Rear Axles and Ring/Pinion Recommendations for a Non-Rubicon D44 Upgrade

E

El Burro

Member
Hey gang,

Trying to avoid some tears here, or at least pay once for a change. In the process of assembling parts for a rear axle upgrade to go along with a Dana Ultimate 44 front end, and was looking for suggestions on who makes the best, or at least highly recommended, rear components. Looking at Revolution, Ten Factory, Nitro, Spicer, Yukon, etc.

Replacing ring/pinion as well, along with new Eaton lockers. Would anyone suggest going to a larger spline count as well?

Input appreciated! Thanks.
 
I run Yukon gears and Ten Factory shafts. I haven’t had any problems with either.

Your spline count options will depend on the locker. Does Eaton offer a 35 spline option?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:
I’ve run both Yukon and Revolution. Both have great warranties. Can’t go wrong with either.

Are you going to add a locker to the rear when you do?


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
fiend said:
I run Yukon gears and Ten Factory shafts. I haven’t had any problems with either.

Your spline count options will depend on the locker. Does Eaton offer a 35 spline option?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Looks like Eaton is pretty much 30 spline across all the options for D44... ARB would go 35. Thanks for the recommendation!
 
I ran Yukon and revolution. I feel as tho I have had a more positive experience with the revolutions. I also run their rear shafts.
 
Thanks again for the feedback!

Just added up the costs at the shop, and decided to just go with Ultimate 60’s front/rear. It was roughly $6k more, not including rims, but doing everything once seemed to make the most sense.

What put me over the top was looking at a rig they had on the lift with a Rubicon D44 housing that was trussed, gusseted, and sleeved and was STILL bent. They were swapping a Currie RockJock 60 and I could just hear Eddie’s voice saying you should have just gone with Ultimate 60’s and been done with it.

I’ll let you fellas know how it turns out.
 
El Burro said:
Just added up the costs at the shop, and decided to just go with Ultimate 60’s front/rear. It was roughly $6k more, not including rims, but doing everything once seemed to make the most sense.

What put me over the top was looking at a rig they had on the lift with a Rubicon D44 housing that was trussed, gusseted, and sleeved and was STILL bent. They were swapping a Currie RockJock 60 and I could just hear Eddie’s voice saying you should have just gone with Ultimate 60’s and been done with it.

I’ll let you fellas know how it turns out.
Click to expand...

Wow. Bold move. Good on ya.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
fiend said:
Wow. Bold move. Good on ya.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Thanks. I have no idea what I just jumped into, but I do know you could see the bend in that D44, and someone sunk a lot of $$$$ into it before it bent. Figure it’s got to be like the lift kit... wish I had done that right the first time. :yup:
 
El Burro said:
Thanks. I have no idea what I just jumped into, but I do know you could see the bend in that D44, and someone sunk a lot of $$$$ into it before it bent. Figure it’s got to be like the lift kit... wish I had done that right the first time. :yup:
Click to expand...

Did you go full float rear?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
 
El Burro said:
That’s what the spec sheet says. Full float design, housing carries the weight, not the shaft.

Ultimate 60 5.38’s rear p/n 10005942. It’s going to be a fun swap!
Click to expand...

Definitely made the right move. You won’t have to upgrade the axles down the line, again.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
nmwranglerx said:
Nice upgrade! Post some pics after the install.
Click to expand...

wjtstudios said:
Definitely made the right move. You won’t have to upgrade the axles down the line, again.
Click to expand...

Thanks fellas. It was a really tough decision to make, even though the numbers penciled out every time. A PR 44 was $200 less for the front axle, but factor in FF and the difference in the axle housing, C’s and pinion/ring size and big brakes... Seemed like why buy twice to get something that wouldn’t bend or require another $1k + labor for a brake kit.

I don’t have the 99% of the experience of most anyone on the site, but after listening and watching, i believe it’s the right decision... and it hurts the wallet now to say/do that. So thanks to all for being opinionated in the right way, helping rational folks that don’t want to spend $ on labor/parts over and over and over...

and not just trying to ‘defend the spend’ like on so many other forums. This place is great.
 
Last edited:
jdofmemi said:
That was fast!

I hate when you guys all post up these, and I'm so far from being able to do it.

Just kidding, build away. I will get there some day.
Click to expand...

Haha that’s where I’m at. Especially with a damaged ring gear and broken locker in the rear. It would only be another 1.5k or so to go 14b rear but then I add more weight and width. And right now I fit on a uhaul trailer [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom