Modification Sequence Input Request

silversurfer575

silversurfer575

Member
Hi all.

Ive been reading a lot, learning a lot. Have made some investments in my build that I really should have not done (Reids, RCVs) because the parts wont carry over to a new PR44 UNL. Hoping to recoup some cost if I can sell my current built axle.

Heres where I want to go:

1. PR44 Unlimited Front Axle
2. EVO adj LA kit
3. EVO Bolt on Coilovers front and rear
4. regear to 4:56 or 4:88
5. King bumpstops
6: armor up the rear corners
7. Upgrade rear axle housing and shafts. Not sure what to do there yet.
8. ARB front and rear

I cannot afford to do all of this at once, so Im trying to figure out how to do this in pieces. I kinda screwed up by getting the RCVs and Reids for my current axle. I originally thought I would be able to use the RCVs and the REIDs with the PR 44. Misinformed, I can use the Reids, but may just leave them on my current axle and sell with that.

I do most all of the work on my Jeep except welding, alignment, and gears.

That being the case,

1. Can I install the PR44 in the front, with the ARB and the 4:56 or 4:88 gears installed, and run the 4:10 in the rear, for about 20 miles, until I can get it to a shop for the gearing in the rear? I could just not connect the driveshaft to the front......will that work?

2. I blew it on my current front axle. I thought I would be able to use the RCVs on the PR44, but realize that I cannot. For the rears, are there axle shaft, gearing, locker combos that I can do to the rear axle, that I can transfer to a heavier duty housing later? In other words, can I upgrade to ARBs, 4:56 or 4:88s, and heavy duty axle shafts (what brand do you suggest?) now?

3. Bolt on coilovers front and rear: Is it better to do the fronts first, then the rears, or ?

4. I hear I can run adj short arms with the coilovers. I have TF arms, which I will want to change out, and most likely go with the EVO LA, so I have more ground clearance. What are your thoughts about when I should do those? Before the PR44? Before the coilovers?

Note: I have a 4inch total lift between coils and spacers.
I run 35s and do not intend to go any higher.
My rig is a 2012 2 door JK rubi, automatic.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
silversurfer575 said:
1. Can I install the PR44 in the front, with the ARB and the 4:56 or 4:88 gears installed, and run the 4:10 in the rear, for about 20 miles, until I can get it to a shop for the gearing in the rear? I could just not connect the driveshaft to the front......will that work?
Click to expand...

So long as you DO NOT put it in 4WD, you will be fine.

2. I blew it on my current front axle. I thought I would be able to use the RCVs on the PR44, but realize that I cannot. For the rears, are there axle shaft, gearing, locker combos that I can do to the rear axle, that I can transfer to a heavier duty housing later? In other words, can I upgrade to ARBs, 4:56 or 4:88s, and heavy duty axle shafts (what brand do you suggest?) now?
Click to expand...

First off, how big of a tire are you hoping to run? I personally wouldn't bother with 4.56 for anything and would even be reluctant to run 4.88's unless you're just going to stick with 35's or have a Dana 30. Having said that, if there's nothing wrong with your factory rear shafts, I would just leave well enough alone until you NEED to replace them. If you play hard enough, you'll bend ANY semi-float shaft flange regardless of the make - it's just the nature of the beast. The good thing is that most chromoly shafts are cheaper than an OE replacement and I would just get one when needed. IF you have a Sport or Sahara, I would highly recommend that you install an ARB with 35 spline chromoly shafts as that would be a real upgrade. IF you have a Rubicon, you're kind of stuck with the standard 32 splines that you have from the factory.

3. Bolt on coilovers front and rear: Is it better to do the fronts first, then the rears, or ?
Click to expand...

No. If you're going to do it, just save up and do both at the same time. There really is no benefit to do just one or the other as you will always be limited to what end you didn't upgrade.

4. I hear I can run adj short arms with the coilovers. I have TF arms, which I will want to change out, and most likely go with the EVO LA, so I have more ground clearance. What are your thoughts about when I should do those? Before the PR44? Before the coilovers?
Click to expand...

Yes, you can run bolt on coil overs with just adjustable front lower arms. Rear uppers as well if you have a 2-door. I would definitely install long arms AFTER coil overs. I would also get a PR44 before long arms.

Note: I have a 4inch total lift between coils and spacers.
I run 35s and do not intend to go any higher.
My rig is a 2012 2 door JK rubi, automatic.
Click to expand...

