Question for those that travel long highway miles to get to the wheeling location

Wizard

New member
This is probably more directed to those with standard hubs, and not those with free wheeling hubs.

I'm curious to know if anyone removes their front tailshaft when travelling long highway miles to get to their wheeling spots, and then refits the tailshaft for the four wheel driving section of the trip?

It just seems hard on unis and tailshafts to be flogging around for miles and miles for nothing.

Anyone do this, or got thoughts on it?
 
This is probably more directed to those with standard hubs, and not those with free wheeling hubs.

I'm curious to know if anyone removes their front tailshaft when travelling long highway miles to get to their wheeling spots, and then refits the tailshaft for the four wheel driving section of the trip?

It just seems hard on unis and tailshafts to be flogging around for miles and miles for nothing.

Anyone do this, or got thoughts on it?

?? standard hubs as in stock jk shafts?? I drive about 400MI each way to get to our fav off road park and i never talk them out!
 
Question for those that travel long highway miles to get to the wheeling loca...

?? standard hubs as in stock jk shafts?? I drive about 400MI each way to get to our fav off road park and i never talk them out!

He's talking about manual hubs vs factory style hubs.
 
I was thinking stock hubs/axles (just those without free wheeling hubs more than anything), but curious with either stock tailshafts or aftermarket ones.

I dont see how not having the shaft out would help the hub, they hubs are also pretty cheap to replace at about 100$ and easy to find. Also i dont think it is super common for them to just fail, but they do go bad over time. its not like the shaft are bouncing around they are held pretty tight between the nut wheel side and the gear housing.
 
What would be bad for it?

I'm just thinking that I run steep angles on the unis, which is a bit of a compromise to get reasonable castor angle and good steering, and so these are flogging around for nothing when on the bitumen. If there was a cheap free wheeling hub option, then I'd definitely be interested.

Just wondered what others did.
 
I dont see how not having the shaft out would help the hub, they hubs are also pretty cheap to replace at about 100$ and easy to find. Also i dont think it is super common for them to just fail, but they do go bad over time. its not like the shaft are bouncing around they are held pretty tight between the nut wheel side and the gear housing.

Thinking more of the unis on the tailshaft/driveshaft.
 
This is probably more directed to those with standard hubs, and not those with free wheeling hubs.

I'm curious to know if anyone removes their front tailshaft when travelling long highway miles to get to their wheeling spots, and then refits the tailshaft for the four wheel driving section of the trip?

It just seems hard on unis and tailshafts to be flogging around for miles and miles for nothing.

Anyone do this, or got thoughts on it?

so if I understand properly, you have a pretty steep angle on the front to get good handling from it and worried about the ujoints on long high speed drives?

If so, it doesn't hurt to remove the driveshaft. I've done it in the past and didn't hurt anything. just make sure the hubs are not locked and you're good to go.

I noticed the driving seemed more free (?) in the front but never noticed any real gains in gas usage.

Do you have adjustable control arms up front? can't adjust them to get better angle? or maybe your track bar is not parallel with your drag link?
 
so if I understand properly, you have a pretty steep angle on the front to get good handling from it and worried about the ujoints on long high speed drives?

Exactly

If so, it doesn't hurt to remove the driveshaft. I've done it in the past and didn't hurt anything. just make sure the hubs are not locked and you're good to go.

Thanks mate, good to hear from someone who does it.

I noticed the driving seemed more free (?) in the front but never noticed any real gains in gas usage.

I'm not really chasing any better fuel consumption, just trying to limit the wear and tear.

Do you have adjustable control arms up front? can't adjust them to get better angle? or maybe your track bar is not parallel with your drag link?

Yes I've got adjustable lower control arms, and adjusted them as far as I could without effecting steering too much, but still got a small amount of driveline vibration.

Thanks for your feedback.

With the front driveshaft off I don't get any vibration, and it's not really a big job to remove and refit when needed.
 
Pity there is no cost effective free-wheeling hub set up for a JK. I looked into it, but it got expensive, real quick......way more cost than the benefit would be.
 
Top Bottom