Lost a front axle seal- now what.

zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
I lost my passenger front axle seal, she's dripping gear lube and making a daily puddle. I did some research and the diff and axles have to come out. Can I pop the carrier out myself and put it all back without re-setting it all up again? Or does backlash have to be redone? Do I need a diff spreader? Say screw it and take it to the dealer or an off-road shop?

While I got all this apart- maybe I should do ball joints too? I'm on stockers with 37k miles.

What about axle shaft upgrades?

Or say f-it and order a Dynatrac PR44 with the joints already there? But then I need someone to swap my rubi locker and 4.88's over to it anyways.

My stock Rubi D44 already has gussets, poison spyder cover, welded on synergy trackbar bracket, tabs for the psc hydro cylinder, and drilled knuckle for the drag link flip.
 
You can just take out your carrier and then put it back in after changing the seals, as long as you keep track of the shim stacks on each side of the carrier and put them back as they came out.

You probably will not need a spreader. A small pry bar should suffice. Just be ready to catch the carrier when it pops out. It is heavy and slippery.

Be sure to disconnect the locker wiring harness. Also keep track of the left and right bearing caps.
 
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I changed my seals last fall and the carrier fell out after removing the bolts! Luckily there was only one shim per side. The job isn't actually that difficult to perform. I bought the Yukon axle seal tool to help press in the seals. Just watch out for those plastic guides that come from the factory inside the axle shaft. I took one out not knowing there were two per side.


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fiend said:
You can just take out your carrier and then put it back in after changing the seals, as long as you keep track of the shim stacks on each side of the carrier and put them back as they came out.

You probably will not need a spreader. A small pry bar should suffice. Just be ready to catch the carrier when it pops out. It is heavy and slippery.

Be sure to disconnect the locker wiring harness. Also keep track of the left and right bearing caps.
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^ Yep. Pry bar and block of wood. Also, if you loosen the bolts but leave a few bolt threads in the case with the caps still in place, when you pry out the carrier, the caps will keep the carrier from falling on the floor but will loosen it safely and then you can remove the bolts fully.

IMG_20180620_152512_592.jpg
 
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zimm said:
Good a diy project. Do I take the plastic rings out that you mentioned?
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When you pull the shaft out, shine a light in the housing tubes no matter what. If the plastic guides are in there (like the pics below), you can easily remove them with a piece of bailing wire with a hooked end. Then just put the guides back on the axle shaft before you put it in during re-assembly. There may be several, so don't just assume there is one per side. Take them all out.

IMG_20171022_152319_214.jpg

IMG_20171022_152506_075.jpg
 
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JeepinLife said:
Is this a rubicon d44 ? If so I used the ac part number but either will work


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Yup, rubi D44. The AC part number only get's my $220 prices. The AB part number gets me $22 prices. Maybe I just to suck it up and buy them from the dealership.

Now I'm researching RCV vs Revolution front axle shafts with full circle clip 1350's.
 
Yea I see that now. I didn’t pay that... they’re always making changes to certain parts so it could be the aa part # now. Yea just call the dealer and tell them what ya need and see what they pull for the new pn’s


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the amazon one is messed up. run that same part number on something like moparonlineparts.com and it like $16 or so. it is replaced with a newer version.68304271AA
 
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toyotire said:
the amazon one is messed up. run that same part number on something like moparonlineparts.com and it like $16 or so. it is replaced with a newer version.68304271AA
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Thanks for the updated part number, rock auto has them for $10.
 
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