Ah, now I see this :crazyeyes:

You need to budget in a new set of drive shafts with your build. I would still stick with 4.88's.
 
Eddie

Thanks for your thots.

Can you clarify this one for me?

"So long as you DO NOT put it in 4WD, you will be fine."

Does this mean I can leave the front driveshaft connected, and just do not put in 4WD? Or should I not install the driveshaft until after I get the rears regeared?




Also, I do have double cardan DS front and rear already.....

Ultimately, Im looking to upgrade my existing suspension setup....but wanted to do it in parts, due to cost.

I have sleeved, c's gussetted, RCVs, and Reids, with LCA skids on my front stock rubi axle, with the EVO drag link flip, synergy HD tie rod, JKS sector shaft brace, JKS adj font control arm. Stock 4:10 gears and stock rubi locker. I want to change this off and go with a PR44 Unl housing, and upgrade my lockers and regear at the same time.

Thanks again for your thoughts. Really appreciate this forum.
 
silversurfer575 said:
Eddie

Thanks for your thots.

Can you clarify this one for me?

"So long as you DO NOT put it in 4WD, you will be fine."

Does this mean I can leave the front driveshaft connected, and just do not put in 4WD? Or should I not install the driveshaft until after I get the rears regeared?
Click to expand...

Yes. So long as you DO NOT engage your 4WD, it won't matter that your front and rear gears do not have the same ratio.
 
silversurfer575 said:
Hi all.

Ive been reading a lot, learning a lot. Have made some investments in my build that I really should have not done (Reids, RCVs) because the parts wont carry over to a new PR44 UNL. Hoping to recoup some cost if I can sell my current built axle.

Heres where I want to go:

1. PR44 Unlimited Front Axle
2. EVO adj LA kit
3. EVO Bolt on Coilovers front and rear
4. regear to 4:56 or 4:88
5. King bumpstops
6: armor up the rear corners
7. Upgrade rear axle housing and shafts. Not sure what to do there yet.
8. ARB front and rear

I cannot afford to do all of this at once, so Im trying to figure out how to do this in pieces. I kinda screwed up by getting the RCVs and Reids for my current axle. I originally thought I would be able to use the RCVs and the REIDs with the PR 44. Misinformed, I can use the Reids, but may just leave them on my current axle and sell with that.

I do most all of the work on my Jeep except welding, alignment, and gears.

That being the case,

1. Can I install the PR44 in the front, with the ARB and the 4:56 or 4:88 gears installed, and run the 4:10 in the rear, for about 20 miles, until I can get it to a shop for the gearing in the rear? I could just not connect the driveshaft to the front......will that work?

2. I blew it on my current front axle. I thought I would be able to use the RCVs on the PR44, but realize that I cannot. For the rears, are there axle shaft, gearing, locker combos that I can do to the rear axle, that I can transfer to a heavier duty housing later? In other words, can I upgrade to ARBs, 4:56 or 4:88s, and heavy duty axle shafts (what brand do you suggest?) now?

3. Bolt on coilovers front and rear: Is it better to do the fronts first, then the rears, or ?

4. I hear I can run adj short arms with the coilovers. I have TF arms, which I will want to change out, and most likely go with the EVO LA, so I have more ground clearance. What are your thoughts about when I should do those? Before the PR44? Before the coilovers?

Note: I have a 4inch total lift between coils and spacers.
I run 35s and do not intend to go any higher.
My rig is a 2012 2 door JK rubi, automatic.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Click to expand...
1. Do not waste your money on a pr44 if you already have a rubi 44 the extra housing strength is not worth it just install some c gussets and sleeves and role with it. And no u have to have the same gear ratio's in both axles. (If you put it in 4wd) (With a 3.6 and 4.10 and 35s i would not invest in new gears)
2.confused
3.if u plan on doing evo bolt on coil overs it doesn't matter if you do the front of back first.
4. If you already have adjustable control arms i would be in too much of a hurry to upgrade to a LA.
-If your really looking for axle housing strength you can buy an artec truss much cheaper than a hole other housing but you really, really have to take your time welding on a truss because you can warp your housing with all the heat.
 
