P0740

catahoula

catahoula

Caught the Bug
I had my code read and they said originally add transmission oil and no code. This time I looked at computer with them and noticed this code. I filled my fluid while hot and it was in-between bottom two and top two holes on dip stick. My Jeep is running great and have not noticed any change. Any ideas guy? Should I add more fluid? I'm not impressed with the dealer here. They tried to get a brake job from me and I was going to do, and inspected myself.....do not need for a long time! Thanks in advance!

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How many miles? Ever change the fluid / filter? Any shutters or noises? Might be a torque converter issue?
 
Likely a TC or a TCC solenoid in the valve body if there is one. Clear the code and keep an eye on it. If it starts to shutter, then you could have an issue.
 
sipafz said:
How many miles? Ever change the fluid / filter? Any shutters or noises? Might be a torque converter issue?
Click to expand...

WJCO said:
Likely a TC or a TCC solenoid in the valve body if there is one. Clear the code and keep an eye on it. If it starts to shutter, then you could have an issue.
Click to expand...

110,000, I have changed not recently, absolutely no shutters, runs and drive great. Some say maybe loose or damaged wire. Anyone know where located. Still looking for a pic and have not found one.
 
Here is some info that might help me as well as others.

Possible causes - Low transmission fluid level - Dirty transmission fluid - Faulty torque converter clutch solenoid valve - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve harness is open or shorted - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit poor electrical connection

Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Transmission shift shock - Vehicle may not shift into the highest gear

My only symptom has been low oil and trying to figure out sweet spot for fluid for starters.
 
Judging from this I need to add more.

Fluid Level Check — 42RLE
Check the fluid level while the transmission is at normal
operating temperature 180° F (82° C). This occurs after at
least 15 mi (25 km) of driving. At normal operating
temperature the fluid cannot be held comfortably between
the fingertips.


To properly check the automatic transmission fluid level,
the following procedure must be used:
1. Operate the engine at idle speed and normal operating
temperature.
2. The vehicle must be on level ground.
3. Fully apply parking brake.
4. Place the gear selector momentarily in each gear
position ending with the lever in P (Park).
5. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean and reinsert it until
seated.
6. Remove the dipstick again and note the fluid level on
both sides. The fluid level should be between the HOT
(upper) reference holes on the dipstick at normal operating
temperature. Verify that a solid coating of oil is seen
on both sides of the dipstick. If the fluid is low, add as
required into the dipstick tube. Do not overfill. After
adding any quantity of oil through the dipstick tube, wait
a minimum of two (2) minutes for the oil to fully drain
into the transmission before rechecking the fluid level.

NOTE: If it is necessary to check the transmission below
the operating temperature, the fluid level should be
between the two cold (lower) holes on the dipstick with
the fluid at approximately 70° F (21° C) (room temperature).
If the fluid level is correctly established at room
temperature, it should be between the HOT (upper)
reference holes when the transmission reaches 180° F (21°
C). Remember it is best to check the level at the normal
operating temperature.
 
Ok got set up for an oil and tranny flush. They suggested doing that then see how it is. Then next service do the drop pan and filter. So a flush cleans everything out, they add new fluid. Apparently with a pan drop and filter replacement they only take out some fluid due the converter holding more than add back in. I figure I am past due and no change in shifting or driving. Hoping that might do it. Thoughts?


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catahoula said:
Ok got set up for an oil and tranny flush. They suggested doing that then see how it is. Then next service do the drop pan and filter. So a flush cleans everything out, they add new fluid. Apparently with a pan drop and filter replacement they only take out some fluid due the converter holding more than add back in. I figure I am past due and no change in shifting or driving. Hoping that might do it. Thoughts?


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Click to expand...

If you have a lot of miles and haven't done a flush in a while, I would recommend drain and fill with filter even though you won't get all the fluid out. If a flush is not done regularly per manufacturers recommendations, it can cause issues if you flush it at higher miles. I have seen this happen. So if you haven't been doing flushes every 30k or so and you have a decent amount of miles on the rig, I would recommend a drain and fill with a filter. Then do it again in 15k or 20k or so.
 
catahoula said:
Ok got set up for an oil and tranny flush. They suggested doing that then see how it is. Then next service do the drop pan and filter. So a flush cleans everything out, they add new fluid. Apparently with a pan drop and filter replacement they only take out some fluid due the converter holding more than add back in. I figure I am past due and no change in shifting or driving. Hoping that might do it. Thoughts?


