Jeep JK Drag Link Pitman Arm Side Problem

S

slowroller

New member
A little help is needed. Recently ran into the infamous and non-descript "clunk" in what seems to be the front passenger side. While I still have not found the source, I noticed my draglink hub-side ball joint was going bad and decided to replace the whole assembly. The new hub side went in just fine, no issues, torqued to specification, and grease fitting greased. The Pitman arm side is where I came into trouble. I have the castle nut as tight as I can make it and the fitting greased but the cotter-pin (and hole) are way above the castle nut slots. Additionally, I can still push up on that tie rod end and there is about a 1-2mm of play. The tie rod end did not come with a slotted or recessed ball joint thread for an allen wrench. Left to right movement seems fine but that amount of slop in the pitman arm side has me concerned about wallowing out the pitman arm and general slop in the steering. I've priced the HD parts, which are out of the $ range for now. I have seen some videos where an inner sleeve or cone helps with this, but I am not sure if that was for a different application or what I should even be searching for. Any help is appreciated.

As for the "Clunk", I've checked everything I know how to check and can't seem to find it. ill keep looking and post an update when I find the damn thing.

Thanks in advance for any assistance on my drag link issue.
 
Check that track bar bolts are tight and bushing ends aren't worn as far as the clunk goes. As far as the pitman arm, is it possible that someone put an aftermarket pitman arm on at some point? What brand of drag link did you get?
 
Speedy_RCW said:
Is the nut bottomed out on the threads? If you put a washer under the castle nut will it pull the joint fully into the taper? I’d be sure you have the correct parts first.
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Seems to be the case. I wanted to try washers but wasnt sure if it was appropriate. Right tool / right task kinda thing and i saw those cones in a couple other videos for ball joints applications. Seems to be the right part.
 
WJCO said:
Check that track bar bolts are tight and bushing ends aren't worn as far as the clunk goes. As far as the pitman arm, is it possible that someone put an aftermarket pitman arm on at some point? What brand of drag link did you get?
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It's possible but seems unlikely. I went with duralast for the drag link and tie-rod end and the similarities between what i pulled off and what I put on are too close.
 
For the steering, I'm wondering if its an issues with the taper on the joint or like mentioned and most likely the issue, there's a good chance the hole on the pitman arm is just worn out from long term play.

For the clunk, do you have sway bar links or a track bar that uses Heim joints? They will cause a clunk for sure when worn out.
 
As an update for those that have commented. I will be getting washers to stack under the castlenut for the tie rod end to the pitman arm. In searching for the clunk, all bolts are tightened in control arms, track bars, sway bar end links, shocks, brake calipers, and body mounts. Im beginning to believe it may be a bad passenger front wheel hub. It's a bit stiff when i turn it by hand but will keep everyone posted. If you have other ideas, please let me know. Trying to make sure i understand all common problems and your input is super helpful.
 
Disciple Off Road said:
For the steering, I'm wondering if its an issues with the taper on the joint or like mentioned and most likely the issue, there's a good chance the hole on the pitman arm is just worn out from long term play.

For the clunk, do you have sway bar links or a track bar that uses Heim joints? They will cause a clunk for sure when worn out.
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No heim joints. I agree the pitman arm may be worn which is why i asked about the cone inserts originally. I would prefer those over washers but as long as I can get it torqued to spec and the cotter pin engages properly, it will abate my concerns until it's time to upgrade. I intend to eventually upgrade the D30 to a pro-rock44 or something similar and that will require upgraded steering linkages anyway.
 
slowroller said:
No heim joints. I agree the pitman arm may be worn which is why i asked about the cone inserts originally. I would prefer those over washers but as long as I can get it torqued to spec and the cotter pin engages properly, it will abate my concerns until it's time to upgrade. I intend to eventually upgrade the D30 to a pro-rock44 or something similar and that will require upgraded steering linkages anyway.
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If the tapered hole in the pitman arm is worn that is a safety issue and needs to be addressed, new pitman arms are cheap...



Have someone saw the steering wheel back and forth rapidly (just far enough each way to barely move both tires) while you look underneath for movement at the following:

Steering box to frame
sector shaft
drag link to pitman arm
drag link to knuckle
tie rod at both knuckles
track bar at both ends
track bar mounts at frame and axle

Any movement, even if slight at any of the above spots is indicative of worn out parts.

jack up the front one side at a time and forcefully wiggle the tire up and down then left to right. If you feel any free movement (even if slight) or hear an audible clicking while doing this its indicative of worn wheel bearings or ball joints. If you happen to have a dial indicator with a magnetic base you can set it up to measure for movement that cant be felt or heard.
 
CalSgt said:
If the tapered hole in the pitman arm is worn that is a safety issue and needs to be addressed, new pitman arms are cheap...



Have someone saw the steering wheel back and forth rapidly (just far enough each way to barely move both tires) while you look underneath for movement at the following:

Steering box to frame
sector shaft
drag link to pitman arm
drag link to knuckle
tie rod at both knuckles
track bar at both ends
track bar mounts at frame and axle

Any movement, even if slight at any of the above spots is indicative of worn out parts.

jack up the front one side at a time and forcefully wiggle the tire up and down then left to right. If you feel any free movement (even if slight) or hear an audible clicking while doing this its indicative of worn wheel bearings or ball joints. If you happen to have a dial indicator with a magnetic base you can set it up to measure for movement that cant be felt or heard.
Click to expand...
DUDE! Solid advice. I will try all those and it gives me a reason to get a dial indicator with magnetic base.
 
Update for the group...I will remain vigilant of all the advice given here. I managed to get the castle nut to an acceptable position and secure the cotter pin in an appropriate place at the bottom of the notch in the castle nut. I am still unable to torque it to the specified 77lb-ft but, managed to get it tight enough to remove any play out of the drag link tie rod end and pitman arm. I also believe I have found the clunk but remain cautiously optimistic. It appears to have been an ever-so-slightly loose swaybar end link. I mean a 3/4 - full turn. Test driving failed to replicate the issue. I will continue to work through it to ensure she is ship-shape and ready for the next offroad adventure.
 
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