Jk rockjock iii bolt-in frontend package for stock outer knuckles

jk12blk said:
Anyone out there running this Currie front axle?
Curious how it is performing - seems like a decent deal.
I like how it has a 60 housing/tubes/gears yet allows me to retain the factory outers so I can continue running my ATX slabs 5x5 bolt pattern.
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Nobody I know is running one of these and it's a "good deal" for a good reason. There is NOTHING good or to be gained about retaining factory style end forgings and factory knuckles or running a 5x5 bolt pattern. If anything, it was a disappointment to me that back when we got our ProRock 60's, they weren't available in 8 lug like they are now.

Any downside to this setup I'm missing?
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How about the fact that it retains factory style end forgings that one of the first thing everyone wants to do is gusset it up. How about the fact that it only comes with 30 spline inner and 32 spline outer axles shafts. Also, I see there is no mention about axle tube diameter or thickness - I wonder why? For the price, I would just get a ProRock 44 and call it a day.

Seems to be the opposite of the dyntrac hybrid setup with 44 housing and 60 outers.
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Kinda of but not really and I don't even see what the benefit of it would be other than cost savings.
 
wayoflife said:
Nobody I know is running one of these and it's a "good deal" for a good reason. There is NOTHING good or to be gained about retaining factory style end forgings and factory knuckles or running a 5x5 bolt pattern. If anything, it was a disappointment to me that back when we got our ProRock 60's, they weren't available in 8 lug like they are now.



How about the fact that it retains factory style end forgings that one of the first thing everyone wants to do is gusset it up. How about the fact that it only comes with 30 spline inner and 32 spline outer axles shafts. Also, I see there is no mention about axle tube diameter or thickness - I wonder why? For the price, I would just get a ProRock 44 and call it a day.



Kinda of but not really and I don't even see what the benefit of it would be other than cost savings.
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Thanks Eddie. A few months back, I purchased 37s/ATX Slabs and I’m now looking to re-gear to 5.13. Estimate $1,200 in parts/labor to re-gear the front/rear. I thought rather than pay labor to re-gear a factory dana 44 with 5.13 gears, why not put those “re-gear” labor dollars towards the installation of stronger axles knowing I'm going to keep this jeep for the long term future. Sure, it’s going to a cost a lot more, but just receiving a 2 year interest free credit card and knowing there are 2 years of tax returns in between helps convince the wife this is a good move. :thumb:

The first call I made was to Dynatrac. I’ve made so many calls now I may be off on my numbers, but I think for the rear they quoted $4,850 or so for a fully built 60 with ARB, 5.13 gears (I believe with 35 spline axles). At the same time, I can get a fully built Currie rear rock jock w/ ARB, 5.13 gears, 35 spline shafts for $3,615 (~$200 more if 40 spline axles and 40 spline ARB). I’m sure there are good reasons in terms of strength/quality for the price difference, but it’s not like I’m going to be entering KOH or running carnage canyone anytime soon. I’m only interested in running trails like Fordyce, Rubicon, Dusy, etc with added peace of mind of the 60 axle strength. Both the Currie and Dynatrac would allow me to run my 5x5 ATX slabs too (maybe not a great thing, but I’m so not interested in selling my ATX slab wheels and dealing with swapping them out for a different bolt pattern wheel).

For the front, I first looked at the Pro Rock 44, but because I’m running RCV shafts I thought the 44 gears would still be susceptible to breakage given the strength of my RCV shafts (I’ve never had a problem to date btw, but everyone seems to think I’m going to blow my 44 gears). I also realize the PR 44 housing is a ton stronger compared to the factory axle assembly, but at the same time I wanted to investigate a 60 housing/gear option w/o having to pay the costs for a fully built 60 nor deal with swapping out my ATX Slabs. And that is when I stumbled across this Currie axle assembly. Seems like a good solution for my needs – 60 housing, 60 gears, 60 tubes (will verify thickness), can continue running my RCV shafts (or sell them and run the shafts included in the kit), new tie rod (can sell my RK 7075 alum tie rod) and also continue running my ATX Slabs. Perhaps throw in a set of Reid Knuckles which should make for a pretty strong setup. If I were to purchase the PR 44, I would still be running my ATX Slabs, RCV’s and the same spline shafts anyway, but w/o the 60 gear strength.

