Need an Adjustable Rear Track Bar Shorter than Factory

C

Cadima

New member
Hi guys,
To make a long story short I have a rear trackbar relocation bracket already and the axle is fairly well centered but I need to tweak the axle a bit over to the passenger side. Was looking at the JKS bar but heard its longer than the OEM bar even when fully adjusted in. So I need a bar that can be adjusted to shorter than the factory bar. Anyone running an adjustable rear track bar that they have confirmed is shorter than the OEM? Thanks!
 
Cadima said:
Hi guys,
To make a long story short I have a rear trackbar relocation bracket already and the axle is fairly well centered but I need to tweak the axle a bit over to the passenger side. Was looking at the JKS bar but heard its longer than the OEM bar even when fully adjusted in. So I need a bar that can be adjusted to shorter than the factory bar. Anyone running an adjustable rear track bar that they have confirmed is shorter than the OEM? Thanks!
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Umm, how much shorter are you talking?

The Fulltraction bars have enough play you can cut off some of the thread. Or give them a call, I'm sure they would make a custom one for you.
 
Just save your money and use your factory track bar. Makes no sense to be worried about a little tweek. Did you measure with passengers, full tank of gas or a empty jeep? You're axle shifts every time you hit a bump. Just trying to save you money.
 
piginajeep said:
Umm, how much shorter are you talking?

The Fulltraction bars have enough play you can cut off some of the thread. Or give them a call, I'm sure they would make a custom one for you.
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Im guessing I only need about 1/2" shorter. Would prefer to grab something off the shelf if it exists but if not, I'll have a look a Fulltraction and maybe try for a custom bar.
 
olram30 said:
Just save your money and use your factory track bar. Makes no sense to be worried about a little tweek. Did you measure with passengers, full tank of gas or a empty jeep? You're axle shifts every time you hit a bump. Just trying to save you money.
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Not worried about the axle centering, but the right upper rear control arm jam nut is hitting my frame and wont let me hit full stuff on the driver side rear. When it hits it binds up the suspension. I am hoping a small shift to the passenger side will get it dialed in without overcorrecting and making my 1350 driveshaft hit my gas tank (which I just had to make room for with a BFH).
 
Ok, so your rear upper driver's side bolt is hitting your frame? What arms do you have? Just trying to get a visual.
 
olram30 said:
Ok, so your rear upper driver's side bolt is hitting your frame? What arms do you have? Just trying to get a visual.
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Using Metalcloak arms. Here is pic of the upper rear passenger control arm hitting the frame while on an RTI ramp. The driver rear bumpstop still has several inches to go. The jam nut is right against the frame.

IMAG0474.jpg
 
Cadima said:
Not worried about the axle centering, but the right upper rear control arm jam nut is hitting my frame and wont let me hit full stuff on the driver side rear. When it hits it binds up the suspension. I am hoping a small shift to the passenger side will get it dialed in without overcorrecting and making my 1350 driveshaft hit my gas tank (which I just had to make room for with a BFH).
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So they're adjustable arms and the jam nut for the adjuster is hitting the frame? I've never seen that problem. Is there anything else going on?
 
Cadima said:
Using Metalcloak arms. Here is pic of the upper rear passenger control arm hitting the frame while on an RTI ramp. The driver rear bumpstop still has several inches to go. The jam nut is right against the frame.

View attachment 150524
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Are u sure the arm is in the right location? Should it be rotated 180 degrees?
 
They appear to be on correctly, I don't know if they are adjusted to the right length. I really thought most companies put the jamb nut on the axle side. I'm wondering if you could switch them. Maybe put the passenger on the driver's. The bend should be the same, but the jamb nut would be on the axle. I don't know. I don't think a track bar is going to help.
 
Something doesn't seem right... Same arms seen here with factory track bar. Let's see the track bar mount at the axle.
 

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Everything is correctly installed. Metalcloak told me the rock star skids have allowed me to droop beyond the limits of the system. And we all know rockstars are a one way ticket. So at this point, I figure I can tweak the axle over (its currently biased toward the driver side about 5/16" of an inch) and/or take a BFH to the frame to make a dimple and give the jam nuts some more room.
 
Cadima said:
Everything is correctly installed. Metalcloak told me the rock star skids have allowed me to droop beyond the limits of the system. And we all know rockstars are a one way ticket. So at this point, I figure I can tweak the axle over (its currently biased toward the driver side about 5/16" of an inch) and/or take a BFH to the frame to make a dimple and give the jam nuts some more room.
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I have rockstar skids too. I smell bull-shit :crazyeyes:

Edit to add: the diff yoke hitting the gas-tank is a combination of track-bar length and stuff amount not droop. (Other than the fact that when the driver's side droops it moves at an arc forward and noses the pinion that direction.)
 
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Cadima said:
Have you checked yours on an RTI ramp taking the passenger side up?
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Better.... real world. I'm slightly carrying my passenger front.

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but yes, with a fork truck too...
 
Cadima said:
Everything is correctly installed. Metalcloak told me the rock star skids have allowed me to droop beyond the limits of the system. And we all know rockstars are a one way ticket. So at this point, I figure I can tweak the axle over (its currently biased toward the driver side about 5/16" of an inch) and/or take a BFH to the frame to make a dimple and give the jam nuts some more room.
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Metalcloak is blaming the evo rock stars? Mc uses rear shock relocation brackets also. Sounds like they are feeding you bullshit there. Never heard of too much droop causing this. Good luck fixing this. Really sucks spending your hard earned cash and don't get the results you wanted.
 
olram30 said:
Metalcloak is blaming the evo rock stars? Mc uses rear shock relocation brackets also. Sounds like they are feeding you bullshit there. Never heard of too much droop causing this. Good luck fixing this. Really sucks spending your hard earned cash and don't get the results you wanted.
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X2 and I think their mounts actually raise the shock 2" over the 1.5" of the rockstars. (I'm not sure though)
 
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