Lift Questions, and what about inner fender liners in snowy climates?

Ldogg

Ldogg

New member
I am looking to pull the trigger on a lift here soon for my 2door. I was leaning towards the RK 2.5" Max Travel with Bilsteins, but in doing research I keep coming back to the Enforcer Lift. I am not real knowledgeable in suspension, so I get confused quickly when looking at all my options. I see the enforcer only comes with Front LCA's where the RK has both front and Rear LCA's. Are these something I need to replace together? Does Evo make rear LCA's? Is the enforce kit fairly easy to bolt on? I was going to have a shop install the RK kit because of their Jamb Nut torque requirements, and the fact that I have never done that kind of work on a vehicle before. Do I need to/should I purchase any other items besides the shocks/draglink flip to install this kit? I would love to do the King Shocks, but I think I may end up with the Bilstein 5100's.


What all do I need to buy to setup the enforcer lift and if I decide later on to go from 35's to 37's, is it just a coil change I would need to do lift wise?


my other question is about removing the inner fender liner, mainly if I decide to get flat fenders. I would paint the rear tub, but are there issue with leaving it off in snowy climates? does it allow the engine bay to be cooler in the summer? just curious if i should re-use it and cut it down or leave the thing off if i swap out the fenders.

Thx,
Larry
 
I have been thinking about it all day and I am debating weather or not to just buy the enforcer kit then wait a month or so and buy the king spec 2.5 shocks and then wait another month and get a front driveshaft. So that would put me into march and I could install it at that point, then get my axles gusseted, order some slabs and then some 37" nittos in May. That would let me go to 37's but build out my axles and what not with the appropriate parts before I install. The more I think about it the more I am leaning that way. At this point what else should I get before going to 37's?
 
I took out my rear liners and heavily coated them with matte black rustoleum rattle can to help inhibit rust. The fronts I trimmed and pinned. I want to limit road grime and salt slung up into my engine bay as much as possible
 
you dont need all the control arms, fronts to set castor. evo doesn't make rears, but i would look into some rear currie lower arms later down the road. evo and currie use johnny joints on both ends. most ditch the rear liner and trim the front to keep your engine bay cleaner.
 
also rancho 7000mt are cheaper than bilsteins and are comparable, evo has that jam nut that tightens with allen wrenches.
 
First of all get a good lift that has as many adjustable control arms as you can afford. If you put a lift kit on your jeep you will want the highway behavior as good as a stock Jeep. Cheap lifts with bad steering geometry is the biggest complaint you will see on the jeep forums, lots of complaints of drift / darting and bump steer, all problems created by bad alignment mostly due to non adjustable control arms. Most manufacturers have kits with adjustable control arms just be prepared to spend the money. I personally don't recommend cam bolts, a cheap way around adjustable control arms.
If your intentions are to run 37" tires you open up a whole new batch of problems. You will need to gusset your C's and sleeve your axles or you will very likely bend stuff unless you never get off road. You will still want to regear your axles or you will be very unhappy with your jeep that will never run in high gear or overdrive, that's another $1500. All doable but expensive, which may not be a problem for you, just a heads up on lots more cost to run 37". They sure look good though and the additional clearance can make a real difference when crawling rocks.
 
After thinking about it all day I think my plan is to buy in a couple stages for the next few months and then install everything at once.

So no matter what I would get;

Enforcer kit with dragline flip kit
EVO spec 2.5 king shocks
A New front driveshaft
Rockstar lca skids
Atx slabs

Then if I go 37's
Gussets and truss for front and back
Gears

What about power steering or steering links?
 
Seems the general consensus I have read is that sleeves or trusses on the stock axles are a waste of money. People still have failures after those mods, so perhaps better to save that coin and use it for something else (like a long term bigger axle fund). Gussets on the C's are pretty much mandatory, but other than that you may wish to run them as is.

As was previously said, probably want a re-gear, especially in CO since you have a lot of long and steep grades. The prices on that seem to be all over the map, with some shops doing it for 1k (evo) and others gouging at 1k per axle...
 
Ldogg said:
After thinking about it all day I think my plan is to buy in a couple stages for the next few months and then install everything at once.

So no matter what I would get;

Enforcer kit with dragline flip kit
EVO spec 2.5 king shocks
A New front driveshaft
Rockstar lca skids
Atx slabs

Then if I go 37's
Gussets and truss for front and back
Gears

What about power steering or steering links?
Click to expand...

Gusset your axle now. You can bend your c's with stock tires.

Being you have a two door you want rear uppers as well.
 
OverlanderJK said:
Gusset your axle now. You can bend your c's with stock tires.

Being you have a two door you want rear uppers as well.
Click to expand...

So front lca's and rear uppers?

If EVO only makes front lca's then, should I look at currie for the rears? Also what about the uppers brand wise?
 
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Ok, I found the currie arms in pairs. At this point should I just go all in and replace all of them? I mean it's not that much more in the long run.
 
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