Need advices ; painting your accessories

Holeshot

Holeshot

Banned
Ok guys, I need some good advices from bodyman or whoever who have ever done this before with success.

Last year, I painted my front bumper with gator guard II, which is a really nice and solid product. However, the prep was not at its best, I ran out of time so I made it quick, and now it has chips and starts to rust. With winter coming up fast, I will need to repaint it. I will get the job done by the guys at the bodyshop at my job.

I had in mind to first of, get it sandblasted, then primed with zinc primer, and then 2 coats of gator guard, and on top of this, 2 other coats of flat black paint, just to prevent fading over time.

A friend of mine told me that it would need to be sanded by hand with at least 80 grain paper even after the sandblast, what you guys think about this? I know it can't hurt, but is it necessary?

Thanks for your help.

:standing wave:
 
Doesn't that product require a coarse grit? You might need to either sand or sandblast. The prep is the most important. I would probably call them for tips. Did you use a rocker shultz gun for application?
 
catahoula said:
Doesn't that product require a coarse grit? You might need to either sand or sandblast. The prep is the most important. I would probably call them for tips. Did you use a rocker shultz gun for application?
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ho man that's a good question, it was a gun to apply gravel guard type of paint, I'm totally ignorant in that domain lol.

And the sandblast must be done anyway, there's already gator guard on it, and it needs to come off before I repaint, obviously.


EDIT:
80 is a coarse grit, isn't it? IMO it is lol, unless you're talking about like 60 or even 40
 
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Holeshot said:
ho man that's a good question, it was a gun to apply gravel guard type of paint, I'm totally ignorant in that domain lol.

And the sandblast must be done anyway, there's already gator guard on it, and it needs to come off before I repaint, obviously.


EDIT:
80 is a coarse grit, isn't it? IMO it is lol, unless you're talking about like 60 or even 40
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I would think at least 80. That's some tough, thick shit ain't it? I use to sell that stuff a few years ago including U-Pol, Herkuliner, and Duplicolor when I was in the automotive industry.

BTW, Your rig is pretty sweet!
 
yea I did it with 80 grit last year, but by hand, not with the power sander.

And thanks, its appreciated :standing wave:
 
Holeshot said:
anyone else?
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80 grit is not that gritty actually, if 80 is the minimum required. Sandblasting will provide the same amount of "coarse" prepped surface. Keep in mind any other media blasting will provide smoother surface. So make sure its sand.

If you use a power sander or do it by hand it will do the same, only your scratches will be circular instead of straight. power sander will give a more consistent surface with less fatigue. But my official stance is after the sandblasting, it should not be necessary.

My question to you is... Why not powdercoat it? seems like it will be less money to me, unless you are getting a screaming deal... Just my opinion
 
I would love to powdercoat my stuff, but there is two main reasons to that.

1- the nearest shop is at like a 6 hours drive from home.

2- If I scratch it on something, its gonna be easier to repaint over it and less visible.

And if sandblast (with sand, not glass) equal the job of an 80 grit sanding, I'll only do the sandblast.

thanks for your help
 
Holeshot said:
I would love to powdercoat my stuff, but there is two main reasons to that.

1- the nearest shop is at like a 6 hours drive from home.

2- If I scratch it on something, its gonna be easier to repaint over it and less visible.

And if sandblast (with sand, not glass) equal the job of an 80 grit sanding, I'll only do the sandblast.

thanks for your help
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so my honest opinion on this would be to possibly do a bed lined undercoat i did that for my hard top before i colour matched it and it gives that thick coars texture for the following coats to adhere to without any problems and damage wise any scratched or chips all you have to do is take a small brush and dab some in th rare you require. just plunk and pull up good old dap or two should do it. matches the surface and you can never know it was scratched or chipped since the redlining coats clump in areas to give a thick look. just my opinion worked well with my top so i can see this working out well on you bumper to be honest and i was going to do the same set up on my numbers and stinger once i am done them
 
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