms at that height. I say factory length arms because unlike the old TJ, they are far from "short". ChrisB is running just front lower adjustable arms and rear uppers (Enforcer kit) with 37's and coil overs and his JK rides great. Sure, long arms will give you a better ride but, I wouldn't hesitate to go factory length arms again.
 
Ok thanks Eddie, I do want to run the evo bolt on coil overs, I like to full traction kit because it has all four adjustable arms, is that a option with the evo enforcer kit?


Don't let fear and common sense hold you back:)
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Ok thanks Eddie, I do want to run the evo bolt on coil overs, I like to full traction kit because it has all four adjustable arms, is that a option with the evo enforcer kit?


Don't let fear and common sense hold you back:)
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I have run the FT Ultimate kit and liked it a lot. It's made really well and very beefy. I especially like the fact that it now comes with Clevite bushings at the frame joints and still has FK rod ends at the axle. The Enforcer kit does not come with all around links, just what you really need but, its also more affordable.
 
FYI-- the Enforcer kit does not come with rear uppers. Or at least it didn't. :)
 
FYI-- the Enforcer kit does not come with rear uppers. Or at least it didn't. :)

This is correct. I believe EVO recommends that you just get Currie rear uppers as they are made about as good as they would have.
 
I'm running the full traction ultimate short arm kit and the Evo bolt on coilovers and 37s. I'm at about a 4" height.
Been flexing it out with no issues. The lower arms are toughest I've seen. And you get the beefed up front and rear track bars. The only thing you need to anticipate is that the rear lower control arm clevite on the frame mount will wear out depending on how many times and how hard you flex it. Not a big deal. The bushing easily change out. I think they are around $20-25 each. Haven't had any wear issues on the fronts or uppers.
 
This is correct. I believe EVO recommends that you just get Currie rear uppers as they are made about as good as they would have.

Recommended but not needed on the 4 door even with an after market driveshafts. I'm running all factory arms with the exception on the Evo front lowers.

I wouldn't run any arm other than one built with Johnny joints. It's the only joint proven to hold up against the flex of coilovers
 
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Thanks for the info guys, here's another question, what kits better curries 4" or the full traction ultimate. I can get the currie with the rear anti rock sway bar for the same price, but the full traction comes with the heavy duty track bar front and rear.


Don't let fear and common sense hold you back:)
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Thanks for the info guys, here's another question, what kits better curries 4" or the full traction ultimate. I can get the currie with the rear anti rock sway bar for the same price, but the full traction comes with the heavy duty track bar front and rear.


Don't let fear and common sense hold you back:)
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I really like the factory sway bars and not a big fan of the Antirock. I personally would go with heavy duty track bars over it but would rather run an EVO drag link flip/track bar relocation kit over both. The Currie control arms are nice as they come with Johnny Joints on both ends but, I don't like the dual rate coils the kit comes with.
 
I'm following this thread intently because I'm looking to do a similar build. Not to hijack the thread but if I want to run 35" tires would the only difference be the lift of the short arm kit?
 
I'm following this thread intently because I'm looking to do a similar build. Not to hijack the thread but if I want to run 35" tires would the only difference be the lift of the short arm kit?

With 35" tires, you only need to be lifted about 3". You don't really even need to replace your control arms but, having them will allow you to dial in your suspension, provide a better ride and depending on what kit you go with, offer more bind free flex.
 
Gotcha.
So getting all 8 arms and adjustable track bars front and rear will allow me to dial in the ride to near factory settings.
 
Gotcha.
So getting all 8 arms and adjustable track bars front and rear will allow me to dial in the ride to near factory settings.

What they would allow you to do is set your axles back where they should be, recenter them under your Jeep, set your pinion angle in the rear and set your caster up front. What they will not be able to do is correct the geometry change caused by the lift. But, so long as you're only lifting up to 4", you will be fine with that. Above 4"-up and a long arm kit will be nice to have to correct your geometry and improve your ride.
 
Going in finally for the bolt on coil overs, bumps, flip kit etc, in two weeks. Currently running the Teraflex front adjustable lowers and rear uppers with their 4" lift. Any thoughts on if I should swap with the currie control arms while I'm at it due to the increased flex?
Thanks


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Going in finally for the bolt on coil overs, bumps, flip kit etc, in two weeks. Currently running the Teraflex front adjustable lowers and rear uppers with their 4" lift. Any thoughts on if I should swap with the currie control arms while I'm at it due to the increased flex?
Thanks


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The rear uppers will fail for sure and I would replace them. The fronts have much bigger joints and will probably last for a while. If budget is tight, I would wait on these. If you can afford to do the swap, I would and sell your TF arms while they're still in good shape.
 
The rear uppers will fail for sure and I would replace them. The fronts have much bigger joints and will probably last for a while. If budget is tight, I would wait on these. If you can afford to do the swap, I would and sell your TF arms while they're still in good shape.

Sounds like a plan.
Thanks Russ


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Russ let me know when your gonna sell your stuff, I may be interested in some of it:)

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Will do. When's the next mud run?


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My jeep is still muddy.... if it would stop raining every Friday I would set something up:)

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