PR44 and PR60 for Jeep JK 37" tires - What Am I Missing?

mondricek

mondricek

Member
PR44 and PR60 for Jeep JK 37" tires - What Am I Missing?

Hi Guys,

I have a 2014 2 door JK Sport Auto and about to ditch the front dana 30 and rear 44 for a Dynatrac Prorock 44 front and Prorock 60 rear axles. I have a Metalcloak 2.5" gamechanger lift and CC flat fenders and will be putting on 37" tires.

Here is what I am thinking as far as axles:

PR44
-standard housing (6 degrees of separation like a stock jk axle because I only have a 2.5" lift)
-0.5" wall thickness tubes
-OEM trackbar mount
-4.88 gears
-dynatrac balljoints
-Eaton Elocker 30 spline
-RCV axles 30 spline
-1310 pinion yoke (logic here is this would be the first to break and make for a much easier fix on the trail)

PR60
-4.88 gears
-Eaton Elocker
-1350 pinion yoke
-don't know what else I can customize on the rear axle?

What do you guys think? Does anything stand out to you that I should reconsider?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
PR44 and PR60 for Jeep JK 37" tires - What Am I Missing?

Welcome, you will get a bunch of good experienced based information here.

For the front you are definitely going to want 1350s. The RCVs are expensive, strong, but they have a notorious popping sound that most guys who run them experience. Nothing physically wrong with them, they just snap crack and pop when turning and for what you pay for them they should be quiet. Mine have stayed quiet for a 1.5 years and 27k on them. But most have the opposite experience. Go with the ARB lockers. The engage and disengage quickly. The Eaton’s tend to take more time and sometimes require moving the Jeep forward and back to engage.

For the rear it’s a tough call whether to even do a semi float rear axle or just keep repairing the existing Dana 44. You do get larger diameter axle shafts that are stronger, but you still risk bending an axle flange. Just more difficult too. But it’s a lot of money to spend for a moderately better axle. The tubes are stronger and if you wheel a lot, that’s a Benefit. If you go forward with the rear SF 60 get the ARB lockers as well.

As far as gear ratio do you drive it every day? I daily drove mine since I got it in 15. 4:88s we the best choice for that dual use. Now that it’s going to more of a weekend and Jeep run use, I eventually will bump it up to 5:13s.

Good luck.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
Get the extra caster on the housing. As far as axle shafts, if you buy the axles directly through Dynatrac, you can get their chromoly shafts with ujoints for the front axle.
 
mondricek said:
Hi Guys,

I have a 2014 2 door JK Sport Auto and about to ditch the front dana 30 and rear 44 for a Dynatrac Prorock 44 front and Prorock 60 rear axles. I have a Metalcloak 2.5" gamechanger lift and CC flat fenders and will be putting on 37" tires.

Here is what I am thinking as far as axles:

PR44
-standard housing (6 degrees of separation like a stock jk axle because I only have a 2.5" lift)
-0.5" wall thickness tubes
-OEM trackbar mount
-4.88 gears
-dynatrac balljoints
-Eaton Elocker 30 spline
-RCV axles 30 spline
-1310 pinion yoke (logic here is this would be the first to break and make for a much easier fix on the trail)

PR60
-4.88 gears
-Eaton Elocker
-1350 pinion yoke
-don't know what else I can customize on the rear axle?

What do you guys think? Does anything stand out to you that I should reconsider?

Thanks!
Click to expand...


Get the extra caster built into the front, even at that small lift height it can help, also a raised trackbar mount that has different position available to raise it if needed in the future. Just go to a 1350 in the front, upgrade once. I would also find 35 spline axle shafts with u joints and full circle clips for the front and 35 spline rear and the appropriate locker/carrier for them. I’ve seen issues with all lockers and there is not a single one I would say is more reliable than any others. And with the 4.88 gears you’ll also stay pretty strong for the 37s.
 
If I had to do it over again I wouldn't buy the SF PR60 rear - I still bend flanges regularly it seems. I'm chirping again in the right rear now. If I was to do it over I probably would go with the FF PR60 and either run adapters on the PR44 front or do a 5.5x5 hub conversion. I have no interest in going over 37's as they fit what I do perfectly, so a PR60 front end would be kind of overkill or me. I'd rather put additional monies into the suspension instead.

