Make me correct.. Anyone who has evo coilover?

T

tkkim

New member
So if evo coilover kit install, my jeep won't need general spring? Because shock and coilover comes with together right?
 
would be nice to see how it looks at rear trunk space if you dont mind.
Thinking of just cutting the hole and mount it that way or break my piggy bank and do that EVOLever Kit without cutting.

if you dont mind photo would be great!
 
kimer82 said:
would be nice to see how it looks at rear trunk space if you dont mind.
Thinking of just cutting the hole and mount it that way or break my piggy bank and do that EVOLever Kit without cutting.

if you dont mind photo would be great!
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If you have a 4 door you can go through the tub no problem. With a 2 door u lose the back seat unless you also stretch it. Mine is stretched ~11". Link with more pics....don't wanna hijack.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?5189-rtguy1-Stretched-JK-in-Progress-Pics/page15
 
tkkim said:
If evo lever can avoid that lose of cargo
Space,I'd go that way...
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That's what I would do. I Just can't see filling up the cargo space with a box for the coilovers. Maybe if it was a designated trail rig, but even then I carry enough tools and spare parts that I wouldn't want to lose the space. 👍

Edit: but you don't need the evolever to run the bolt-on coilover kit.
 
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kimer82 said:
would be nice to see how it looks at rear trunk space if you dont mind.
Thinking of just cutting the hole and mount it that way or break my piggy bank and do that EVOLever Kit without cutting.

if you dont mind photo would be great!
Click to expand...

really one more thing.

what different between evo coilover with coil over long travel?
 
Let me fix it
Coilover sorry about that lol
My iPhone sucks change words for me


Branks ...
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MTG said:
That's what I would do. I Just can't see filling up the cargo space with a box for the coilovers. Maybe if it was a designated trail rig, but even then I carry enough tools and spare parts that I wouldn't want to lose the space. 

Edit: but you don't need the evolever to run the bolt-on coilover kit.
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It's not as bad as it looks. The box itself is 30" wide 11" tall. It's only 6" wide at the top and 10" wide at the bottom. The rear panel angles out to a wider base. Takes up the same space as a Coleman stove maybe. The benefits far outweigh the loss of space. The coilovers are mounted in a much better position and at a much better angle. The rear bolt ons are at a crazy angle rearward and very exposed. I'm also able to set the ride height much lower than the bolt on rear kit and still have plenty of up travel. Not to mention the clearance gained at the rear axle. With the rear seat out there's more room than a 4door with seats in. Regardless, as mtg said it is a trade off.

With that said, I would do the lever. I would not run the rear bolt on kit due to reasons above.
 
2k per axle is the bare min. if you decide to go with king bumpstop, double throw downs / levers than you are up at $8000 + range.

since i do not run my rig fast on sand dunes or any trails, i would be ok to just go with 2.0 or 2.5 weld on kit.
 
kimer82 said:
2k per axle is the bare min. if you decide to go with king bumpstop, double throw downs / levers than you are up at $8000 + range.

since i do not run my rig fast on sand dunes or any trails, i would be ok to just go with 2.0 or 2.5 weld on kit.
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ya lever and DTD is a whole different deal. but i believe you can get both front and back coils over done for about $5500 or somewhere there in abouts

andrew -
 
$3600 for the bolt on coilovers, front lower control arms and front driveshaft for both models of jk's and rear upper control arms and rear driveshaft on 2 drs. Plus you'll need 3.5" back spaced wheels and its recommended to address your steering geometry by doing something like the EVO draglink flip kit.
 
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