Overlander Axles, Re-gear and lockers costs?

T

TheRonster

New member
Hi guys,

I have a few questions about axles, and I hope someone can help me out or clarify a few things for me.

I have a JKU 14' Sahara with 3" Teraflex lift and a front runner roof rack(RTT coming soon) and 35" KO2 tires and factory gears. So sluggish af with all the drag haha not to forget the bad gas mileage.

I don't like rock crawling unless necessary to get to my campsite and many times I'm roadtripping to the trails and campsites.. I like overlanding and exploring if you will. As you may already know the Sahara has Rear Dana 44 and Front Dana 30 axles.

I want to do something about it. So here are the questions:

1. For the specific use of my Jeep should I replace the front axle with a dana 44 then re-gear and stuff? or Truss Gusset and sleeve and it'll be fine? Is there a cost difference?

2. How much should re-gearing from 3.21 - 3.73 to 4.56 or 4.88 cost?

3. How much should adding front and rear lockers with air compressor cost?

Thank you fellow Jeepers for the help.

Ron
 
Just my 2 cents here, but it really depends on your budget. The sky is the limit really.

Since you say you are not going to rock crawl it, I would probably just regear and truss/gusset the front D30 axle you have. Matter of fact I just sold my rubi D44 to a guy in south Alabama who has a built trussed D30 with RCV shafts, 4.88 gears and locker. He’s going to sell it and I could put you in touch with him if you want. Used is the way to go if money is a concern.

I wouldn’t mess with the sleeves!

The rear D44 can really be built however you like and not a lot of difference in price between different lockers, shafts, etc.

Regear would be ~ $1500 including parts and labor. No difference in price for 3.73, 4.56, 4.88, etc. Installing locker and chromoly shafts at the time of regear wouldn’t really increase labor too much.



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Locking a front 30 is a recipe for disaster. Don’t throw any money at it. I’m sure you could find a take off front 44 off of some ones jeep that upgrade their axles. And then add a set of ARBs to that and your current rear.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
I would avoid gearing and locking the dana 30. And the Rubi 44 shares many of the same weaknesses of the 30 excluding the larger ring and pinion set and the fact that it has a locker. If you want something that you can do once and never worry about than I recommend the trail leader package from Dynatrac. It sounds like a perfect option for the type of wheeling you described. It replaces your front with a Prorock 44, ARB lockers front and rear, and upgrades your rear shafts to 35 spline. The kit goes for $6500 and all you have to do is install everything, or pay someone the labor to do the install.


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QuicksilverJK said:
I would avoid gearing and locking the dana 30. And the Rubi 44 shares many of the same weaknesses of the 30 excluding the larger ring and pinion set and the fact that it has a locker. If you want something that you can do once and never worry about than I recommend the trail leader package from Dynatrac. It sounds like a perfect option for the type of wheeling you described. It replaces your front with a Prorock 44, ARB lockers front and rear, and upgrades your rear shafts to 35 spline. The kit goes for $6500 and all you have to do is install everything, or pay someone the labor to do the install.


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Click to expand...

^^^^ This!!


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OP, unless you want to drop quite a bit of money on stuff it sounds like you don’t really need, I’d suggest you gusset the D30, regear to 4.56 or 4.88, and call it a day. If you think you’ll be getting into mud or snow and ice, put a Truetrac in the rear or maybe front and rear. A lot cheaper than lockers, automatic, and better for snow and ice anyway.

Regearing will cost about $1500, parts and labor. Truetracs will be another $500 each. Lockers will be $1000 each. There’s really no extra labor to install either, once you’re regearing.

A compressor will be $300-500. Installing that will be expensive if you pay someone to do it.


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Last edited:
^^^^ This is great advice. Spend your money on more trips instead of stuff you do need!
 
fiend said:
OP, unless you want to drop quite a bit of money on stuff it sounds like you don’t really need, I’d suggest you gusset the D30, regear to 4.56 or 4.88, and call it a day. If you think you’ll be getting into mud or snow and ice, put a Truetrac in the rear or maybe front and rear. A lot cheaper than lockers, automatic, and better for snow and ice anyway.


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Click to expand...

I have to agree with this.
 
Thank you guys so much for the input. Looks like this is gonna cost me a little more than I intended to spend but I guess I'll cry now and hopefully it lasts.

I went with 4.88s - E Locker(I barely ever have the need so saves some money vs air lockers) - Dynatrac Prorock 44 with spicer chromoly shafts and new joints that come with it.

They haven't installed it yet but I'll let you know how I feel after! Thanks!
 
TheRonster said:
Thank you guys so much for the input. Looks like this is gonna cost me a little more than I intended to spend but I guess I'll cry now and hopefully it lasts.

I went with 4.88s - E Locker(I barely ever have the need so saves some money vs air lockers) - Dynatrac Prorock 44 with spicer chromoly shafts and new joints that come with it.

They haven't installed it yet but I'll let you know how I feel after! Thanks!
Click to expand...

Sounds like a solid choice. [emoji106]


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