Jk rear control arms

L

Leeboy03

New member
So I’ve upsized to 37’s. My current set up is a 2.5 lift with stock arms in the rear. It works fine for the 35’s that are on it now but the rear wheels are no where near center of the wheel well. I know adjustable arms are the correct way to fix it but is there any reason I can’t cut/weld a section in to temporarily get me by until I can get adjustables? And if so does anyone happen to know approximately how long the rear arms need to be? Thanks


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Maybe it’s just me but that sounds like a REALLY bad idea. A lot of people run 37s on stock control arms in the rear and don’t have an issue. The problem is once you lengthen the arms, you’re going to run into problems on up travel. Everyone’s wheels sit slightly forward of center unless they’re running a long arm and small lift
 
Leeboy03 said:
So I’ve upsized to 37’s. My current set up is a 2.5 lift with stock arms in the rear. It works fine for the 35’s that are on it now but the rear wheels are no where near center of the wheel well. I know adjustable arms are the correct way to fix it but is there any reason I can’t cut/weld a section in to temporarily get me by until I can get adjustables? And if so does anyone happen to know approximately how long the rear arms need to be? Thanks


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Honestly if you’re asking this question, you probably have no business doing it.


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Leeboy03 said:
So I’ve upsized to 37’s. My current set up is a 2.5 lift with stock arms in the rear. It works fine for the 35’s that are on it now but the rear wheels are no where near center of the wheel well. I know adjustable arms are the correct way to fix it but is there any reason I can’t cut/weld a section in to temporarily get me by until I can get adjustables? And if so does anyone happen to know approximately how long the rear arms need to be? Thanks


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Definitely seems risky. Especially on something that family may ride in.


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Another reason to change the lower control arms is the strength of the stock arms. If the reason you have gone to 37s is for better off road performance, I would suggest you replace the control arms with a beefy adjustable control arm.
IMG_1263.jpg
The bent stock control arm ruined my D44 and made getting off the trail a challenge. The new adjustable control arm has proven itself.


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So I guess I should have probably mentioned the I am a pressure vessel/ broiler pipe welder. The welds I make Dailey are all subject to x-ray,UT, dye pen, and mag testing. So risky isn’t a concern for me. My plans are to go with long arms in the near (5-6 months) future which is why I’m hesitant to spend the money on adjustable arms right now.


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Leeboy03 said:
So I guess I should have probably mentioned the I am a pressure vessel/ broiler pipe welder. The welds I make Dailey are all subject to x-ray,UT, dye pen, and mag testing. So risky isn’t a concern for me. My plans are to go with long arms in the near (5-6 months) future which is why I’m hesitant to spend the money on adjustable arms right now.


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well from a welding stand point, it sounds like you know your stuff. but, let's say you spend $250 on a set of arms. i'd bet you could sell them for $200 easy in a couple of months.
 
Recently got all adjustable arms for mine after using stock with 3" lift for a couple of years. Well worth the investment IMHO. Ride quality and looks both markedly improved.


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Leeboy03 said:
So I guess I should have probably mentioned the I am a pressure vessel/ broiler pipe welder. The welds I make Dailey are all subject to x-ray,UT, dye pen, and mag testing. So risky isn’t a concern for me. My plans are to go with long arms in the near (5-6 months) future which is why I’m hesitant to spend the money on adjustable arms right now.


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If that’s the case so you really need someone to tell you how to cut and extend a piece of tubing or if it will be structurally sound after doing so?


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