Prorock 44 leak(s) Need Help

C

Captain Ed

Member
I have a Prorock 44 with a 35 spline ARB locker and RCV shafts I bought here in Wisconsin from a vendor. The axle has about 3000 miles of mostly street driving and the last time it was wheeled was December of 18. I know the leak is new (today) because I installed a metalcloak lift about a month ago and there was no leak. I have gear oil in 2 places. One is at the knuckle near the rcv shaft but the other is puzzling and it is on top of the tube I think near the diff. I have no idea how this is leaking. I do run 37's also but have had no issues until now. First off please tell me how difficult it is to replace the seal? Do I have to pull the locker? DO you usually replace both seals? I also have heard 35 splines eat seals. Not sure if this is true but I hope not What parts do I need to fix this and what is the deal with the leak at the tube? Any advice / help is appreciated. Edpr44a.jpgpr44b.jpgpr44c.jpgpr44d.jpgpr44e.jpgpr44f.jpg
 
The leak near the diff looks like something above it dripping on it. Power steering or the coolant reservoir overflow. The one at the knuckle looks like an inner seal possibly.


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The one by the knuckle looks like a classic inner axle seal leak. Haven't experienced that with my PR but I had that same looking leak on my old JKUR. From the research I did with that one yes you have to pull the carrier to replace that seal and will need some sort of long pipe to pound out the old seal. I didn't end up replacing them in my old Jeep before selling it so can't help much there sorry.

The other leak though I would agree it looks like something dripping from above. Maybe try cleaning that one up and catch it sooner might be more of an indication of where it's coming from. To me it doesn't look like it's coming from the tube or the plug welds and maybe just maybe a small leak from the cover with driving wind could spread it up on top like that but a cover leak would be an easy fix especially since you will need to pull the cover anyway to get to the inner seal

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Call Dynatrac before working on it yourself. They have a 12 month no-fault warranty.

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Thanks for the replies folks. Its been in for more than a year but I certainly will take any help they will give. It certainly has not been wheeled hard and that is the truth. I like doing what I can but this one is a little beyond me. Id love to watch the guy fix it because I think it may be a trend but now I have to find that guy to fix it and the parts he will need. Thanks again!
 
Captain Ed said:
Thanks for the replies folks. Its been in for more than a year but I certainly will take any help they will give. It certainly has not been wheeled hard and that is the truth. I like doing what I can but this one is a little beyond me. Id love to watch the guy fix it because I think it may be a trend but now I have to find that guy to fix it and the parts he will need. Thanks again!
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I have the Spicer part number you need at the shop. If I don’t post it back up here later then you might try calling me at the shop and I’ll give it to you. It’s a $10 seal, with about $250 labor at a reputable shop.


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Captain Ed said:
Thanks for the replies folks. Its been in for more than a year but I certainly will take any help they will give. It certainly has not been wheeled hard and that is the truth. I like doing what I can but this one is a little beyond me. Id love to watch the guy fix it because I think it may be a trend but now I have to find that guy to fix it and the parts he will need. Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Spicer #36487


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Thanks Exodus! I greatly appreciate this. I am waiting on Dynatrack to see if they will help. They have been a good company so I am optimistic. I do have a good local shop owner who is also in my corner now so I am hoping it is done soon. I need to have some Jeep therapy. Thanks again my friend!!
 
Ok the oil on top of the pumpkin was grease that melted when it got hot. The axles seals from RCV were as my mechanic buddy said were not the best for this application, he replaced both with a double lip design as opposed to the single lip that was shot. Dynatrac is Awesome. Very responsive company and in the end none of this was a Dynatrac issue. I am really at ease knowing that they are very concerned for their customers and have a solid product. So I am back on the trail/road again and the world is right! Happy 4th all.
 
Captain Ed said:
Ok the oil on top of the pumpkin was grease that melted when it got hot. The axles seals from RCV were as my mechanic buddy said were not the best for this application, he replaced both with a double lip design as opposed to the single lip that was shot. Dynatrac is Awesome. Very responsive company and in the end none of this was a Dynatrac issue. I am really at ease knowing that they are very concerned for their customers and have a solid product. So I am back on the trail/road again and the world is right! Happy 4th all.
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That's great to hear and thanks for reporting back to us with the solution.
 