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Click to expand...

Ehhh from what I know that a flush plus pulling the filter gets it all out. A flush will only get most and same with pulling the filter. I would rather do the latter cause I'm sure you need a new filter as well and they are cheap


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Update!

WOOOOOOOHOOOOO! I am stoked!!! I took my rig to a shop and had a flush. Code still came up. FYI, I have a Superchips and it kept reading that code. Well, I took it to a tranny shop and they ran the code. Apparently, the SC can't read all codes and gave me a false one. The code that came up on theirs was for the tow/haul button. I have not used that button since I bought it and/or spilled coffee or pop on it. The cleaned it out and code went away. They also cleaned up underneath where the first shop seemed to overfilled and sprayed fluid all over the chassis. Total for bill was under $180! Thanks guys for the advice and help. Internet beers for everyone!:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:
 
catahoula said:
WOOOOOOOHOOOOO! I am stoked!!! I took my rig to a shop and had a flush. Code still came up. FYI, I have a Superchips and it kept reading that code. Well, I took it to a tranny shop and they ran the code. Apparently, the SC can't read all codes and gave me a false one. The code that came up on theirs was for the tow/haul button. I have not used that button since I bought it and/or spilled coffee or pop on it. The cleaned it out and code went away. They also cleaned up underneath where the first shop seemed to overfilled and sprayed fluid all over the chassis. Total for bill was under $180! Thanks guys for the advice and help. Internet beers for everyone!:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:
Click to expand...

Wow. Great news, Pete. That's a couple grand in savings.
 
WJCO said:
Wow. Great news, Pete. That's a couple grand in savings.
Click to expand...
I always joked about that button! Like I said it never ran bad at all. Crazy shit! I'm still gonna give it a few days. This was a good repair bill. Gonna make me wonder now Everytime I plug that reader in

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Recap. Well was not the problem. Turned out I had to get a rebuild on my tranny AND it was the torque converter. In a previous post about suprchips code running wrong it was correct after all. One of the shops or shall I say two stated that apparently did not know what the fuck they were doing. I will retract that post about superchips. So the one shop did clean the years of coke and coffee and got my OD button working. I got it back yesterday for a whopping total of $2600. Still early to say I actually think it is running better even though it seemed to run fine before. Some said just run it until it dies. I am more of a get it fixed so I'm not stranded out in the middle of nowhere kinda guy. I am educated more on a tranny repair now. It can this or this they truly do not know until they open it up. You cannot get a new tranny they are remanufactured even called dealership. The price is outrageous $5800 with core $2000.The dealership however warranty is 3 years or100,000 miles. O'Reilly's is about $1700 with core of 500. Warranty of 3 years or 36,000. I just kept my tranny and had rebuilt. I just decided for a rebuild instead of just fix those parts. It has 114,000 on it at the moment. So hopefully the next mod will be more funer.😀

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catahoula said:
Recap. Well was not the problem. Turned out I had to get a rebuild on my tranny AND it was the torque converter. In a previous post about suprchips code running wrong it was correct after all. One of the shops or shall I say two stated that apparently did not know what the fuck they were doing. I will retract that post about superchips. So the one shop did clean the years of coke and coffee and got my OD button working. I got it back yesterday for a whopping total of $2600. Still early to say I actually think it is running better even though it seemed to run fine before. Some said just run it until it dies. I am more of a get it fixed so I'm not stranded out in the middle of nowhere kinda guy. I am educated more on a tranny repair now. It can this or this they truly do not know until they open it up. You cannot get a new tranny they are remanufactured even called dealership. The price is outrageous $5800 with core $2000.The dealership however warranty is 3 years or100,000 miles. O'Reilly's is about $1700 with core of 500. Warranty of 3 years or 36,000. I just kept my tranny and had rebuilt. I just decided for a rebuild instead of just fix those parts. It has 114,000 on it at the moment. So hopefully the next mod will be more funer.😀

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Click to expand...

Sorry to hear you had to go through it, but glad you got it fixed now.
 
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