In the end, provided the quotes I’ve received from my installer, for Currie parts only (front/rear axles, ARB, compressor, gears, shafts, etc) and assuming I sell my factory Dana 44 axles for what I estimate they are worth - net cost for parts listed above is $5,200. Not bad for a fully built 60 in the rear and a hybrid 60 up front. Of course this does not include labor to install the axles or plumb the ARB.

If the front axles were free, which setup would you prefer and why?
1) Pro Rock 44 housing (then transfer all factory parts w/ RCV shafts, new 5.13 44 gears, ARB locker, maybe throw in Reid Knuckles)
2) Currie 60 assembly (transfer factory outers, 60 housing, new 5.13 60 gears, RCV shafts, ARB, maybe throw in Reid Knuckles)

Thanks!
 
jk12blk said:
Thanks Eddie. A few months back, I purchased 37s/ATX Slabs and I’m now looking to re-gear to 5.13. Estimate $1,200 in parts/labor to re-gear the front/rear. I thought rather than pay labor to re-gear a factory dana 44 with 5.13 gears, why not put those “re-gear” labor dollars towards the installation of stronger axles knowing I'm going to keep this jeep for the long term future. Sure, it’s going to a cost a lot more, but just receiving a 2 year interest free credit card and knowing there are 2 years of tax returns in between helps convince the wife this is a good move. :thumb:

The first call I made was to Dynatrac. I’ve made so many calls now I may be off on my numbers, but I think for the rear they quoted $4,850 or so for a fully built 60 with ARB, 5.13 gears (I believe with 35 spline axles). At the same time, I can get a fully built Currie rear rock jock w/ ARB, 5.13 gears, 35 spline shafts for $3,615 (~$200 more if 40 spline axles and 40 spline ARB). I’m sure there are good reasons in terms of strength/quality for the price difference, but it’s not like I’m going to be entering KOH or running carnage canyone anytime soon. I’m only interested in running trails like Fordyce, Rubicon, Dusy, etc with added peace of mind of the 60 axle strength. Both the Currie and Dynatrac would allow me to run my 5x5 ATX slabs too (maybe not a great thing, but I’m so not interested in selling my ATX slab wheels and dealing with swapping them out for a different bolt pattern wheel).

For the front, I first looked at the Pro Rock 44, but because I’m running RCV shafts I thought the 44 gears would still be susceptible to breakage given the strength of my RCV shafts (I’ve never had a problem to date btw, but everyone seems to think I’m going to blow my 44 gears). I also realize the PR 44 housing is a ton stronger compared to the factory axle assembly, but at the same time I wanted to investigate a 60 housing/gear option w/o having to pay the costs for a fully built 60 nor deal with swapping out my ATX Slabs. And that is when I stumbled across this Currie axle assembly. Seems like a good solution for my needs – 60 housing, 60 gears, 60 tubes (will verify thickness), can continue running my RCV shafts (or sell them and run the shafts included in the kit), new tie rod (can sell my RK 7075 alum tie rod) and also continue running my ATX Slabs. Perhaps throw in a set of Reid Knuckles which should make for a pretty strong setup. If I were to purchase the PR 44, I would still be running my ATX Slabs, RCV’s and the same spline shafts anyway, but w/o the 60 gear strength.

In the end, provided the quotes I’ve received from my installer, for Currie parts only (front/rear axles, ARB, compressor, gears, shafts, etc) and assuming I sell my factory Dana 44 axles for what I estimate they are worth - net cost for parts listed above is $5,200. Not bad for a fully built 60 in the rear and a hybrid 60 up front. Of course this does not include labor to install the axles or plumb the ARB.

