Rigid + flicker?

Holeshot

Holeshot

Banned
I just installed my dually's in my bumper, wired to my OEM fog harness.

When I turn them off, I have a low paced flicker for 30sec to 1 min. Could it be because of the computer that manage the lights?

Anyone else had this happen?
 
The computer theory is possible. There might be some sort of resistor or capacitor that bleeds out after you turn off the power.

Mine are wired right to the battery so I don't have that problem.

You might unplug them and use a voltmeter to measure the DC power coming out of the Jeep plug after you turn them off. Probably need a helper for that.


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Our fogs are weird into the existing wiring from the stock fog lights. We've never had an issue with any sort of flicker. Maybe check your wiring to make sure you're grounded properly?
 
Holeshot said:
I just installed my dually's in my bumper, wired to my OEM fog harness.

When I turn them off, I have a low paced flicker for 30sec to 1 min. Could it be because of the computer that manage the lights?

Anyone else had this happen?
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I have seen this before. Some have replaced the lamps and the new set worked, while others continue to have the issue. Best way is to power them directly to the battery and hook the relay to the factory wiring so they can be triggered by the oem switch if you don't have a switch panel. Do some more research....I have seen this issue posted several times here and elsewhere many times.:beer:
 
the bad ground theory can't apply here, I'm directly plugued to the oem harness, both power and ground wires. welded and covered properly (I'm a mecanic )

Anyway, its not something that annoys me but, If there was something I could do I would fix it. If not, it will probably stay just like that.
 
Holeshot said:
the bad ground theory can't apply here, I'm directly plugued to the oem harness, both power and ground wires. welded and covered properly (I'm a mecanic )

Anyway, its not something that annoys me but, If there was something I could do I would fix it. If not, it will probably stay just like that.
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I have no idea then. We did the exact same thing to ours that you did to yours and we've got no problems so far. Good luck to ya, I hope you get it fixed up soon
 
Is it both lights that flicker or just one? I have installed dually's on 4 different vehicles and all of them work great with no flickering when turned off. 3 of them were wired into the factory harness using the factory fog light switch.
 
Dixon4x4 said:
Is it both lights that flicker or just one? I have installed dually's on 4 different vehicles and all of them work great with no flickering when turned off. 3 of them were wired into the factory harness using the factory fog light switch.
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Both flicker, and not at the same time.. I'll take a video to show you. It's really weird.
 
It's because the aftermarket lights drawing different current from the stock ones. I would suggest wiring them on your own and not using the stock.
 
TheDuff and OverlanderJK could be right.
Maybe something like this? Basically a small capacitor to not piss off canbus

My :twocents:
calculations of watts/volts/amps. It could be a few things. Wire size maybe to small or wrong relay size (OEM) my need after market. or a grounding issue. You would be better off running a hot wire from power source and use the switch leg from the OEM switch. For any after market light I use #12 awg wire.

Looking at the specs below my theory maybe wrong but something to look at :twocents:


Here are the Dually D2s specs (per light)….
· 50,000+ hour lifespan
· 9-36V
· Reverse polarity protection
· Available in driving or wide beam optics
· IP68 certified
· Unbreakable polycarbonate lens
· A360 High purity aluminum cast housing
· Durable UV3800 polyester powder coat
· Sealed deutsch connector
· Over/under voltage protection
· Goretex breather
· Operating temp -40~+145 deg F
· MIL810-STDG vibration certified
· ASTMB117 salt/fog certified
· ROHS Compliant
· Electrically protected against RFI/EMC interference
· Integrated thermal management system
· Updated hybrid patented optic system
· Patented specter optics (pat.#7,438,477)
· 1.25 pounds
· 28 watts
· Amp draw 1.9
· 2600 lumens
 
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I've seen a lot of people posting around with this issue. Some have bought small caps from electronics store and soldered it in. I figured the canbus canceller would just be easier. Of course a relay with battery power will fix it also. Just extra wire to run, especially when the factory stuff should run these lights with no effort.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
#12 is way too big for light power :eek:

A standart car wiring harness for headlights use 16 AWG wires or even 18.

