Leaking transmission cooler line.

TormentedCrawler

New member
IMG_1476421869.759106.jpgsadly my vin didn't make the recall. But I've seen some people who have replaced it with a new rubber hose and a double worm clamp on each end. For those who have ran this quick fix. How is it holding up?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
View attachment 227047sadly my vin didn't make the recall. But I've seen some people who have replaced it with a new rubber hose and a double worm clamp on each end. For those who have ran this quick fix. How is it holding up?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

I did it for a while but it wasn't the best solution, I ended up cutting the tube ends off so I could get enough line to run up the steel tubing to stop the leaking. I forget what the actual hose size was that I ended up using, but the factory size hose is too big, after I spent hours doing the temporary repair, they begin to leak again after a few wheeling trips.

When I called the Chrysler I was told I was not covered by the recall so I ended up buying the factory lines and installing them myself. But on a different recall call to Chrysler, my transmission lines came up and the rep informed me Chrysler had different criteria to determine if it fell under the recall and he felt my lines should have been covered by the recall. After he went through a few questions, it was determined I did qualify and they reimbursed me for the lines.

I'd call Chrysler and talk to a rep, the lines aren't actually that hard to replace but it is messy and would be better to let the dealer fix them
 
I replaced mine when I did my filter and fluid. It was a pain in the ass, but I'm good to go now. I used a non OEM line from Advanced Auto that looked like it was higher quality at those joints. Pro tip: don't lose those clips. Aftermarket ones are shaped weird & not designed to fit under the safety caps. The lines, transmission filter, and fluid took me most of a Sunday. I'm a rookie though.


Sent from my duck blind.
 
I did the same. Even added an aftermarket cooler. Bypassed the old cooler. Cut the ends where it was leaking and clamped on new rubber hose. Been that way for 2 years now no more leaky leak

sent from some burner phone found in a dumpster
 
I did the same. Even added an aftermarket cooler. Bypassed the old cooler. Cut the ends where it was leaking and clamped on new rubber hose. Been that way for 2 years now no more leaky leak

sent from some burner phone found in a dumpster

I was going to go this route, but it looked like more work....

IMG_1476469230.343423.jpg


Sent from my duck blind.
 
Ended up getting the full oem supply/return lines with the jiffy tite disconnect. Cost $120 shipped for everything. It would be $14 less but I upgraded my shipping to 2 day.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

few tips:

get a quart or 2 of transmission fluid, you'll need to refill some after.


if you jack up the driver side and let it rest on jacks stands - let it lean to passenger, you'll have less transmission fluid leak when you remove the transmission case side lines (remove transmission case lines last)

pay attention to how the c-clips are on before you remove them. you'll need to put them on the same direction to keep the line locked in and the plastic security cap to fit properly

remove the front line clips 1st - make sure you do it slow and try to keep an eye or your hand over the c-cliip - they will fly off and are hard to find. i tucked an old towel under and around after losing the 1st one

when removing the clips on the transmission lay papers or spill mat, you will still get some trans fluid leaking out. again keep an eye on the direction of the c-clips and don't let them fly off

before you remove the lines completely pay attention to how it is in reference to the other existing lines, especially in the front. push the lines as far forward as you need to clear the rear of the transmission end lines then you can drop it a bit and pull the whole assembly out towards the back. snake the new lines in reverse.

put the c-clips back in until they are seated, the plastic lock cover should fit as is was when you removed it.

it's not that hard just be methodical and it'll take about 30 minutes
 
Pay close attention to how they go up & through the front end. I ran my lines Along side the old ones to make sure I did them right


Sent from my duck blind.
 
few tips:

get a quart or 2 of transmission fluid, you'll need to refill some after.


if you jack up the driver side and let it rest on jacks stands - let it lean to passenger, you'll have less transmission fluid leak when you remove the transmission case side lines (remove transmission case lines last)

pay attention to how the c-clips are on before you remove them. you'll need to put them on the same direction to keep the line locked in and the plastic security cap to fit properly

remove the front line clips 1st - make sure you do it slow and try to keep an eye or your hand over the c-cliip - they will fly off and are hard to find. i tucked an old towel under and around after losing the 1st one

when removing the clips on the transmission lay papers or spill mat, you will still get some trans fluid leaking out. again keep an eye on the direction of the c-clips and don't let them fly off

before you remove the lines completely pay attention to how it is in reference to the other existing lines, especially in the front. push the lines as far forward as you need to clear the rear of the transmission end lines then you can drop it a bit and pull the whole assembly out towards the back. snake the new lines in reverse.

put the c-clips back in until they are seated, the plastic lock cover should fit as is was when you removed it.

it's not that hard just be methodical and it'll take about 30 minutes

Thank you for the tips. I purchased the jiffy tire quick disconnect and it's suppose keep the clips in place. Luckily my car is actually parked on a slope where the driver side is higher but I've been scarred to do the trans pan drop since i was under the influenced it had to be flat.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Thank you for the tips. I purchased the jiffy tire quick disconnect and it's suppose keep the clips in place. Luckily my car is actually parked on a slope where the driver side is higher but I've been scarred to do the trans pan drop since i was under the influenced it had to be flat.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

you won't have to drop the transmission pan to change the lines.

I wish I had researched out for that Jiffy Tite, that'll speed things up a lot!
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom