How to change Front AXLE LOCKER SENSOR?

[Flow]

Hi,
Jk Rubicon 07, front axle
The locker is working (tested), evan so axle lock lights flashing.
I need to replace the sensor.
It can be done without removing the axles?

FRONT AXLE LOCKER SENSOR 2007-2013 JEEP WRANGLER #68003569AA

 

[wayoflife]

Have you recently re-geared your axle? If so, did you make sure to put the tip of the sensor on the other side of the dog clutch so that it pulls in and out as the locker engages and disengages?

 

[Tcdawg]

Can it be replaced without removing the axle from the jeep? yes

But you will need to remove the carrier....which means removing a number of other items as well wheels, brakes axle shafts.

 

[Flow]

Have you recently re-geared your axle? If so, did you make sure to put the tip of the sensor on the other side of the dog clutch so that it pulls in and out as the locker engages and disengages?

I have not opened anything, I just pulled out the sensor, I measured in both positions it on and off and is 0 (ohmmeter), not related to his position in the differential.

Can it be replaced without removing the axle from the jeep? yes

But you will need to remove the carrier....which means removing a number of other items as well wheels, brakes axle shafts.

Not exactly what I want to do, it seems that they are still able to do this without dismantling axes.

"It can even be done without removing the axles.

You have to grind the sensor threads from about 6 full threads to around 3. I used a dremel and that took about 10 minutes to do a clean job. The top sensor is one that I fcked up and just used as a plug. The bottom one is a good one that I put in w/o removed the axles or pulling the carrier out.

Then, like you said, find something to hold the plunger open (I used a toothpick). Goes in just fine.

Amazingly (I think), the toothpick was just laying at the bottom of the housing after I seated the sensor."

 

[Tcdawg]

I don't see how you would replace the sensor without removing the carrier. At best you could pull the carrier out about an inch, put in the new sensor and then push the carrier back in...but in reality, when you begin to try and pull the carrier out just a little it comes out all the way, and fast, be ready to catch it or have extra hands to hold it.

Good luck

 

[HDGasser]

Is it really worth the time and PITA to pull the carrier just to have a light not flash?

Trust me... If you need your front locker and it's not working your gonna know REAL quick. Light or no light.:twocents:

 

[Flow]

I don't see how you would replace the sensor without removing the carrier. At best you could pull the carrier out about an inch, put in the new sensor and then push the carrier back in...but in reality, when you begin to try and pull the carrier out just a little it comes out all the way, and fast, be ready to catch it or have extra hands to hold it.

I think it can be done, if the axes are still in place, the carrier has no way to get out, in conclusion not need another set of hands to keep him there.
Others have found other solutions that I've read, I thought here are some that have done the same.
Examples:
1. I just loosened my mains and rolled back the carrier a tad. That let me get the plunger in and out with no problem with the diff otherwise fully assembled.
2. I have done the same, just loosened the caps, axles in and pryed the carrier out a little, took the sensor out and installed the new and used a small pick to get it on the correct side of the plate.

Is it really worth the time and PITA to pull the carrier just to have a light not flash?
Trust me... If you need your front locker and it's not working your gonna know REAL quick. Light or no light.:twocents:

Yes, it's worth, I want everything to go as it should, I often need front blocker, it does the job, but do not want to blink in the eye every time I use it, is just plain annoying.

 

[HDGasser]

Well then go on with your bad self... Sounds like you've already got your answer on how to do it so not sure what your asking here?

And if your gonna pry on the carrier with the caps off and axles still in place your gonna run the risk of damaging seals. Then your gonna have to pull the axles and carrier to replace em.

I've got my blockers overridden so my lights flash regardless.:rock:

Good luck! And let us know how it goes.

 

[Tcdawg]

Well then go on with your bad self... Sounds like you've already got your answer on how to do it so not sure what your asking here?

And if your gonna pry on the carrier with the caps off and axles still in place your gonna run the risk of damaging seals. Then your gonna have to pull the axles and carrier to replace em.

I've got my blockers overridden so my lights flash regardless.:rock:

Good luck! And let us know how it goes.