If the front axles were free, which setup would you prefer and why?
1) Pro Rock 44 housing (then transfer all factory parts w/ RCV shafts, new 5.13 44 gears, ARB locker, maybe throw in Reid Knuckles)
2) Currie 60 assembly (transfer factory outers, 60 housing, new 5.13 60 gears, RCV shafts, ARB, maybe throw in Reid Knuckles)

Thanks!
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:cheesy: LOL!! Well that was a mouthful. Sounds to me like you've already convinced yourself what you want to do and to that, I say do whatever will help you to sleep better at night. Certainly, it's your Jeep and no sweat off my back :yup:
 
Well like wol said having the knuckles and such Is the worst idea but honestly If the curries are in your budget go for them i wheeled with a guy with currie 60 and 41's and they worked great. As mentioned the fun pro rocks do have a thinker tube. Personally if you have the money go the pro rock they are the best for a reason. BUT if money is in play I feel the curries will do more that what you need them to.
 
seanb123 said:
Well like wol said having the knuckles and such Is the worst idea but honestly If the curries are in your budget go for them i wheeled with a guy with currie 60 and 41's and they worked great. As mentioned the fun pro rocks do have a thinker tube. Personally if you have the money go the pro rock they are the best for a reason.
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Honestly, there are Currie axles and then there are Currie axles. Currie does a great job of luring people to their axles by offering them with cheap, subpar and even Chinese made parts that allow them to "appear" much cheaper. Of course, you can elect to have them built to a higher standard and when you bring them up to an apples to apples comparison to a Dynatrac, you will see they actually cost the same. In the end, you get what you pay for.

BUT if money is in play I feel the curries will do more that what you need them to.
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I don't even know if I could say that. Grandpa Randy had been running Rock Jock 60's and had broken them so many times that it became kind of a joke. As you can see in this video, he breaks yet again on the JKX...


The worst part of it was, Currie would only warranty his break once. After that, they accused him of playing too hard. I have NEVER heard of Dynatrac saying or doing this to one of their customers. And, before all the haters come on, let me just say that I am a BIG fan of Currie and the parts they make. I love their Johnny Joints, I love their control arms, they make the best tie-rod and I can go on and on and would always recommend them first. I'm just calling things as I have seen them.
 
wayoflife said:
:cheesy: LOL!! Well that was a mouthful. Sounds to me like you've already convinced yourself what you want to do and to that, I say do whatever will help you to sleep better at night. Certainly, it's your Jeep and no sweat off my back :yup:
Click to expand...

Well, I'm hoping someone will answer the last question. Although I'm leaning towards a particular solution, I've not made a final decision which is why I'm seeking input from this forum. In regards to the front axle, I would like to know why the PR 44 may be advantageous versus the Currie alternative I've listed above (WAL recommended PR 44 above). Speaking with Dynatrac and Currie helps, but bias is always a factor. Just looking for some unbiased input from this forum. thanks.
 
seanb123 said:
Well like wol said having the knuckles and such Is the worst idea but honestly If the curries are in your budget go for them i wheeled with a guy with currie 60 and 41's and they worked great. As mentioned the fun pro rocks do have a thinker tube. Personally if you have the money go the pro rock they are the best for a reason. BUT if money is in play I feel the curries will do more that what you need them to.
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thank you - this helps. I had not seen this post before my recent post.
 
wayoflife said:
Honestly, there are Currie axles and then there are Currie axles. Currie does a great job of luring people to their axles by offering them with cheap, subpar and even Chinese made parts that allow them to "appear" much cheaper. Of course, you can elect to have them built to a higher standard and when you bring them up to an apples to apples comparison to a Dynatrac, you will see they actually cost the same. In the end, you get what you pay for.



I don't even know if I could say that. Grandpa Randy had been running Rock Jock 60's and had broken them so many times that it became kind of a joke. As you can see in this video, he breaks yet again on the JKX...


