JK Rubicon Lockers Serviceable???

JoeB-JKURX

JoeB-JKURX

New member
I read on this forum quite a few instances where one or the other of the JK Rubicon lockers craps out. The general reaction is to replace it with another factory locker or an ARB RD157 (which requires 35 spline axle shafts). What isn't often described is the failure mode. Is it generally electrical or mechanical (or both). If electrical (say a solenoid is either an open circuit or shorted), is it serviceable (for example, is a solenoid available and can it be replaced ?). If mechanical (say a locker rod breaks), can that be replaced. The feeling I get from most of the postings is that, if it fails, the only remedy is to replace it. Does anyone have insight into what can be done other than replacing the locker? Thx
 
From my experience, the electromagnet is the main failure on them. The gap becomes too great between it and the corresponding plate and it can no longer properly lock and unlock.
Until recently, you couldn't get that magnet without purchasing the entire e locker carrier. But now ECGS (among others possibly) has them.
Replacing it is pretty simple once you have the carrier out of the vehicle.
Aside from the magnet issues, they seem pretty robust for the most part.
Here's a link to the clutch.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-23993143-dana-44jk-e-locker-magnet.html
 
Nice that they offer replacements, but why would you?
My rear failed with around 7000 miles on it.
Locked in and would not unlock.
Long story, search for it if you care.
It is a very common problem.

Dont have time for stuff that dont work right.
Go with the ARB and dont look back. Works great every time.
Click on, click off.

Good luck with it.



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Tree Frog said:
Nice that they offer replacements, but why would you?
My rear failed with around 7000 miles on it.
Locked in and would not unlock.
Long story, search for it if you care.
It is a very common problem.

Dont have time for stuff that dont work right.
Go with the ARB and dont look back. Works great every time.
Click on, click off.

Good luck with it.



Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

I get you logic, but for someone with a tight budget this option makes more sense than $1600 in lockers and shafts.
 
swampdog said:
I get you logic, but for someone with a tight budget this option makes more sense than $1600 in lockers and shafts.
Click to expand...

100% this and any component can having issues. on the Unofficial hidden falls run we saw an ARB not locking, and my electric stock ones weren't locking.
 
From my perspective, it is catastrophic if you break down on the trail because of this failure. But much more cost effective if you can limp home and do this repair once there. Do not know of the quality of these replacement parts at this time.

edit; odds against happening to you but not good if it does. Keep fluids clean, better odds.
 
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Slimebones said:
From my perspective, it is catastrophic if you break down on the trail because of this failure. But much more cost effective if you can limp home and do this repair once there. Do not know of the quality of these replacement parts at this time.

edit; odds against happening to you but not good if it does. Keep fluids clean, better odds.
Click to expand...

Agree with keeping the fluids clean. I believe jeep recommend 15k miles service intervals for the diff fluid for the rubicons. I was have a few issues with my rear. Fluid was pretty dark when I bought it used. Serviced both diffs havnt had a problem sense. In about another 5k miles I'll be servicing them again. Fluids and filters are cheap preventive maintenance. The cheapest thing to do for a vehicle is to service the fluids and filters.


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My factory locker took a shit after a bad re-gear. There's stories about position sensors being the culprit and it being as cheap as that to fix it, but that wasn't my case. Trash had gotten in between the solenoid and diff carrier, as well as the solenoid. It made a pretty good mess of things. Fortunately we are now able to buy the solenoid ($200) which is a Spicer replacement part. If you have access to a press it really isn't that hard. I was able to easily cut my bearing off and swap out the solenoid. Pressed the new bearing on and everything works fine again.

I recently helped install an air locker in a friends rig and after looking at the internals of both options, I would almost definitely stick with the factory locker. As mentioned above, even an air locker isn't without its issues.


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