Leaking axle seals again

Red Knight15

Red Knight15

Caught the Bug
1500 miles and my new seals are leaking already. 35 Spline Nitro shafts in ProRock 44.
Noticed this groove worn into shaft when I replaced them last time. Thinking that’s the cause of my leaks. Shafts have roughly 27k on them. Anyone having issues with this?

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Red Knight15 said:
1500 miles and my new seals are leaking already. 35 Spline Nitro shafts in ProRock 44.
Noticed this groove worn into shaft when I replaced them last time. Thinking that’s the cause of my leaks. Shafts have roughly 27k on them. Anyone having issues with this?

View attachment 354796


Sent from Lookout Mtn.
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Ive seen stuff like this on higher mileage vehicles...like where a rear main seal grooves the crankshaft, etc. Is this occurring on both sides? Any chance of axle shaft or seal being the wrong part number?
 
WJCO said:
Ive seen stuff like this on higher mileage vehicles...like where a rear main seal grooves the crankshaft, etc. Is this occurring on both sides? Any chance of axle shaft or seal being the wrong part number?
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Yes sir. Both sides were leaking when I replaced them. Just the passenger side has started leaking again. May have to buy a spare set and send these to a machine shop. Doubtful Nitro will do anything . I have had them about 2.5 years, just haven’t put many miles on them.


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Red Knight15 said:
Yes sir. Both sides were leaking when I replaced them. Just the passenger side has started leaking again. May have to buy a spare set and send these to a machine shop. Doubtful Nitro will do anything . I have had them about 2.5 years, just haven’t put many miles on them.


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Can you actually feel that “groove”


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JKbrick said:
Can you actually feel that “groove”


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Yep. I should have measured it with calipers but I didn’t. It’s not a major groove but you feel it.
Seems like someone else had the same problem but I can’t find the thread.
Wouldn’t think rubber seals would wear into a steel shaft. I’m just that lucky [emoji41]


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Well that stinks.

Once the shafts get the grooves, you’ll struggle to keep them leak free even with new seals. Machining the shafts down to just below the minor groove diameter may make it worse as the OD of the shaft will be reduced at the seal contact area and may leak even more. Sounds Like new shafts are in order.


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bmkrinne said:
Well that stinks.

Once the shafts get the grooves, you’ll struggle to keep them leak free even with new seals. Machining the shafts down to just below the minor groove diameter may make it worse as the OD of the shaft will be reduced at the seal contact area and may leak even more. Sounds Like new shafts are in order.


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Probably tig weld the groove and turn it back down to size. Or maybe different seal Id sized seal.
I really don’t want to buy the same shafts and have problems again. When Bubba gets back in shop I’ll see what he recommends.



Sent from Lookout Mtn.
 
Being in the machine building and repair business, we see a lot of that. I suggest you find a local industrial chrome plater. Many have grinding capabilities or partner with a shop that’s close by. They will grind the seal contact area, chrome it up and re-grind back to size. Going directly to the chrome plater should give you the lowest cost since their overhead is usually less than your typical machine shop.

The chrome plating is much harder at >70rc vs the heat treated chromoly shaft material and should hold up for years.
 
sipafz said:
Being in the machine building and repair business, we see a lot of that. I suggest you find a local industrial chrome plater. Many have grinding capabilities or partner with a shop that’s close by. They will grind the seal contact area, chrome it up and re-grind back to size. Going directly to the chrome plater should give you the lowest cost since their overhead is usually less than your typical machine shop.

The chrome plating is much harder at >70rc vs the heat treated chromoly shaft material and should hold up for years.
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Good suggestion. I’ve had a few pump, motor and fan shafts repaired over the years with flame sprayed chrome and tungsten carbide coatings. The shaft usually holds up well afterwards. The undercut area would likely become the new weak point though on the Jeep shafts due to the reduced cross sectional area.

I would not weld up the axle shafts, as this will affect the heat treatment and change metallurgical properties in the heat affected areas. You could go back thru the heat treatment process but you’ll have increased costs associated with it and likely will not have a straight shaft afterwards.


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bmkrinne said:
Good suggestion. I’ve had a few pump, motor and fan shafts repaired over the years with flame sprayed chrome and tungsten carbide coatings. The shaft usually holds up well afterwards. The undercut area would likely become the new weak point though on the Jeep shafts due to the reduced cross sectional area.

I would not weld up the axle shafts, as this will affect the heat treatment and change metallurgical properties in the heat affected areas. You could go back thru the heat treatment process but you’ll have increased costs associated with it and likely will not have a straight shaft afterwards.


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I agreed on the welding, it will distort the shaft in most cases. Pre-heating the shaft prior to welding may help, but it’s risky.

The shaft would only require minimal grinding so I don’t think the weak point will be an issue. I would grind the damaged area to .006” (inches) on the diameter or until the groove disappears. Chrome plating doesn’t need to be very thick for adhesion. I shoot for .003” minimum thickness after final grind.
 
sipafz said:
I agreed on the welding, it will distort the shaft in most cases. Pre-heating the shaft prior to welding may help, but it’s risky.

The shaft would only require minimal grinding so I don’t think the weak point will be an issue. I would grind the damaged area to .006” (inches) on the diameter or until the groove disappears. Chrome plating doesn’t need to be very thick for adhesion. I shoot for .003” minimum thickness after final grind.
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Roughly how much should a shop charge me for that? Don’t wanna get screwed over.


Sent from Lookout Mtn.
 
It sounds like you are on the right path.

I suspect the groove may have been caused by mud getting in the housing, and some getting stuck in the lip of the seal, grinding its way into the shaft.
 
jdofmemi said:
It sounds like you are on the right path.

I suspect the groove may have been caused by mud getting in the housing, and some getting stuck in the lip of the seal, grinding its way into the shaft.
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Does the orange rubber cups on RCV shafts seal the axle tube from letting dirt go in it? Was considering them since I don’t daily Brick. This thread made me think of it more


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jdofmemi said:
It sounds like you are on the right path.

I suspect the groove may have been caused by mud getting in the housing, and some getting stuck in the lip of the seal, grinding its way into the shaft.
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Jeep rarely gets in the mud. So I don’t think it had anything to do with it. But I may wrong.
Makes me question the quality of the shafts


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