I have buddy that mounted his under the passenger front seat. Looks clean and is out if the way. I have the same inverter and will be mounting it in the same location.
I am just wondering where do you run the big cable to your battery, do u drill a hole to get to the battery?
Run the cable along the passenger side and remove the side plate cover on the pasenger side of the dash. If i remember correctly, there is a hole that goes through the firewall and into the engine compartment.
Be sure to seal the hole back up. I did the same with some switch wires, and on x-mas day I was driving head on into torrential driving rain for 2 hours, and for 2 hours water was dripping onto my accelerator foot. Some how it had found its way through there. Water's like that.:rock:
Bump. Anyone have any good or bad feedback on power inverter brands. I'm looking at something maybe 1000w or so to run power tools, a coffee pot, and the potential of charging some of my cordless tool batteries if ever needed. Any feedback?
What kind of power tool? I used to run a 750W from HF in my work van to charge my DeWalt batteries and run a printer. I upgraded the printer to a color laser and the 750W did fine in the winter, but when the summer heat kicked in, the 750W couldn't handle it. I upgraded to a HF 3000W in hopes of being able to run a circular saw but no go. The printer works fine as long as the van is running. I heard that a true sine wave converter is much better, but haven't had time to do the research.
Are you looking for an inverter that you can store and plug into a 12v socket/lighter when needed or something more permanent that's mounted and hardwired? I have a really nice Tripplite unit that was hardwired in my work van several years back, built like a brick shithouse right now it's rigged in a setup for emergency sump pump use in a power outage. Right now I use just a small one that plugs into the 12v power socket (purchased at Lowe's and I forget the brand) in the rear that does fine for cordless battery charging. You just want to make sure whatever one you choose will handle the load of the devices you plug into it. You'll probably want to be in the 600-1750 watt to run a small appliance and more for a power tool with a constant high amp draw. True sine wave probably isn't necessary unless it's critical for special devices that require a clean wave.
http://www.powerinverters.org/pages/Choosing-an-Inverter.html
here's a suggestion if you want to *armor* the power feed cables so they don't short out (hopefully there is a fuse in line as well).
You can buy tinned braid in a tube, or you can take RG-8 coax and strip the plastic covering and pull off the braid in a tube. Then bunch it up and run it over the cable where ever it goes through holes, etc.
Take some heatshrink and slide over this and shink the ends so that the braid doesn't unravel.
If you buy braid, you can get it in various diameters.
This stuff
I wouldn't try to run power tools off it. They have s heavy draw and will most likely trip the safety cut out. It's the initial start up of a tool that has the heavy draw.
I just gotted a power converter, power enough to plug to a power tool. The power converter have a mount, to mount to a vehicle and a remote switch for it. Have anyone mounted to there Jeep JK?