I know this post is a few months old, but I recently got the 35 pline deal leak after only 1.5 years and maybe 12k miles. So.. here's what I found from research. Some people say the Dana 60 seal, Spicer 36487, but what I pulled out of mine was a National # 473517. Now, the problem I have is the seals actually wore grooved into my RCV shafts. I was told by RCV and a machine shop to not weld in the grooves and machine them down since they are heat treated shafts. Now RCV said I could machine them down until the grooves are gone, and find another seal that will work.. way too much work in my opinion, but also very pricey to replace the shafts. Okay... now the point of my reply is what I'm considering doing and seeing what everyone thinks. My prorock will not accept a Dana 60 seal due to and adapter that's pressed in to fit that smaller National seal. Not sure why some have it, some dont? The 60 seal has more rubber, more room for flex and deflection. I read on another forum that adapter can be pounded out to fit the 60 seal, but Dynatrac told me they dont recommend it and to put the same seal back in. But I see that seal obviously did not last either, however... there is enough room to fit 2 of them seals back to back if I grind and smooth a small lip on that adapter to meet up with the back stop for the seals. Would anyone recommend that? I will try to add pics to show what I'm talking about. I would think double seal would work great, but I'm no expert, just trying to find a fix for everyone.
 

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I wouldn’t I’d replace the seal with a new one and just clean up around the grove with very fine sand paper. Or take the seal to a bearing/ seal store and see if they can get you one that will be a little smaller Diameter. Wish I could be more help.


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17xJKU said:
I know this post is a few months old, but I recently got the 35 pline deal leak after only 1.5 years and maybe 12k miles. So.. here's what I found from research. Some people say the Dana 60 seal, Spicer 36487, but what I pulled out of mine was a National # 473517. Now, the problem I have is the seals actually wore grooved into my RCV shafts. I was told by RCV and a machine shop to not weld in the grooves and machine them down since they are heat treated shafts. Now RCV said I could machine them down until the grooves are gone, and find another seal that will work.. way too much work in my opinion, but also very pricey to replace the shafts. Okay... now the point of my reply is what I'm considering doing and seeing what everyone thinks. My prorock will not accept a Dana 60 seal due to and adapter that's pressed in to fit that smaller National seal. Not sure why some have it, some dont? The 60 seal has more rubber, more room for flex and deflection. I read on another forum that adapter can be pounded out to fit the 60 seal, but Dynatrac told me they dont recommend it and to put the same seal back in. But I see that seal obviously did not last either, however... there is enough room to fit 2 of them seals back to back if I grind and smooth a small lip on that adapter to meet up with the back stop for the seals. Would anyone recommend that? I will try to add pics to show what I'm talking about. I would think double seal would work great, but I'm no expert, just trying to find a fix for everyone.
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When I used to work on cars in the shop and a seal would grind into a crankshaft, there were thin metal sleeves that you could get to put over the damaged sealing surface and the seal would ride on that new sleeve. Not sure if you could get something like that. I think it would be hard on that end of the axle though to keep it in place.

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Edwrds said:
I wouldn’t I’d replace the seal with a new one and just clean up around the grove with very fine sand paper. Or take the seal to a bearing/ seal store and see if they can get you one that will be a little smaller Diameter. Wish I could be more help.


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There is nothing around this area where I live like that. I may go to the parts store and see if they make a seal that size, but maybe have a double lip. I know these 35 spline shafts are prone to leaking, which I didn't find out until after building it, and I'm just trying to find a fix.

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WJCO said:
When I used to work on cars in the shop and a seal would grind into a crankshaft, there were thin metal sleeves that you could get to put over the damaged sealing surface and the seal would ride on that new sleeve. Not sure if you could get something like that. I think it would be hard on that end of the axle though to keep it in place.

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Yeah, I would be a little worried if that thing moved inside the housing or off to the smaller diameter of the shaft and cause a huge leak. I put JB Weld in the grooves, and I'm going to sand it down and polish it smooth. I also contacted Dynatrac to see what they recommend, either pound out the after to fit the Dana 60 seal, or grind away that small lip to fit 2 seals. I think the 2 seals bank to bank would be great. Like the OP said, his mechanic put I double lip seal in his. Unless I can find a better seal and not have to grind and double them up.

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