Lift HELP!!!

T

t.l.harris

New member
I am looking for a 4ish inch lift for my 2011 JKUR. I would like to get it ordered in the next couple of weeks...So please help(hoping to have it on for MOAB!!!!) I want a complete kit, I do not want a Long Arm. I am currently looking to spend 1500ish...

Who sells the best lift. The lift must be complete.

Also will a 4 inch lift require new Drive Shafts? I am not going to go crazy at Moab but would like to avoid beating the crap out of the bottom of my rig!!

Thanks ahead for the HELP!!
 
Is there a reason why you want to go so tall and not run long arms? I hate to say it but there really are no complete kits available for $1500. For a budget like that, you're gonna have to get a kit with what you need to make it work but that's about it. Or, you could get something like a Rancho Sport kit but, that will use drop brackets to correct your suspension geometry.

Regarding drive shafts, yes, you will need one up front if you have an automatic and you will need one in the rear if you have a 2-door.
 
I am pretty handy in the shop, but I dont know how comfortable I am with putting a long arm on...That is the only reason for not wanting one and obviously the cost.

How much would I need to spend to get a good lift and "complete" kit. This is one that I am looking at... http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=BDS_4.5_lift_4D

I'm open to suggestions and opinions!! This is my first coil spring suspension. My other rock crawler is a 78 cj and it has leafs so this is new territory for me.

Thanks,

Travis
 
Spend a bit more and get something worth your money, like this if your set on a 4in lift http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO-ENFORCER-KIT

Really the jk doesn't seem to need such a large lift to accommodate a tire up to 37in.

1359247770239.jpg
Here is mine on just a terra flex 2.5 coil lift and 33in toyo's. But this lift could fit 35's with slight rub on uncut fenders and I'm sure 37's with cut fenders (if not either a body lift or slightly larger bump stop would fix it)
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t.l.harris said:
I am pretty handy in the shop, but I dont know how comfortable I am with putting a long arm on...That is the only reason for not wanting one and obviously the cost.

How much would I need to spend to get a good lift and "complete" kit. This is one that I am looking at... http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=BDS_4.5_lift_4D

I'm open to suggestions and opinions!! This is my first coil spring suspension. My other rock crawler is a 78 cj and it has leafs so this is new territory for me.

Thanks,

Travis
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The BDS kit you're looking at only comes with fixed lower arms, adjustable rear upper arms but no adjustable front uppers. While this kit will allow you to set your pinion angle in the rear, it provides no means to set your caster up front. Also, it does come with track bar relocation brackets and a dropped pitman arm but, I personally would recommend that you install a draglink flip/track bar reolcation bracket up front instead. The shocks you would get are just basic old school hydros and they will not give you a very good ride. Of course, this is to say nothing about the need for new drive shafts and, you would need a rear one at this height if you have a 2-door and one up front if you have an 07-11 automatic or a 2012-up.

Are you planning on running 37's?
 
I forgot to mention, at this lift height a front drive shaft is still a good idea, I'm on the stocker still, but it hits the skid plate and already ripped the boot off. So its only s matter of time

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Although well above ur price point u posted: I heard on the grape vine that the evo coil overs can be used on short arm.

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I want to go to 37's, I know I will need to gusset and sleeve my axles. Eddie mine is a four door. What lift height would be the best? And what will get me what I need to fit 37's?

Thanks for the input duff. Can you put that lift on with the stock control arms? Your pinion angle would be off wouldn't it?
 
photo 3.jpg

This is the jeep I want to lift. It is completely stock inside and out. I am going to moab for EJS. I am not going to do anything crazy because it is no where close to what it needs to be. But I've never been to EJS and I know this is capable of some of the "easy" trails. My hopes for the lift are to keep me from beating the crap out of the bottom. Would I be better off holding off on the lift and tires for now and just adding the Evo under belly armor and rock rails?? Then after Moab spending the money and putting a long arm on it? If so what long arm kit would you recommend?
 
t.l.harris said:
I want to go to 37's, I know I will need to gusset and sleeve my axles. Eddie mine is a four door. What lift height would be the best? And what will get me what I need to fit 37's?
Click to expand...

