Locker at re-gear time?

Rivertoys

Rivertoys

New member
Is it a huge deal to add a locker after you re-gear, or should it always be done at the same time as the re-gear, if possible?

Cost all at once is the main issue I'm thinking about. Leaning towards regear now, and locker later (Since I've never had a locker in 24 years of owning 4x4s, I'm not missing anything...yet). Also, if only one axle has a locker, should it be front or rear? I am thinking the rear for me....since I have a 30/44 combo, I'm putting it in the stronger axle.

Thanks!
Jason.
 
Problem is, if you don't do both at the same time, you will have to pay for labor twice. It's the same process to install a locker as it is to regear.
 
The guesstimate I got was around $250 per axle savings if you do it during a regear.

Lockers allow you to lock your axles together in the differential so both wheels are getting the same power. It gives you much better traction.
 
Skirmish said:
The guesstimate I got was around $250 per axle savings if you do it during a regear.
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$250 is probably the cost of a new master kit - then add labor could be other upgrades!

I'd save and do it all at once if you're planning for a locker soon
 
If your axle is in good shape you should only be paying labor and the locker parts which you would need anyway. The difference being when they swap gears you are already getting the diff open and the carrier out. They would need new fluids, reseal, etc but the biggest cost is going to be pulling apart the diff and reloading it.

As far as which to lock it depends on long term plans and how you will use it. I talked to our local shop for awhile about my Sport. Front d30, rear d44. The problem with locking the d30 is strength and spline count. Stock is 27 spline so if you don't at least upgrade the shafts you are stuck with a locker made for 27 spline shafts. You can lock with those shafts but unless you are easy on the gas it probably won't last long. If you upgrade the shafts you are starting to put a lot of money into a d30 when you might be better off with a used d44 or a pr44.

The d44 rear IMHO would be the better choice to lock if you only do one as it can handle more stress and unless you are going big tires you will probably stay with a d44 rear.
 
wayoflife said:
Problem is, if you don't do both at the same time, you will have to pay for labor twice. It's the same process to install a locker as it is to regear.
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Unless its selectable and they have to run air lines, electric cables and switching, etc.

Auto full vase or lunch boxy jets are drop on at the time of installing gears, but most ships charge more for a selectable.
 
Rays0852 said:
Unless its selectable and they have to run air lines, electric cables and switching, etc.

Auto full vase or lunch boxy jets are drop on at the time of installing gears, but most ships charge more for a selectable.
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If you're having a shop do the work, it would be my recommendation to install an ARB. You can install a lunch box locker yourself.
 
wayoflife said:
If you're having a shop do the work, it would be my recommendation to install an ARB. You can install a lunch box locker yourself.
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I am not familiar with the term lunchbox locker, but what about an Eaton ELocker? Is that something I can take on myself after the regear?

I’m handy enough around the garage, and tools aren’t an issue, but I don’t want to take on setting up new gears.
 
A lunch box locker is a simple drop in auto locker like Aussie that if you currently have an open carrier you can easily install a lunchbox without pulling the gears. It is an easy driveway install. As far as I know, all mechanical and electric lockers require changing the carrier meaning pulling the ring gear out.
 
Rivertoys said:
Thanks! I stopped by ORE today. The ARB sounds like the only real choice for a locker.
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That's what I would say. At least going with ORE, you know you're getting a hell of a deal on gears anyway. Just save up a bit and it'll be worth your while - trust me :yup:
 
wayoflife said:
That's what I would say. At least going with ORE, you know you're getting a hell of a deal on gears anyway. Just save up a bit and it'll be worth your while - trust me :yup:
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Thanks! I have not pulled the triger on the gears yet. But I now have a good idea of what I want and what it will cost. I do not have almost any off-road miles on it the way it is now. I think want to get an idea of what I got, doing what I do, before making another change. ORE did say they aren't doing any 4:56s, and I really thought that's what I want, for what I do.... but I'll see after some time off-road how I feel.

While at ORE I picked up a drag link flip kit, and C gussets! Halfway though the flip kit install now. Looks like I need to shorten my track bar a bit now, then drill the knuckle, and I should be able to finish it up pretty quick. Then I just need to pound in my sleeves, and I'll be ready for Big Bear in a couple of weeks.....

Thanks to everyone for the replies, it helps a lot!
2thumbsup.gif
 
Rivertoys said:
Thanks! I have not pulled the triger on the gears yet. But I now have a good idea of what I want and what it will cost. I do not have almost any off-road miles on it the way it is now. I think want to get an idea of what I got, doing what I do, before making another change. ORE did say they aren't doing any 4:56s, and I really thought that's what I want, for what I do.... but I'll see after some time off-road how I feel.

While at ORE I picked up a drag link flip kit, and C gussets! Halfway though the flip kit install now. Looks like I need to shorten my track bar a bit now, then drill the knuckle, and I should be able to finish it up pretty quick. Then I just need to pound in my sleeves, and I'll be ready for Big Bear in a couple of weeks.....

Thanks to everyone for the replies, it helps a lot!
2thumbsup.gif
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Did they really said they aren't doing 4.56s?

Cuz I'm doing 4.56 tomorrow at ORE.
 
tkkim said:
Did they really said they aren't doing 4.56s?

Cuz I'm doing 4.56 tomorrow at ORE.
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Mel said made it clear it was my personal choice when I asked what he thought about doing 4:56s. I then asked if he had people who did 4:56s saying they wished they did 4:88s. He said they "don't even do 4:56s". Everyone is 4:88 or lower. I told him that was good to know. Then the girl yelled from the back that she didn't think 4:56s were even available anymore, and he repeated that to me, in case I didn't hear. He did add that there has been some recent interest in 4:56s with the new higher HP motor. He said in the time they have been open, he's done maybe 7 of them, and none in a very long time.
 
Rivertoys said:
Mel said made it clear it was my personal choice when I asked what he thought about doing 4:56s. I then asked if he had people who did 4:56s saying they wished they did 4:88s. He said they "don't even do 4:56s". Everyone is 4:88 or lower. I told him that was good to know. Then the girl yelled from the back that she didn't think 4:56s were even available anymore, and he repeated that to me, in case I didn't hear. He did add that there has been some recent interest in 4:56s with the new higher HP motor. He said in the time they have been open, he's done maybe 7 of them, and none in a very long time.
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O yea. What they said when i decided gear ratio...

But I'm 2012 d30 front with 34" tire. So I'm not crazy rock crawler and wanted to be more freeway friendly. Also it is my dd.

If i want bigger tire more than 35" later, i'd rather change whole axel to d60. And at that time, i'd do re-gear with 5.13
 
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