I wouldn't think the carrier would budge at all if the shafts were still in.

 

[TheDuff]

Well then go on with your bad self... Sounds like you've already got your answer on how to do it so not sure what your asking here?

And if your gonna pry on the carrier with the caps off and axles still in place your gonna run the risk of damaging seals. Then your gonna have to pull the axles and carrier to replace em.

I've got my blockers overridden so my lights flash regardless.:rock:

Good luck! And let us know how it goes.

Possible seal damage! That's a good point:thumbup:

Sent from my LG-D800 using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[jnabird333]

I thought the front sensor could be replaced pulled without removing the carrier but not the rear... (My information comes from reading about gear swaps and not first hand, so I question it)

 

[JK's JK]

Have you recently re-geared your axle? If so, did you make sure to put the tip of the sensor on the other side of the dog clutch so that it pulls in and out as the locker engages and disengages?

I don't see how you would replace the sensor without removing the carrier. At best you could pull the carrier out about an inch, put in the new sensor and then push the carrier back in...but in reality, when you begin to try and pull the carrier out just a little it comes out all the way, and fast, be ready to catch it or have extra hands to hold it.

Good luck

Is it really worth the time and PITA to pull the carrier just to have a light not flash?

Trust me... If you need your front locker and it's not working your gonna know REAL quick. Light or no light.:twocents:

Hi Guys,

This is a good discussion going on in this thread. I had my gears changed out and drove the Jeep a good 1000 miles. Then I went a little off road and engaged my locker. The light will not go out. The rear locker engages fine but the light will not go out. I bought a new sensor to replace it but after hearing a little bit, it might be because the sensor isnt positioned correctly. So taking out the carrier, the sensor might be still good?

 

[HDGasser]

Hi Guys,

This is a good discussion going on in this thread. I had my gears changed out and drove the Jeep a good 1000 miles. Then I went a little off road and engaged my locker. The light will not go out. The rear locker engages fine but the light will not go out. I bought a new sensor to replace it but after hearing a little bit, it might be because the sensor isnt positioned correctly. So taking out the carrier, the sensor might be still good?

You can pop the cover off and see if its in there right or not.

I'm about 99.995% sure that the carrier's gotta come out, both front and rear.

I'm gonna do front axle seals again real soon so I'll let you know!

 

[HDGasser]

I wouldn't think the carrier would budge at all if the shafts were still in.

My thought exactly, BUT with a big ass pry bar... Somethings gonna move eventually! LoL

 

[JK's JK]

You can pop the cover off and see if its in there right or not.

I'm about 99.995% sure that the carrier's gotta come out, both front and rear.

I'm gonna do front axle seals again real soon so I'll let you know!

I didn't know what was going on and I took it over to the dealership. They said the carrier had to come out.

 

[jnabird333]

I know this is the rear, but I though it might help...

I have also found where some guys SAY they have replaced the sensors without removing anything but it requires the grinding on the first few threads to get some more room to get the plunger over the disk. To me this seems silly and I would just pull everything but I thought I would share.

 

[Flow]

Sounds like you've already got your answer on how to do it so not sure what your asking here?

Just trying to inform me, to look for as many solutions before I start, and choose the best, pros and cons are welcome. The risk of damaging seals should be considered, and it is something that I did not taken into account. Good point, thanks.

 

[JK's JK]

I know this is the rear, but I though it might help...

I have also found where some guys SAY they have replaced the sensors without removing anything but it requires the grinding on the first few threads to get some more room to get the plunger over the disk. To me this seems silly and I would just pull everything but I thought I would share.

This helps me. Now I'm wondering if the pin was installed correctly when the carrier was installed back in the diff./

 

[JK's JK]

I know this is the rear, but I though it might help...

I have also found where some guys SAY they have replaced the sensors without removing anything but it requires the grinding on the first few threads to get some more room to get the plunger over the disk. To me this seems silly and I would just pull everything but I thought I would share.

Thank you for that video. Have my rear carrier completely out right now and the F'ING switch is completely bent..

 

[JK's JK]

Can someone please tell me why the sensor needs to be out when installed? I cant figure it out.