Last edited:
GR8WHITE said:
1. Do not waste your money on a pr44 if you already have a rubi 44 the extra housing strength is not worth it just install some c gussets and sleeves and role with it. And no u have to have the same gear ratio's in both axles. (If you put it in 4wd) (With a 3.6 and 4.10 and 35s i would not invest in new gears)
2.confused
3.if u plan on doing evo bolt on coil overs it doesn't matter if you do the front of back first.
4. If you already have adjustable control arms i would be in too much of a hurry to upgrade to a LA.
-If your really looking for axle housing strength you can buy an artec truss much cheaper than a hole other housing but you really, really have to take your time welding on a truss because you can warp your housing with all the heat.
Click to expand...

:cheesy::cheesy:

So much bad information in that post. I hope the OP listens to Eddies post instead.
 
GR8WHITE said:
1. Do not waste your money on a pr44 if you already have a rubi 44 the extra housing strength is not worth it just install some c gussets and sleeves and role with it......if your really looking for axle housing strength you can buy an artec truss much cheaper than a hole other housing but you really, really have to take your time welding on a truss because you can warp your housing with all the heat.
Click to expand...


By far the worst advice post this summer....,
 
uhh yea OP just ignore what gr8white said. he clearly smoked something today :shock:
 
GR8WHITE said:
1. Do not waste your money on a pr44 if you already have a rubi 44 the extra housing strength is not worth it just install some c gussets and sleeves and role with it.
Click to expand...

e5kcdzr.gif


2.5" OD .25 wall == 3" OD .5 wall?

Strength in Bending
Note: Values greater than one indicate an improvement in bending strength. For example, the stock housing
with a sleeve is 1.35 times as strong when compared to the stock housing without a sleeve.
Stock JK Axle 2.5” OD x 0.25” = 1.0
Stock JK Axle with 2.0" OD x 0.25" sleeve on inside of tube = 1.35
Dynatrac JK Trail Series – Stock JK Pumpkin with re-tube to 2.75" OD x 0.375" = 1.79
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Standard Axle Tube 3.0" OD x 0.3125" = 2.13
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Extreme Duty Axle Tube 3.0" OD x 0.5" = 2.82

Weight
Note: Values greater than one correspond to an increase in weight. The ratios below show that the sleeve is
one of the heaviest options.
Stock JK Axle 2.5” OD x 0.25” = 1.0
Stock JK Axle with 2.0" OD x 0.25" sleeve on inside = 1.78
Dynatrac JK Trail Series Axle Housing Tube 2.75" OD x 0.375" = 1.58
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Standard Axle Tube 3.0" OD x 0.3125" = 1.49
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Extreme Duty Axle Tube 3.0" OD x 0.5" = 2.22

Strength Per Pound Ratio
Note: This metric compares the strength improvement to the weight increase. Obviously, adding strength will
add weight, however, not every pound added leads to the same improvement in strength. Strength is a
combination of material properties and geometry in this case. Adding material to the outside of the axle tube
will result in a greater improvement of strength for the same weight of material added.
Stock JK = 1.0
Stock JK with sleeve = 0.76
Dynatrac Trail Series JK Axle = 1.13
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Standard Axle Tube = 1.43
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Extreme Duty Axle Tube = 1.27
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
LOL....thanks guys.....

What I like about this forum vs another one...is the fact that there is a good group of folks who chime in that know what they are talking about. I appreciate your passing on of your knowledge, and Ive yet to see Eddie steering someone the wrong direction.....
 
GR8WHITE said:
1. Do not waste your money on a pr44 if you already have a rubi 44 the extra housing strength is not worth it just install some c gussets and sleeves and role with it. And no u have to have the same gear ratio's in both axles. (If you put it in 4wd) (With a 3.6 and 4.10 and 35s i would not invest in new gears)
2.confused
3.if u plan on doing evo bolt on coil overs it doesn't matter if you do the front of back first.
4. If you already have adjustable control arms i would be in too much of a hurry to upgrade to a LA.
-If your really looking for axle housing strength you can buy an artec truss much cheaper than a hole other housing but you really, really have to take your time welding on a truss because you can warp your housing with all the heat.
Click to expand...

It's August 13th, not April 01.
 
silversurfer575 said:
LOL....thanks guys.....

What I like about this forum vs another one...is the fact that there is a good group of folks who chime in that know what they are talking about. I appreciate your passing on of your knowledge, and Ive yet to see Eddie steering someone the wrong direction.....
Click to expand...

Well, if I ever do steer you in the wrong direction, it'll be OverlanderJK's fault. I mean, it always is, right? :crazyeyes: :D
 
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