Question on parts needed for 37's.

MericaMade

MericaMade

Active Member
I need some confirmation on some parts that I was told to buy upgrading to 37’s.

I am looking to add axle sleeves, C gussets, and lower control arm skids. Do I need to do the same for the rear D44? or does the rear only need the axle truss?
 
I think c gussets and lower control arm skids make a lot of sense. Cheap and cheap to install. Don’t do the sleeves.

You don’t need anything for the rear.

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don't do sleeves or truss, waste of money.
if you still have factory control arms, get aftermarket with johhny joints.
i like clayton offroad, strong and guaranteed replace if you damage the arm.
I've yet to damage them, even when i got hit on the side of the axle.
axle, tie-rod, draglink...pretty much the entire suspension was totaled except the control arms
 
At the end of the day its a few hundred vs a few thousand strengthening the front over buying a pro rock or something. I just want to add more strength to the front and back axle for the mean time.
 
D30 or D44? I wouldn't waste a penny on a D30, especially re-gearing it. I have a wheeling buddy who was cheap/stubborn too. Didn't listen to the advice here, sleeved, trussed, C'd, geared a D30. He was still on 35's and managed to blow the spider gears out of the diff. He ordered a pro-rock 44 that night from the campsite over his phone. Rebuilt the gears and sold it off to some other "sucker".

If it's a D44, I would do the C's and call it a day. I managed to bend both my rear D44 axle shafts, but the replacements are holding up for now.
 
zimm said:
D30 or D44? I wouldn't waste a penny on a D30, especially re-gearing it. I have a wheeling buddy who was cheap/stubborn too. Didn't listen to the advice here, sleeved, trussed, C'd, geared a D30. He was still on 35's and managed to blow the spider gears out of the diff. He ordered a pro-rock 44 that night from the campsite over his phone. Rebuilt the gears and sold it off to some other "sucker".

If it's a D44, I would do the C's and call it a day. I managed to bend both my rear D44 axle shafts, but the replacements are holding up for now.
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Thanks for the info. How much would a complete used front D44 no damage with about 2k miles go for. Maybe I could sell and use that money for pro rock or something similar.

Sounds like most are not fans of the sleeves?

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MericaMade said:
Thanks for the info. How much would a complete used front D44 no damage with about 2k miles go for. Maybe I could sell and use that money for pro rock or something similar.

Sounds like most are not fans of the sleeves?

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If you have a rubicon 44 you can get just the housing replacement from Dynatrac and move all your internals over to the PR44, it's a cheaper option for Rubi Owners.
 
jorgelrod said:
If you have a rubicon 44 you can get just the housing replacement from Dynatrac and move all your internals over to the PR44, it's a cheaper option for Rubi Owners.
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I really don’t understand the draw of moving over rubi internals to a PR44, cost? If moving up in axle, wouldn’t you most likely want better gearing?


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Clutch said:
I really don’t understand the draw of moving over rubi internals to a PR44, cost? If moving up in axle, wouldn’t you most likely want better gearing?


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If you've got a Rubi with 4.10 gears and don't feel like you need to change or, if you're like me and have already regeared and just want the upgraded housing, it's a perfect option.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Could someone suggest a good website I could go to and see what a complete prorock with gears would run me? Would a complete Dana 44 in great condition sell for 800?

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Clutch said:
I really don’t understand the draw of moving over rubi internals to a PR44, cost? If moving up in axle, wouldn’t you most likely want better gearing?


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Even if you chose to change gears, you are still saving coin in your locker and shafts. That is why it's a cost effective solution for Rubicon owners vs say a Sport owner like me.
 
MericaMade said:
Could someone suggest a good website I could go to and see what a complete prorock with gears would run me? Would a complete Dana 44 in great condition sell for 800?

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Your joking right?

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Make sure you call Dynatrac after you look over their web site. They will clear up any questions you may have and help you make the right choices based on how you use your Jeep. The only way to go!


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MericaMade said:
Could someone suggest a good website I could go to and see what a complete prorock with gears would run me? Would a complete Dana 44 in great condition sell for 800?

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Click to expand...

Way too many options with that axle. Talk to someone. Either Dynatrac directly or contact Exodus Jeeps here on the forum. You might be able to get 800 for the old axle, look around on Craigslist and see what they're going for. There are people out there that want to ditch the 30 and are willing to pay money for the OEM 44.
 
If you really want to know what you need post up your jeep specs.....a whole new can of worms with 37's. Nice yes, but is it necessary?...yeah I guess it is!:cheesy::cheesy::cheesy:
 
What he said. I'm running 37s on stock 44s. I replaced:
Axle shafts
Ball joints
Knuckles- not necessary
Gussets and inner sleeves- necessary?
Hi steer
Cut stock fenders
I know people who run 40s on stock 44s. They don't daily drive and the more I talk to people and debate 37s v 40s in my head the conclusion I keep coming back to is I'm staying at 37s. I talked to a guy who is running 40s legit axles coilovers etc. He said if he did it over he would stay at because 37s because for him there is no challenge now. Most of my mods including 37s are unnecessary to wheel and have fun. With a stock Rubicon and 35s plus a skid plate for oil pan and friends who have winches and you'll have a great time....

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deezus said:
What he said. I'm running 37s on stock 44s. I replaced:
Axle shafts
Ball joints
Knuckles- not necessary
Gussets and inner sleeves- necessary?
Hi steer
Cut stock fenders
I know people who run 40s on stock 44s. They don't daily drive and the more I talk to people and debate 37s v 40s in my head the conclusion I keep coming back to is I'm staying at 37s. I talked to a guy who is running 40s legit axles coilovers etc. He said if he did it over he would stay at because 37s because for him there is no challenge now. Most of my mods including 37s are unnecessary to wheel and have fun. With a stock Rubicon and 35s plus a skid plate for oil pan and friends who have winches and you'll have a great time....

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Click to expand...

I think you can always find a challenge with 40's...
 
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