You need to gusset your axle C's but you don't need to sleeve it. If you have an 07-11 with an automatic, you will need to get a new front drive shaft. If you have a 2012-up, you will need to get a new front drive shaft. For 37's, 4" of lift is about what you'll want to be running but, I would highly recommend that you get a kit that, at bare minimum, does a better job of addressing your steering geometry (draglink flip/front track bar relocation bracket) and caster (adjustable front lower control arms). That is hard to do with just $1500 especially if you need to spend $450 for a front drive shaft.

t.l.harris said:
This is the jeep I want to lift. It is completely stock inside and out. I am going to moab for EJS. I am not going to do anything crazy because it is no where close to what it needs to be. But I've never been to EJS and I know this is capable of some of the "easy" trails. My hopes for the lift are to keep me from beating the crap out of the bottom. Would I be better off holding off on the lift and tires for now and just adding the Evo under belly armor and rock rails?? Then after Moab spending the money and putting a long arm on it? If so what long arm kit would you recommend?
Click to expand...

With the exception of your oil pan and your transmission pan (if you have a 2012-up) which have no protection at all, your factory skids are more than enough to handle any trail in Moab, the Rubicon and even the Hammers. It would be a good idea to protect the things that have no protection and then address everything else.
 
wayoflife said:
You need to gusset your axle C's but you don't need to sleeve it. If you have an 07-11 with an automatic, you will need to get a new front drive shaft. If you have a 2012-up, you will need to get a new front drive shaft. For 37's, 4" of lift is about what you'll want to be running but, I would highly recommend that you get a kit that, at bare minimum, does a better job of addressing your steering geometry (draglink flip/front track bar relocation bracket) and caster (adjustable front lower control arms). That is hard to do with just $1500 especially if you need to spend $450 for a front drive shaft.
Click to expand...

Mine is a 2011 automatic so I will need to gusset, drive shaft, and probably rims or spacers. I seen you put a good write on here about back spacing. If I have the money I would like to go with bead locks and an offset, but that way more pricey than a back spacer. After all of this I will probably just wait and do a 3.5 or 4 inch LA. Who's long arm do you prefer?

wayoflife said:
With the exception of your oil pan and your transmission pan (if you have a 2012-up) which have no protection at all, your factory skids are more than enough to handle any trail in Moab, the Rubicon and even the Hammers. It would be a good idea to protect the things that have no protection and then address everything else.
Click to expand...

I looked earlier, I didn't see much armor underneath my oil pan or transmission...I found it a little odd that their wasn't any protection their. There is however a skid plate for the t-case. I will look again tomorrow. If there isn't any I will probably be ordering the oil and transmission skid plate or just the whole skid system from EVO plus I like the look of their rock rails. So I will have to pick a set of those up as well.

Have you had any problems with your gas tank skid plate?
 
t.l.harris said:
Mine is a 2011 automatic so I will need to gusset, drive shaft, and probably rims or spacers. I seen you put a good write on here about back spacing. If I have the money I would like to go with bead locks and an offset, but that way more pricey than a back spacer. After all of this I will probably just wait and do a 3.5 or 4 inch LA. Who's long arm do you prefer?



I looked earlier, I didn't see much armor underneath my oil pan or transmission...I found it a little odd that their wasn't any protection their. There is however a skid plate for the t-case. I will look again tomorrow. If there isn't any I will probably be ordering the oil and transmission skid plate or just the whole skid system from EVO plus I like the look of their rock rails. So I will have to pick a set of those up as well.

Have you had any problems with your gas tank skid plate?
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Yeah, 2011's didn't come with a tranny skid, only a "skid bar". I would definitely recommend that you get something like the EVO skid for it.

As far as long arm kits go, I'm partial to the EVO kit but only because it's the only one that can handle the BIG flex their coil overs provide.
 
You can buy the Enforcer kit for just under $1500 WITH the draglink flip kit. Pick up some bilstein 5100 shocks and be good to go in the lift category.
 
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