Mine are dually's, not D2's. So they draw a very little current compared to EOM fogs.

http://www.rigidindustries.com/Dually-LED-Light-Spot-p/dually-sp.htm

As the rigid site mention, they draw 1.45 amps per light. At this current draw, we could use 18 AWG without any problem, and if I'm right, the wires in the factory fog harness are 14 or 16, which is big enough.

My jk's a 2012 with only 17 000kms on it, so I guess the ground is good.

www.alldataonline.com

The front fog lamps have a path to ground at all times through their connection to the engine compartment wire harness. The engine compartment wire harness has takeouts with eyelet terminals that are secured by nuts to ground studs on the front end sheet metal within the engine compartment. The Steering Control Module (SCM) monitors a hard wired multiplex input from the left multi-function switch to determine whether the fog lamps are selected, then sends an electronic front fog lamp switch status message to the EMIC over the Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus and the EMIC relays an electronic front fog lamp request message to the TIPM over the CAN data bus.
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The use of a capacitor on the fog would create a delay when I turn them off, and honestly, would't do anything. Usualy, capacitors are used when flicker happen while the light is on, to prevent voltage fluctuation to flicker the light, not while it is off with or without engine running.

The fact that they flicker, IMHO, is because the module that manage the fog lights still sends current in the harness after they've been turned off, and probably because it already has a capacitor in the module, and discharge in the fogs for 30sec to 1 min after they've been turned off.

my :twocents:

:standing wave:
 
Holeshot said:
#12 is way too big for light power :eek:

A standart car wiring harness for headlights use 16 AWG wires or even 18.

Mine are dually's, not D2's. So they draw a very little current compared to EOM fogs.

http://www.rigidindustries.com/Dually-LED-Light-Spot-p/dually-sp.htm

As the rigid site mention, they draw 1.45 amps per light. At this current draw, we could use 18 AWG without any problem, and if I'm right, the wires in the factory fog harness are 14 or 16, which is big enough.

My jk's a 2012 with only 17 000kms on it, so I guess the ground is good.



The use of a capacitor on the fog would create a delay when I turn them off, and honestly, would't do anything. Usualy, capacitors are used when flicker happen while the light is on, to prevent voltage fluctuation to flicker the light, not while it is off with or without engine running.

The fact that they flicker, IMHO, is because the module that manage the fog lights still sends current in the harness after they've been turned off, and probably because it already has a capacitor in the module, and discharge in the fogs for 30sec to 1 min after they've been turned off.

my :twocents:

:standing wave:
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Sounds like you got it covered.. Good luck!!
Looking at the specs below my theory maybe wrong but something to look at
 
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It's not something that botter me anyway.. I was just curious to know if it was normal or common for others.
 
Holeshot said:
It's not something that botter me anyway.. I was just curious to know if it was normal or common for others.
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The use of a capacitor on the fog would create a delay when I turn them off, I am still thinking :thinking: why do they want them to stay on after they are turned off?:thinking::idontknow:

FYI: For myself I use #12 awg wire, I have always did over kill, reasons why I may at the time use the wire for light but sometime I end up using for some other device. I try to fish all my wires thru the frame. So I go bigger just in case there needed for something else then I don't need to re-pull wires or even add more light devices etc....:idontknow:
 
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gtony12 said:
The use of a capacitor on the fog would create a delay when I turn them off, I am still thinking :thinking: why do they want them to stay on after they are turned off?:thinking::idontknow:

FYI: For myself I use #12 awg wire, I have always did over kill, reasons why I may at the time use the wire for light but sometime I end up using for some other device. I try to fish all my wires thru the frame. So I go bigger just in case there needed for something else then I don't need to re-pull wires or even add more light devices etc....:idontknow:
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The capacitor, if there's one in the module that controls the fogs, would be used for the same reason some people add one in-line with the headlight wiring, to prevent flicker. But since LED's don't work the same way as halogen, I guess this might be the reason :thinking: I should test that out someday.

The use of 12 AWG sure is overkill, but not necessary, 14 is big enough to run 100w halogens or even bigger. Anyways, as long as it works.. ;)
 
here's a short vid that shows the flicker.. I know I should have filmed a little longer lol



[video]http://s53.beta.photobucket.com/user/holeshot753/media/video-2013-02-26-17-15-18_zpsb8f074f6.mp4.html[/video]
 
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