BEE'S TWIN
New member
So have a choice between getting a new rear end for $1000 or doing a 4-link long arm upgrade F/R for $1000... Which should I go with??
New rear end or new 4 link suspension
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BEE'S TWIN
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Sorry still a little new at this.. I have a 30 and going for the 8.8... There is a company here in Utah that builds custom suspensions for buggies and crawlers that do the W.E Rock.. He was going to do mine for 1000. It is just the arms an brackets not a full on LA kit.
BEE'S TWIN
New member
Or, do the 8.8 & skip the long arm idea altogether.
Mid arm & short arm setups have proven every bit as effective on TJ's, with more clearance to boot. And, the long arm ride quality myth was busted long ago.
Sorry but what is a mid arm..?? I have the short arm and hate it.. Feels like riding in a tank.. Was looking at the Clayton long arm
sm31
Active Member
"Mid" arm is where the CA lengths are between a short arm & long arm. There aren't many out there, but popularity is increasing quickly. I don't mean to suggest that a long arm suspension is never a the right option, but more often than not, it isn't. If you are experiencing ride quality issues, I promise it is not the length of your CA's unless your are lifted well over 4". One problem with most long arm suspensions on TJ's is that the attachment points tend to catch on everything. You will be effectively lowering clearance by at least a couple of inches. I was looking at something similar when I first purchased my jeep... I'm so glad I didn't waste the money. The guys in the TJ section over on Jeepforum were really helpful. In fact, I ended up drastically improving ride quality (especially on wash-board dirt roads, etc.) without even touching the CA's. While I do plan to replace them in the near future (for adjustability, not ride quality), I was at least able to save some coin & completely resolve the ride quality issues for now.
Do you currently have a lift installed? What shocks & springs are you running?
Or, do the 8.8 & skip the long arm idea altogether.
Mid arm & short arm setups have proven every bit as effective on TJ's, with more clearance to boot. And, the long arm ride quality myth was busted long ago.
I too would agree that going with an 8.8 is the way to go and I'm also glad that you clarified your long arm comments. It is no myth, I have run a few different short arm kits on my TJ and yes, you can get them to ride nicely but, when you are sitting at 4" or more, long arms will make a considerable difference. Assuming you are running it with big enough tires, they will not "catch" on everything as some seem to think. Hit and slide over obstacles sure but if it's a quality kit, it's no big deal.
BEE'S TWIN
New member
It's a 4" skyjacker right now.. I really do not like it..
How would you characterize your ride, what is it about it that you don't like specifically? Too harsh or too soft? Are you planning on sticking with 33" tires?
BEE'S TWIN
New member
It really does not flex at all.. The ride is extremely stiff, little sagging, I can feel eery bump and crack in the road.. It has no comfort at all.. So that's why I was thinking the long arm would help out a lot.. Also why I was asking bout coilovers for the flexing issues, but I know you said that they are not that great for the TJ unless some serious time and money went into them.... I want to go to 35 inch tire that's why I am doing the 8.8... Was thinking a 3.5" lift with the high line fenders... Or just do the Clayton LA 4"" with the 4 link rear..
sm31
Active Member
My bad... Was in a hurry with that first reply & tried to come back and clarify better.
The majority of LA suspensions I see on TJ's are lifted around 4" & running 35" tires. At that level they just aren't doing themselves any favors. On top of that, it's often a "cheap" (still in the thousands) suspension with "hangy down" attachment points ready to drag across half the rocks in Utah.
In my opinion, the longer arms won't make a significant difference until several other (very expensive) aspects of a TJ's design are addressed. Personally, I would look to building axles that can handle a 37" tire, and seriously consider extending the wheelbase a few inches before installing a long arm suspension. But then we're getting into a $10,000+ project to do it right. Unfortunately, with a cost of only $1000 I would have to question the quality of that long arm suspension. And I don't mess with suspension components unless I have the financial means to get the good stuff. I learned that the hard way through several years involved in SCCA club racing.
Meanwhile, $1000 will definitely get a quality 8.8 axle strong enough to handle 35's on the toughest terrain. And even better, that axle won't hold you back as you plan future upgrades.
The majority of LA suspensions I see on TJ's are lifted around 4" & running 35" tires. At that level they just aren't doing themselves any favors. On top of that, it's often a "cheap" (still in the thousands) suspension with "hangy down" attachment points ready to drag across half the rocks in Utah.
In my opinion, the longer arms won't make a significant difference until several other (very expensive) aspects of a TJ's design are addressed. Personally, I would look to building axles that can handle a 37" tire, and seriously consider extending the wheelbase a few inches before installing a long arm suspension. But then we're getting into a $10,000+ project to do it right. Unfortunately, with a cost of only $1000 I would have to question the quality of that long arm suspension. And I don't mess with suspension components unless I have the financial means to get the good stuff. I learned that the hard way through several years involved in SCCA club racing.
Meanwhile, $1000 will definitely get a quality 8.8 axle strong enough to handle 35's on the toughest terrain. And even better, that axle won't hold you back as you plan future upgrades.
First off, how much air are you running in your tires. Feeling every bump and crack in the road is typically something you would feel with tires that are running too much air in them. Also, is it safe to assume you are running the basic hydro shocks that came with the kit? If so, changing them out for a good monotube can help out too. Either way, I think you would be better served saving up for a good 3.5" short arm kit.
BEE'S TWIN
New member
Ya still running the stock shocks and I dropped the tire pressure to 30 vs 35 what the tire says.. So do a short arm??? What about doing a LA.. Just to say Full Traction.. SA vs LA
LOL!! Well, if you're still running stock shocks, there's a big part of your problem especially in the flex department. Your shock travel is ultimately the limiting factor in how much flex you can get can you can't get a short shock to give you more droop.
Regarding your tires, 30 psi is better but, depending on if you are running a Range C, D or E, you may find it necessary to run closer to 26-28 psi for a better ride. Of course, running new shocks may help out too.
If you're just planning on running 33's or 35's, I would just do a good short arm kit.
BEE'S TWIN
New member
Rock krawler, full traction, rubicon express? One of them for the choice?
BEE'S TWIN
New member
With a pair of fox shocks or something like that or bilsteins
I've only had experience with RE and FT and both were really nice kits. I would recommend either. RK probably makes a good kit too but, I have no personal experience with it.
Fox will be more expensive. Bilstein 5100's will get the job done. I might even look at the new Rancho 7000MT as they are similar and cheaper.
sm31
Active Member
This is a great kit. It's the "good stuff" though, and priced accordingly. These are the CA's I'm looking at...
http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=135&categoryId=2
BTW, I run my tires at 28 psi on the street & I might go to 26.
Edit: As Wayalife indicated... you will see a *dramatic* improvement in ride quality simply replacing shocks & springs with quality components.
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BEE'S TWIN
New member
I like it.. For that price, why not just do a LA?