The worst part of it was, Currie would only warranty his break once. After that, they accused him of playing too hard. I have NEVER heard of Dynatrac saying or doing this to one of their customers. And, before all the haters come on, let me just say that I am a BIG fan of Currie and the parts they make. I love their Johnny Joints, I love their control arms, they make the best tie-rod and I can go on and on and would always recommend them first. I'm just calling things as I have seen them.
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Interesting and good to know. thanks WAL.
 
jk12blk said:
...but just receiving a 2 year interest free credit card and knowing there are 2 years of tax returns in between helps convince the wife this is a good move. :thumb:
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For these reasons alone I would keep running my Dana 44s. :yup:

But good luck with whatever you decide. :thumb:
 
jk12blk said:
Well, I'm hoping someone will answer the last question. Although I'm leaning towards a particular solution, I've not made a final decision which is why I'm seeking input from this forum. In regards to the front axle, I would like to know why the PR 44 may be advantageous versus the Currie alternative I've listed above (WAL recommended PR 44 above). Speaking with Dynatrac and Currie helps, but bias is always a factor. Just looking for some unbiased input from this forum. thanks.

If the front axles were free, which setup would you prefer and why?
1) Pro Rock 44 housing (then transfer all factory parts w/ RCV shafts, new 5.13 44 gears, ARB locker, maybe throw in Reid Knuckles)
2) Currie 60 assembly (transfer factory outers, 60 housing, new 5.13 60 gears, RCV shafts, ARB, maybe throw in Reid Knuckles)
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First off, Reid knuckles are a waste of money or at least in my opinion. For how much they are, you will only gain about 1" of additional clearance at the tie-rod and I can guarantee that you will still hit it. Rather then get it, I would use that money and just buy a Currie HD tie-rod.

Second, to answer your question, I would get the ProRock 44 Unlimited. As you have stated, you have yet to blow out your ring and pinion and so long as you stick with 5.13 gear, the odds of you breaking them will be very low. As you have pointed out, going this route will allow you to transfer ALL your internals but, if you decide to get an ARB, I would get it with the 35 spline option, sell your RCV and get new ones or just get a basic set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips. Trust me, they will do the job just fine and you may even come out even when all is said and done in terms of cost. Unlike the Currie III (notice that they don't even call it a 60), the ProRock 44 Unlimited will give you MORE ground clearance than a factory 44, will come with 1/2" thick tubes, proprietary beefy end forgings, built in 6° of caster and to top it off, have a company that makes everything here in the USA and will stand behind their product.
 
wayoflife said:
First off, Reid knuckles are a waste of money or at least in my opinion. For how much they are, you will only gain about 1" of additional clearance at the tie-rod and I can guarantee that you will still hit it. Rather then get it, I would use that money and just buy a Currie HD tie-rod.

Second, to answer your question, I would get the ProRock 44 Unlimited. As you have stated, you have yet to blow out your ring and pinion and so long as you stick with 5.13 gear, the odds of you breaking them will be very low. As you have pointed out, going this route will allow you to transfer ALL your internals but, if you decide to get an ARB, I would get it with the 35 spline option, sell your RCV and get new ones or just get a basic set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips. Trust me, they will do the job just fine and you may even come out even when all is said and done in terms of cost. Unlike the Currie III (notice that they don't even call it a 60), the ProRock 44 Unlimited will give you MORE ground clearance than a factory 44, will come with 1/2" thick tubes, proprietary beefy end forgings, built in 6° of caster and to top it off, have a company that makes everything here in the USA and will stand behind their product.
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Excellent. I appreciate your input and direction, Eddie. Contacting my dealer/installer now for a quote on rear Dynatrac 60 and the PR 44. Curious how it all shakes out cost wise.
 
jk12blk said:
Excellent. I appreciate your input and direction, Eddie. Contacting my dealer/installer now for a quote on rear Dynatrac 60 and the PR 44. Curious how it all shakes out cost wise.
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You know, if cost is an issue and you're wanting to keep your 5x5 wheels, have them price out a Dyantrac Trail 60 for the rear.
 
jkjurny said:
Besides the bolt pattern, what other differences between the Trail and the ProRock 60?
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The Trail 60 is Dynatrac's mass production rear axle and, among other things, has a factory shaped differential, thinner axle tubes, can be bought in a factory JK width and can be had with 5x5 bolt pattern. The ProRock 60 is a custom full width axle, comes with a Dynatrac high clearance profiled differential housing, comes with much thicker tubes, can be had as a full float setup, comes in a 5x5.5 or 8 lug bolt pattern.
 
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