Locker disengaged(pics) feels locked.

[ttfhell]

Made the mistake of using my front locker today. Always engages ok but have to use the ol' screwdriver trick to disengage. Did the trick, looked right felt wrong. Repeated. Still felt locked as steering is hard when slow, tires chirping, and under/oversteers at speed. Drove home from Azusa Canyon Fun! Pulled diff thinking maybe the bottom of the ring still engaged. Took these pics. Looks about as un-engaged as it gets. Jacked front end off ground both tires spin same direction when hand turned. Now wont engage either.
Used it when I got hung up on front diff/driveshaft. Ended up getting strapped back. Heard a slight pop when getting strapped. Don't know.

Drag link was already bent a little. Filed down the driveshaft a bit on the rock and nocked the cap loose. None of which I think have any direct effect on my problem. Any ideas? What did I break? Is there something obvious my newbieness is missing? Axle shaft?
Thanks
Russ



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[jeeeep]

when my front locker feels like it's not disengaging I always back up about 20' and it disengages.

 

[ttfhell]

when my front locker feels like it's not disengaging I always back up about 20' and it disengages.

Thanks I've tried this no luck. The problem is the pictures show the dog clutch fully disengaged. Yet drives liked locked. I'm out of patience and ideas but thanks again. Maybe the lockers inners are trashed.

 

[bob-o12jk]

This happened to my rear locker a while back, if your jk is still under warranty, take it to the dealer so they can look at it.
They replaced mine for free, its a known problem for these rubi lockers

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[wayoflife]

For as big as you have your Jeep now, I think it's time to start thinking about getting an ARB. That is, so long as you haven't installed sleeves.

Even if you can get this replaced under warranty, it's only a matter of time before it breaks again. Ask me how I know.

 

[ttfhell]

Thanks Eddie, but they are sleeved. Sighs. If not replaced under warranty I can't go ARB without replacing the whole housing as the shafts won't fit in the sleeves right?
Just to confirm the dog clutch in the pic looks un-engaged right?


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[wayoflife]

Thanks Eddie, but they are sleeved. Sighs. If not replaced under warranty I can't go ARB without replacing the whole housing as the shafts won't fit in the sleeves right?
Just to confirm the dog clutch in the pic looks un-engaged right?


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yup, looks disengaged to me and, you are correct, bigger spline shafts, something you would need with an ARB cannot be installed if you have sleeves. sorry.

 

[ttfhell]

yup, looks disengaged to me and, you are correct, bigger spline shafts, something you would need with an ARB cannot be installed if you have sleeves. sorry.

You're supposed to say "absolutely you can make it work by using part xxxx" not agree and ruin my Monday
Staying with 37's so is PR44 the next step you think? My slabs just got in and pretty sure they have a different bolt pattern than PR60. Not sure if I want to spend 8k if I don't need to.
Thx Russ


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[DJCFHB]

If you have nitro sleeves ARB's will work.

 

[ttfhell]

Thanks for the reply but they are Evo sleeves....


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[wayoflife]

You're supposed to say "absolutely you can make it work by using part xxxx" not agree and ruin my Monday
Staying with 37's so is PR44 the next step you think? My slabs just got in and pretty sure they have a different bolt pattern than PR60. Not sure if I want to spend 8k if I don't need to.
Thx Russ

LOL!! Sorry about that and yeah, I would work at getting a PR44. With 37's, it's all that you really need.

 

[ttfhell]

LOL!! Sorry about that and yeah, I would work at getting a PR44. With 37's, it's all that you really need.

Besides the chromoly shafts, what are the must have options I need? Ball joints for sure. Thicker tubes? I saw they make a 44/60 hybrid of some sort. Locking manual hubs?
Thx


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[wayoflife]

Besides the chromoly shafts, what are the must have options I need? Ball joints for sure. Thicker tubes? I saw they make a 44/60 hybrid of some sort. Locking manual hubs?
Thx


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You can only get locking hubs with a 44/60 but, for the price, I would just go for the 60 as it's not that much more. If you go with the PR44, I would get the Unlimited version as it comes with 1/2" thick tubes, outboard shock mounts and built in 6° of caster. Chromoly shafts are a must with an ARB. I personally would save your money on things like orange knuckles and use that money to get ProSteer ball joints. I would also recommend that you get a heavy duty tie-rod like the kind the Currie makes.

 

[ttfhell]

You can only get locking hubs with a 44/60 but, for the price, I would just go for the 60 as it's not that much more. If you go with the PR44, I would get the Unlimited version as it comes with 1/2" thick tubes, outboard shock mounts and built in 6° of caster. Chromoly shafts are a must with an ARB. I personally would save your money on things like orange knuckles and use that money to get ProSteer ball joints. I would also recommend that you get a heavy duty tie-rod like the kind the Currie makes.

Thanks. Maybe a stupid question but if I get a PR44 up front and need to upgrade the rear later I have to go to a 60 which would take a different size wheel than the front right?


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[wayoflife]

Thanks. Maybe a stupid question but if I get a PR44 up front and need to upgrade the rear later I have to go to a 60 which would take a different size wheel than the front right?


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While you might be able to get a rear semi-float 60 with a 5x5 bolt patter, you would be better served getting a 5x5.5 or even 8 lug and get new wheels to go with it. Up front, you will be narrow anyway so you can run wheel adapters to convert the bolt patter to the new wheels and give you a more even stance.

 

[ttfhell]

While you might be able to get a rear semi-float 60 with a 5x5 bolt patter, you would be better served getting a 5x5.5 or even 8 lug and get new wheels to go with it. Up front, you will be narrow anyway so you can run wheel adapters to convert the bolt patter to the new wheels and give you a more even stance.

Sounds like a bargain. Thx for the replies.


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[TheDuff]

Feeling a sweet deal on some slabs coming up! I call dibs

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[ttfhell]

Feeling a sweet deal on some slabs coming up! I call dibs

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Sorry man Keeping those for hopefully a year or two as I don't have 16k to do front and rear but selling the methods.


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[jeeeep]

While you might be able to get a rear semi-float 60 with a 5x5 bolt patter, you would be better served getting a 5x5.5 or even 8 lug and get new wheels to go with it. Up front, you will be narrow anyway so you can run wheel adapters to convert the bolt patter to the new wheels and give you a more even stance.

more what?? I've also been reading and trying to decide which upgrade to go with, so far I have narrowed it down to PR44 Unlmtd but still working on the rest. If I understand, if I upgrade the rear, D60 is the only option? The PR44 is the same width as stock correct? I don't plan to go larger than 37's which is what begin all my searching... too many upgrades :doh:

 

[wayoflife]

more what?? I've also been reading and trying to decide which upgrade to go with, so far I have narrowed it down to PR44 Unlmtd but still working on the rest. If I understand, if I upgrade the rear, D60 is the only option? The PR44 is the same width as stock correct? I don't plan to go larger than 37's which is what begin all my searching... too many upgrades :doh:

If you get a standard Trail 60, you can get that the same width as a JK axle but, if you go ProRock 60 like you should, it'll be wider. The wheel adapters up front will not only allow you to bolt up wheels with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern, it'll also help to make your front axle width about the same as the rear.