Rear axle upgrade question

RubiCommando

New member
I have a 2013 JK Rubicon. Looking at upgrading the rear axle only with a Teraflex CRD60. It comes with gears and an ARB locker installed.

My question is, will I still be able to engage the factory front locker using the dash switch?

If so, is there a way to wire the ARB into the existing factory rear switch?

Is there something else I should be looking at instead. I found a Teraflex in stock. Thought about G2, but they are on indefinite backorder, don't want to spend Currie money.

Thanks for your help!
 
Yes, you're rear locker connected to another source will not stop your front locker from engaging. However, it gets frustrating after while since you will still have to hit the button twice to engage the rear and the front. And the rear will just blink as if it's not engaging.

You can also connect the front OEM locker to its own switch so you don't have two different methods. Eventually that OEM locker switch is going to give you problems anyway. After several years of dust and dirt my locker, sway bar, and ESP buttons don't work as they should.

As for the axle, you get what you pay for. No ones out there charging more money just because they're proud of their product... For a similarly setup axle, most companies aren't going to be too far apart. Be weary of item descriptions that just use terms like "Heavy Duty" or "Extreme" without actually being transparent in where it's made, materials used, thickness, and real numbers to back it up. Otherwise it's just sales talk.
 
I have a 2013 JK Rubicon. Looking at upgrading the rear axle only with a Teraflex CRD60. It comes with gears and an ARB locker installed.
The rear "only"? Is it safe to assume you already have the right gear ratio on your front axle and are you really okay with the rear being wider than the front? How about your wheels? Are you running 5x5.5s now?

If you're doing this to run 40's, you are sorely mistaken that your factory front axle will hold up. If this is just to run 37's, this really isn't an upgrade worth making.
 
Thanks for all the info!

I'm on 4.88s with 5x5 wheels and 37s on a stock rear D44 and no plans to go bigger.

I have been told the rear housing is bent. The only replacement I have found is a stock D44 or a D60 from somebody. My thought was to go with something a little heavier since I need to change it anyway. My understanding was that the TF is stock width.
 
Thanks for all the info!

I'm on 4.88s with 5x5 wheels and 37s on a stock rear D44 and no plans to go bigger.

I have been told the rear housing is bent. The only replacement I have found is a stock D44 or a D60 from somebody. My thought was to go with something a little heavier since I need to change it anyway. My understanding was that the TF is stock width.
Who told you that your rear housing is bent and have you verified as much?

I just looked on TeraFlex's website and it says the CRD60 is 67" wide, come with 5.38 gears and are made for 8 lug wheels. Factory JK axles are only 65.5" and even if you were running 5.38's, your current wheels will NOT fit on this axle.
 
A local shop that I trust told me it is bent.

I should have been more specific. TF has a lot of different versions. I was looking at this:

If you are bending 44s there's a chance you will start bending/breaking flanges on a semi float. Unless you don't wheel that hard and it was just an unlucky drop onto a big rock. Something to consider.
 
A local shop that I trust told me it is bent.

I should have been more specific. TF has a lot of different versions. I was looking at this:

LOL - I always look at shops as places that are in the business of selling me things but hey, glad to hear you trust yours. That said, what exactly did they explain to you and or show you how it was bent or are you just going off their word?

Also, I looked at the link and see that it is available with 4.88 gears but missed the part where it says the axle is 65.5" wide like your factory front or has a 5x5 bolt pattern like what your wheels are now. But hey, it sounds like you're sold on throwing your money at this so good luck to you.
 
If you are bending 44s there's a chance you will start bending/breaking flanges on a semi float. Unless you don't wheel that hard and it was just an unlucky drop onto a big rock. Something to consider.
While I have seen a few bent rear 44's, ALL came after doing a full send and with a hard landing. That said, bent flanges are super common EVEN ON a 60. It is the main reason why I typically recommend people NOT waste their money on them. Go full float for not at all.
 
While I have seen a few bent rear 44's, ALL came after doing a full send and with a hard landing. That said, bent flanges are super common EVEN ON a 60. It is the main reason why I typically recommend people NOT waste their money on them. Go full float for not at all.
Yea, that was my point I probably didnt make clear, if you are damaging 44s a 60 semi float isn't going to help much.
 
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