Quick answer needed!!

Diver_matt

Diver_matt

New member
I have a RK 2.5 X factor that will push the rear axle back one inch. Anyone know a ballpark (within an inch) of driveshaft length? I can get a fair deal on one that was made for a metal cloak 3.5" lift (no axle push though). Curious if it would fit properly.
 
Diver_matt said:
I have a RK 2.5 X factor that will push the rear axle back one inch. Anyone know a ballpark (within an inch) of driveshaft length? I can get a fair deal on one that was made for a metal cloak 3.5" lift (no axle push though). Curious if it would fit properly.
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First off, IF you really push your axle back 1", you coils will bow quite a bit and they'll most likely rub your rear track bar. As far as your drive shaft goes, a good shaft like a Coast or JE Reel will have enough slip to accommodate your needs.
 
I'm asking because I can get a deal on a woods rear. If it'll fit, I'll buy. On vacation and can't measure right now
 
Diver_matt said:
I'm asking because I can get a deal on a woods rear. If it'll fit, I'll buy. On vacation and can't measure right now
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Can't say for sure on a Woods shaft but, IF you decide to get it, make sure you upgrade the u-joints to a set of Spicers or Neapco. The "gold seal" u-joints he uses standard are cheap Chinese joints that I have seen fail time and time again.
 
He is correct in the RK lift will push your dif back one inch. i have the 3.5" lift and it did the same. However, I have had zero clearance issues with coils or the track bar.
 
Serg5000 said:
He is correct in the RK lift will push your dif back one inch. i have the 3.5" lift and it did the same. However, I have had zero clearance issues with coils or the track bar.
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You have a 4-door and I believe he has a 2-door. I have seen this to be a problem on 2-doors and not something I would recommend unless you install a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches.
 
wayoflife said:
You have a 4-door and I believe he has a 2-door. I have seen this to be a problem on 2-doors and not something I would recommend unless you install a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches.
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A 2 door. I always miss the details. Thanks for clearing that up.
 
wayoflife said:
Can't say for sure on a Woods shaft but, IF you decide to get it, make sure you upgrade the u-joints to a set of Spicers or Neapco. The "gold seal" u-joints he uses standard are cheap Chinese joints that I have seen fail time and time again.
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I gotta start talking to you before I buy, Eddie. :banghead:
I spoke to Tom before I got mine and he was able to build them sight unseen if you explain what you have going on.

We are Jeep..Resistance is futile..
 
pvanweelden said:
He said he has a 4 door ^
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In fact he eventually did, didn't he. Well, it's not what I saw in his original post and there is no mention of it in his profile - just states he has a JK. :idontknow:

ridg3runner said:
I gotta start talking to you before I buy, Eddie. :banghead:
I spoke to Tom before I got mine and he was able to build them sight unseen if you explain what you have going on.

We are Jeep..Resistance is futile..
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FWIW, all drive shafts are pretty much made the same way - there's no rocket science to it. The only real difference from one shaft to another is in how well it's balanced and in the components used.
 
I know there's some room for error in the slip of the driveshaft. My logical side says a 3.5" lift vs my 2.5" with the axle pushed back should be fine. But logic doesn't always work with jeeps.

Good tip on the u-joints. Thanks. As for clearance, I have RK correction wedges and getting an RK rear track bar.

So any opinions on my logic? Sound or nuts?
 
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