A few questions (they're at the end after my novel if you prefer not reading) - I have a 2010 JK Unlimited Rubicon with the AEV 3.5 DS SC lift installed. I just bought this used in February with only 31,000 miles, and have started the task of replacing bushings and bolts, not only for the reasons that the bushings look like crap already (dry rotting is common here in Colorado), and that I've already had one bout of DW, but for peace of mind. So far, this is what I've done:
-Replaced bushings (Energy Suspension) and bolts (9/16" grade 8) in front and rear track bars.
-Replaced front & rear sway bar end links with JKS (bushings were shot, and the end link lock and jam nuts wouldn't torque all the way onto the upper sway bar junction, resulting in essentially loose links).
-Tightened all other nuts on suspension to proper specifications.
-Replaced very soft and exhausted Bilstein steering stabilizer with new OME unit.
-Analyzed the entire AEV lift kit for proper install per their most recently-published instructions (earlier versions, pre-2014, had the end links flipped to in-board install rather than stock outboard, but Jan 2014 edition states they should remain outboard on the rear and inboard on the front). Only found a couple of things - the rear track bar bolt (AEV's kit supplies a new track bar and tower for rear) on the driver side was installed incorrectly - inserted from rear to front - which had the end of the bolt rubbing on the coil spring and causing a funny squeaking/honking-type sound. Turning the bolts around the other direction (front to rear), stopped the rubbing, and the noise.
-Confirmed the drag link flip kit was installed, and control arm drop brackets included with AEV kit were present (they were, but they appear to have also used cam bolts, which I hear isn't the best approach).
-Boots on the rear Bilstein 5100s were completely off due to zip ties dry rotting. Reinstalled all with clamps instead of zip ties.
What I will be doing this weekend to finalize the clean up:
-Installing new 35x12.50x17 BFG KMRs to replace the current stock BFGs. Will retain stock wheels (already have 1.5" spacers installed). Unrelated to suspension work, part of my weekend to-do list entails Dupli-color lining of the stock rims.
-Replacing other nuts/bolts with 9/16" grade 8 (control arms mainly).
In the near future:
-Possibly remove AEV control arm brackets and replace stock arms with aftermarket adjustable. Not sure on this - I've read mixed opinions with this AEV lift kit, and am not worried about gaining what little additional clearance would be had from this option. May just weld on control arm skid plates and keep the stocks as they are pretty cheap to replace.
-Re-gear to 5.38s: shop locally does the entire Rubicon re-gearing for $875 out the door (a bit more if bearings and seals get replaced, which I would have him do while he was in there anyway).
-Remove wheel spacers and replace stock wheels with black AEV Pintlers.
And if you've made it this far, here are my questions:
I ordered replacement bushings for all 8 control arms from Energy Suspension. I understand that they apparently result in a less-smooth ride, and some have advised that for the price ($160 for front and rear bushing kits), I could easily find control arm take-offs and slap them in there to retain the stock feel and ride.
I have found a guy locally here in Denver that has what he claims to be the full set of control arms for sale off of his 2015 "JK Wrangler". His photo shows only six arms - four lower, and two upper.
Question 1) He says "full set", but only shows 6 in the photo. Aren't there four lower and four upper for a total of 8? Or do newer models or non-Rubicon styles have only 6 rather than 8?
Question 2) Is there a difference in quantity and/or quality between the JK Wrangler and the JK Rubicon, and 2015 vs. 2010, or are the CAs all the same regardless of body style and model year?
Question 3) Assuming he does have 8, and they are identical in design and quality to Rubicon (if his isn't a Rubi model), should there be a fitment concern when pulling from a 2015 and bolting to a 2010?
Question 4) Loctite on suspension bolts or no? If so, which ones? I've seen some use it everywhere, and some only in places. Specifically the track bars, end links and control arms?
He's asking $100 or best offer and just yanked them off of his 2015 with only 300 miles, so this is quite a bit cheaper and less effort than bushing replacement.
Thanks in advance for your help! Happy to be back on a Jeep forum (this is my 4th Wrangler, but it's been a while!).
-Replaced bushings (Energy Suspension) and bolts (9/16" grade 8) in front and rear track bars.
-Replaced front & rear sway bar end links with JKS (bushings were shot, and the end link lock and jam nuts wouldn't torque all the way onto the upper sway bar junction, resulting in essentially loose links).
-Tightened all other nuts on suspension to proper specifications.
-Replaced very soft and exhausted Bilstein steering stabilizer with new OME unit.
-Analyzed the entire AEV lift kit for proper install per their most recently-published instructions (earlier versions, pre-2014, had the end links flipped to in-board install rather than stock outboard, but Jan 2014 edition states they should remain outboard on the rear and inboard on the front). Only found a couple of things - the rear track bar bolt (AEV's kit supplies a new track bar and tower for rear) on the driver side was installed incorrectly - inserted from rear to front - which had the end of the bolt rubbing on the coil spring and causing a funny squeaking/honking-type sound. Turning the bolts around the other direction (front to rear), stopped the rubbing, and the noise.
-Confirmed the drag link flip kit was installed, and control arm drop brackets included with AEV kit were present (they were, but they appear to have also used cam bolts, which I hear isn't the best approach).
-Boots on the rear Bilstein 5100s were completely off due to zip ties dry rotting. Reinstalled all with clamps instead of zip ties.
What I will be doing this weekend to finalize the clean up:
-Installing new 35x12.50x17 BFG KMRs to replace the current stock BFGs. Will retain stock wheels (already have 1.5" spacers installed). Unrelated to suspension work, part of my weekend to-do list entails Dupli-color lining of the stock rims.
-Replacing other nuts/bolts with 9/16" grade 8 (control arms mainly).
In the near future:
-Possibly remove AEV control arm brackets and replace stock arms with aftermarket adjustable. Not sure on this - I've read mixed opinions with this AEV lift kit, and am not worried about gaining what little additional clearance would be had from this option. May just weld on control arm skid plates and keep the stocks as they are pretty cheap to replace.
-Re-gear to 5.38s: shop locally does the entire Rubicon re-gearing for $875 out the door (a bit more if bearings and seals get replaced, which I would have him do while he was in there anyway).
-Remove wheel spacers and replace stock wheels with black AEV Pintlers.
And if you've made it this far, here are my questions:
I ordered replacement bushings for all 8 control arms from Energy Suspension. I understand that they apparently result in a less-smooth ride, and some have advised that for the price ($160 for front and rear bushing kits), I could easily find control arm take-offs and slap them in there to retain the stock feel and ride.
I have found a guy locally here in Denver that has what he claims to be the full set of control arms for sale off of his 2015 "JK Wrangler". His photo shows only six arms - four lower, and two upper.
Question 1) He says "full set", but only shows 6 in the photo. Aren't there four lower and four upper for a total of 8? Or do newer models or non-Rubicon styles have only 6 rather than 8?
Question 2) Is there a difference in quantity and/or quality between the JK Wrangler and the JK Rubicon, and 2015 vs. 2010, or are the CAs all the same regardless of body style and model year?
Question 3) Assuming he does have 8, and they are identical in design and quality to Rubicon (if his isn't a Rubi model), should there be a fitment concern when pulling from a 2015 and bolting to a 2010?
Question 4) Loctite on suspension bolts or no? If so, which ones? I've seen some use it everywhere, and some only in places. Specifically the track bars, end links and control arms?
He's asking $100 or best offer and just yanked them off of his 2015 with only 300 miles, so this is quite a bit cheaper and less effort than bushing replacement.
Thanks in advance for your help! Happy to be back on a Jeep forum (this is my 4th Wrangler, but it's been a while!).
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