And ditto on the extra caster/1350's on the PR44.
 
Ddays said:
If I had to do it over again I wouldn't buy the SF PR60 rear - I still bend flanges regularly it seems. I'm chirping again in the right rear now. If I was to do it over I probably would go with the FF PR60 and either run adapters on the PR44 front or do a 5.5x5 hub conversion. I have no interest in going over 37's as they fit what I do perfectly, so a PR60 front end would be kind of overkill or me. I'd rather put additional monies into the suspension instead.

And ditto on the extra caster/1350's on the PR44.
Click to expand...

I keep reading references to bent flanges, and I’m not tracking. Could someone please post a pic and explain?


Matthew
16’ JK Rubicon HR - Wampa
 
Abntroop said:
I keep reading references to bent flanges, and I’m not tracking. Could someone please post a pic and explain?


Matthew
16’ JK Rubicon HR - Wampa
Click to expand...

I don't have a picture for you. Basically sideways impact like slipping off of a rock sideways can bend the outer flange on the axle. The flange is the round flat end that your brake rotor attaches to. When it bends the rotor/wheel and such wobbles and causes noises and vibrations.


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
A.J. said:
I don't have a picture for you. Basically sideways impact like slipping off of a rock sideways can bend the outer flange on the axle. The flange is the round flat end that your brake rotor attaches to. When it bends the rotor/wheel and such wobbles and causes noises and vibrations.


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Gotcha! Thank you [emoji1303]


Matthew
16’ JK Rubicon HR - Wampa
 
OP I have a 12' sport 2dr that I originally had on just a set of 4dr springs and 33s when I bought my trail leader package. Get the extra caster on the housing it will set up just fine. I went back and forth on that for a while because I was so low on lift at first and it still works and now works even better that im on 37s and a 3" lift.
I'd also recommend the 1350.
And I have a 6 speed but kinda wish I had 5.13s for the 37s over the 4.88s that I chose. I ran them on 33s to start so 5.13s would have been way too big and the 4.88s has a bigger pinion but if you have 37s already I'd consider 5.13s.

The pure bolt in ability of the SF PR60 is appealing but if you have a good shop to do the gears and locker the trail leader package will save you 1-2k and should be plenty strong for 37s on a 2dr. Or the other option mentioned above get the FF60 rear with 5x5.5 adapters for the PR44 but I would personally pass on the SF60 rear.

If you do the trail leader package the hydro assist bracket will hit your drag link if you are not running a DL flip so I cut mine off when I first set up my front axle. No big deal but know you may have to cut off that bracket or do a DL flip at the same time.

Sent from my SM-G950U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
mondricek said:
Hi Guys,

I have a 2014 2 door JK Sport Auto and about to ditch the front dana 30 and rear 44 for a Dynatrac Prorock 44 front and Prorock 60 rear axles. I have a Metalcloak 2.5" gamechanger lift and CC flat fenders and will be putting on 37" tires.

Here is what I am thinking as far as axles:

PR44
-standard housing (6 degrees of separation like a stock jk axle because I only have a 2.5" lift)
-0.5" wall thickness tubes
-OEM trackbar mount
-4.88 gears
-dynatrac balljoints
-Eaton Elocker 30 spline
-RCV axles 30 spline
-1310 pinion yoke (logic here is this would be the first to break and make for a much easier fix on the trail)

PR60
-4.88 gears
-Eaton Elocker
-1350 pinion yoke
-don't know what else I can customize on the rear axle?

What do you guys think? Does anything stand out to you that I should reconsider?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Welcome to Wayalife - go check in and give us a wave.

If you are not planning on going above 37's, why not got PR44 front with upgraded 35 spline axles on the back. I did the Dynatrac trail leader package, it is a nice kit. The Upgraded D44 in the back will have no problem supporting 37's. I would also suggest upper and lower adjustable control arms in the front. With my PR44, I needed both to really dial in my alignment. As others have said, 1350 is what you want to do for drive shaft on the front. RCVs are nice (I put 80k miles on my old Jeep), but they do pop and make horrible noises after awhile.
 
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