JKU on Tons

pvkj454

pvkj454

Member
I am new to this forum and this is my first Jeep build. I have a few of my builds on Pirate under the same user name such as a Cummins powered K30, Ford F750, and a buggy build from a Wide Open Design chassis.

It is a wrecked 09 JKU that I am building for daily driver duties and maybe haul it out west every now and then. I am swapping in a 05 F250 D60 front and a 14 bolt rear axle using Artec kits. I am using Currie links and EVO 3" springs. Stock engine for now but it will probably get a LS in the future.

IMG_20201126_153005101.jpg
 
The frame was bent fairly bad so I am replacing it.

bent frame.jpg

I cleaned the replacement frame and painted it satin black.

painted frame.jpg

I straightened the left apron and replaced the right one.

aprons repaired.jpg

I found this on the original owners Facebook.

Orig owner.jpg
 
Welcome to Wayalife.

Nice project you have there. I will be interested in how this turns out.

One comment, take it for what it's worth. If you don't already have the 3" Evo springs, I would recommend 4".

I started with the 3", and drug on everything, plus anytime I drove aggressively, I was on the bumps hard all the time. When I went to 4", the ride is much better as I don't bottom out all the time, and I don't drag the belly nearly as much either.

That said, I'm not telling you what to do with your build, just sharing the experience I have with mine.
 
Welcome and congrats on the build. I just helped a good friend of mine finish up his 1 ton swap and while the job was a large undertaking, it came out great and was super rewarding for him.

Looking forward to seeing more.
Have fun with it.
 
jdofmemi said:
Welcome to Wayalife.

Nice project you have there. I will be interested in how this turns out.

One comment, take it for what it's worth. If you don't already have the 3" Evo springs, I would recommend 4".

I started with the 3", and drug on everything, plus anytime I drove aggressively, I was on the bumps hard all the time. When I went to 4", the ride is much better as I don't bottom out all the time, and I don't drag the belly nearly as much either.

That said, I'm not telling you what to do with your build, just sharing the experience I have with mine.
Click to expand...

I had 2nd thoughts after I bought them. The axle swap is supposed to add 1/2". I might install 1/2" spacers with the springs.
 
pvkj454 said:
I had 2nd thoughts after I bought them. The axle swap is supposed to add 1/2". I might install 1/2" spacers with the springs.
Click to expand...

I will second the above suggestion. After you get everything setup, brackets welded, steering made etc, you’ll find that even though the spring perches are a bit higher than the stock axles you’re going to need more clearance than what it looks like. The swap I just did was on 4.5” RK tripple rate springs and he too, thought that he’d have to go back to a 3.5” spring. After initial setup it was clear that the 3.5” springs weren’t going to provide enough clearance for various components. Even the 4.5” springs required additional bump stop adjustments to keep things in check.

Take it for what it’s worth... but having just gone through this I wanted to offer my experience.

Good luck with the project. Either way it’s gonna be awesome [emoji482]
 
Looks like a fun project. Looking forward to following the progress as this swap is also on my to do list. I am just tossing back and fourth between 14 bolt or sterling rear.


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QuicksilverJK said:
Looks like a fun project. Looking forward to following the progress as this swap is also on my to do list. I am just tossing back and fourth between 14 bolt or sterling rear.


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Click to expand...

Just my 2cents.... I have a shaved sterling rear in my tj and love it, BUT if I didn’t already have it and had to choose I would never go sterling over a 14bolt. 2 reasons only 14bolt has a 3rd pinion Bearing support and the ability to have a pinion guard put on. Sterling Does NOT. Cost to build are damn near the same.


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I got the body back on the frame with the drivetrain in place.
IMG_20210124_164341680.jpg

IMG_20210124_164516806.jpg


I bought new Timken front bearing hubs and had them drilled to 8 on 6.5. I drilled the rotors using a template. I used new Spicer ball joints, u-joints and seals. A Reid passenger knuckle and Artec high steer arm. I installed new Spicer 4.10 gears in the front axle. Since it will see mostly highway use I left the open front diff for now but I may add an air locker later.

IMG_20210128_174624804.jpg
 
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Curious why you decided on 4.10 gears? Seems like it’s gonna be a total dog. Until you put the V8 in I guess.


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Speedy_RCW said:
Curious why you decided on 4.10 gears? Seems like it’s gonna be a total dog. Until you put the V8 in I guess.

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Click to expand...

It will eventually get an LS (6.2 probably) and 6L80E and the 14 bolt already had 4.10 gears. I didn't want to re-gear and then swap back. If I hate the low power enough, it will be incentive to do the LS swap soon.
 
pvkj454 said:
It will eventually get an LS (6.2 probably) and 6L80E and the 14 bolt already had 4.10 gears. I didn't want to re-gear and then swap back. If I hate the low power enough, it will be incentive to do the LS swap soon.
Click to expand...

Lol, guess you should start looking for that LS.


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It is getting close to being finished. It is definitely no race car but I have driven worse. I have the castor at 4 degrees and it drives OK with a little wonder. I will try a steering stabilizer which will hopefully help. Has severe wind noise at the RH A-pillar to door that I need to repair.
 

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