Help on a lift Please! Rock Krawler

bkac

bkac

Caught the Bug
Hey Guys,
I know another lift question..... Sorry in advance! :thumb:

So I placed an order for an 3.5 AEV and it's been on backorder for weeks now and don't want to wait any longer. After reading all the reviews I am thinking about going with a Rock Krawler 3.5 flex system. I need to make sure this kit will drive and steer great. It's going on the wife's 14 JKUR with 35 Duratrac's and ATX wheels. That was the reason I wanted an AEV kit. I need some input on what to get or if I should wait for the AEV. I was thinking a RK 3.5 Flex, Bumpstops, Synergy high steer, Rancho 9000's, Grade 8 bolt kit, exhuast spacer, and a Procal. Am I missing anything? Rear track bar? Which High Steer Kit should I go with? I really need it to drive great on the road but have the off road capabality.

Will this Jeep drive/steer great on the road? She has a hard time paying attention while driving and don't want to regret my purchase. Any input would be great before I drop over $2,000 into this jeep. It only has 200 miles on it.
 
I have the aev dualsport 3.5" and I love it. Ride is just like stock, I tow trailers with it all the time and haven't had a issue.

Sent from my XT907 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You don't need 3.5" of lift to clear 35's. You should look at a budget boost if the plan is for just a DD with light offroading.

Also the grade 8 hardware is a waste of money and does absolutely nothing. Save the $50 and take your wife out to dinner.
 
Ro1bvan1 said:
Hey Guys,
I know another lift question..... Sorry in advance! :thumb:

So I placed an order for an 3.5 AEV and it's been on backorder for weeks now and don't want to wait any longer. After reading all the reviews I am thinking about going with a Rock Krawler 3.5 flex system. I need to make sure this kit will drive and steer great. It's going on the wife's 14 JKUR with 35 Duratrac's and ATX wheels. That was the reason I wanted an AEV kit. I need some input on what to get or if I should wait for the AEV. I was thinking a RK 3.5 Flex, Bumpstops, Synergy high steer, Rancho 9000's, Grade 8 bolt kit, exhuast spacer, and a Procal. Am I missing anything? Rear track bar? Which High Steer Kit should I go with? I really need it to drive great on the road but have the off road capabality.

Will this Jeep drive/steer great on the road? She has a hard time paying attention while driving and don't want to regret my purchase. Any input would be great before I drop over $2,000 into this jeep. It only has 200 miles on it.
Click to expand...

I love my rk lift its very high quality. I'm not very familiar with wats the flex system includes so i cant...

Good luck
 
OverlanderJK said:
You don't need 3.5" of lift to clear 35's. You should look at a budget boost if the plan is for just a DD with light offroading.

Also the grade 8 hardware is a waste of money and does absolutely nothing. Save the $50 and take your wife out to dinner.
Click to expand...

all of this! ^^^

FWIW i am clearing 35's just fine on my 2.5" lift. a simple budget boost like whats in the write up below will work perfectly for your wife.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?3976-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-2-5-quot-Budget-Boost-Installation-Write-Up
 
cozdude said:
all of this! ^^^

FWIW i am clearing 35's just fine on my 2.5" lift. a simple budget boost like whats in the write up below will work perfectly for your wife.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?3976-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-2-5-quot-Budget-Boost-Installation-Write-Up
Click to expand...


The only way I was able to get the Jeep and keep my truck was to call it the "Wife's" Jeep :)
We just moved to the west coast and plan on hitting the Rubi and the Moab for Easter this coming year. It will be on the road but also I want to build it towards 37's on the next set of tires. I'm looking for more then just a BB. My question is what do I need with the RK kit to make it perform like the AEV kit on the road? I want to go high steer, but which highsteer? Just want to know the differences on road. I already understand the differences off road...
 
GR8WHITE said:
I love my rk lift its very high quality. I'm not very familiar with wats the flex system includes so i cant...

Good luck
Click to expand...
The RK flex consists of

springs, front trackbar, brakelines, lower control arms, swaybar links and disconnects, rear trackbar bracket...
 
Don't bother with the exhaust spacer and get a front driveshaft if you go the 3.5 route for both AEV or RK. If you plan on going to 37s get a 1350 instead of a 1310.
 
I got the RK 3.5 X Factor Mid Arm system for my JKU and love it. Mine came with all 8 control arms, springs, track bars and brackets, extra long brake lines, and sway bar disconnects, had to get new tie rod ends. The system allows me to run 35's with stock fenders and if i go 37's i would have to do the fender cut mod but will allow for them.

Per some of the comments is it recommended to get a new front driveshaft with this kit? Rock Krawler did not suggest or mention needing to upgrade with the system i got.
 
Like Iduke I have 3.5" rk mid arm comes with everything you need minus shocks it handles great on and off road. I went with the mid arm just so I could push my rear axle back further without having to reweld my control arm brackets like you would have to for a long arm kit


Mick5280
 
I installed a front drive shaft only because northridge four wheel parts and other forums suggested that if I planned to use it for wheeling it would cause less stress on my transfer case. Plus after looking at the stock ds compared to the coast one I put it made me wonder how my stock one ever held up to the abuse


Mick5280
 
I wouldn't run a "mid arm" personally, you're going to run into more problems than what it's worth.
 
Mick5280 said:
How so


Mick5280
Click to expand...

Well, most springs will bow, when you shove the axle back you also move your shocks back and they rub on the sway bar. You need to move the sway bar back also. Then your track bar is off, so you should cut off the frame side mount and move it back also so your track bar clears your diff cover if you have any rubbing. Then your spring perches are no longer in line with each other, so you have to cut off your perches and re weld or use jks adjustable ones. Correction wedges don't really help. These are problems must people have, maybe you got lucky?
 
Doubt I got lucky. My lift came with a relocation bracket for my track bar do no rubbing and my shocks don't rub either. But I can see where remounting my perch mounts would definetly be beneficial I've been waiting for one of my rear springs to shoot out but they've held so far. Did think it was kinda ghetto that they suggest using hose clamps to help hold the wedges in place couple grand for the lift you would think they could come up with something better


Mick5280
 
I also ditched my rear sway bar so that's probably why they don't rub sorry half ass read what you wrote


Mick5280
 
OverlanderJK said:
Mid arm is a marketing tool. It uses stock mounting brackets so what makes it different from a short arm?
Click to expand...

What? You mean to tell me a control arm that is a tiny bit longer than stock isn't really "mid" way to a long arm that is typically 10" longer than stock?! :shock:
 
Stop them I'm talked out of AEV, now should i go RK or EVO? I just met someone to tell me exactly what to get. Which high steer, shocks, etc... I'm looking for a safe least body roll for on the road.

Sent from my VS980 4G using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
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