Full Float 44 Rear

aermotor

aermotor

Member
Okay okay okay, I know... Let's PRETEND for a minute that we aren't talking about the Teraflex Full Float D44 rear. Let's pretend that Dynatrac or someone else made this instead, would it even be a good thing? I know you're still just limited to the strength of the 44 shafts, housing, etc. I imagine it would be just better to go 60 in the rear ($4500), but if something like this came it at around $2000, it would seem like a maybe okay upgrade. Maybe if it had 35 spline shafts.

Chromo shafts are cheap to replace in the rear if you bend a flange, so I guess that's all this is really giving you.

I'm more curious than anything and interested in peoples thoughts. I would never buy this. There's probably a reason TF is the only one doing this...

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aermotor said:
Okay okay okay, I know... Let's PRETEND for a minute that we aren't talking about the Teraflex Full Float D44 rear. Let's pretend that Dynatrac or someone else made this instead, would it even be a good thing? I know you're still just limited to the strength of the 44 shafts, housing, etc. I imagine it would be just better to go 60 in the rear ($4500), but if something like this came it at around $2000, it would seem like a maybe okay upgrade. Maybe if it had 35 spline shafts.

Chromo shafts are cheap to replace in the rear if you bend a flange, so I guess that's all this is really giving you.

I'm more curious than anything and interested in peoples thoughts. I would never buy this. There's probably a reason TF is the only one doing this...

5665bb480aea88008887e609.png
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter who makes it, Still don't think it's worth it for the price. Why would you want to waste all the money to still have something considerably weaker? Just save the little extra and get a 60.
 
Ok, you do realize that this is not a true full float and rather just an axle shaft with extended hubs correct?

It's no different than you swapping axle shafts back there. A complete waste of money over just doing a solid rear shaft upgrade from a reputable company.
 
tgoss said:
Ok, you do realize that this is not a true full float and rather just an axle shaft with extended hubs correct?

It's no different than you swapping axle shafts back there. A complete waste of money over just doing a solid rear shaft upgrade from a reputable company.
Click to expand...

No, it is a true full float. I know because I built it.


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2000 is a lot for something that isn't really an upgrade. Now for 500ish.....Maybe. I still wouldn't buy it in its Chinese form.
 
If it was around the ~$1000 mark it wouldn't be a horrible investment for people running under a 40.
That would have to be $1000 & made in the USA though.
For that price currently though I'd do a FF 60 rear.
I'm surprised so many people upgrade the rear housing to a SF 60 though, I never really understood that.
 
Interesting this topic being brought up as I just installed axles with their kit. If it fails, it fails and lesson will be learned. Well, depends on what fails. I mean, a solid setup for many is a D44 rear and Pr44 front. So making both full float seems like it wouldnt be any worse. I was skeptical before I went all in however seeing it work in person and swapping teraflexes shafts for Nitro and Moser 35 spline shafts I am more confident. So now just the bearings, rotor, etc are TF. If I had a rubi and was only swapping internals over and getting tires I wouldn't have done it. But I was starting fresh with everything in the pr44. Tacking on tires was another couple grand. Then hydro assist and I wasn't much less than what I paid for what I got. I think if someone is in the market for something this serious one of dynatracs axle packages is ideal most likely. Like I said, this "deal" came at the right time for me. Since I hadnt seen it before on here or anywhere i was wanting to give it a try. I'm wheeling it this weekend and I will update if there's anything to report.

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JKDream said:
I'm surprised so many people upgrade the rear housing to a SF 60 though, I never really understood that.
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I'm one of those guys but then, that was something like 8 years ago and before that, nobody was running full float but more because none of us knew any better. Of course, since that time, I've been able to break a semi-float 60 and now run a full float 60 on Rubicat and a full float 80 on Moby. If people really believe they play hard enough to warrant a full float rear axle, anything less than 60 seems like a waste of money to me. Of course, if you can make something as silly as a full float 44 last, you never really needed it in the first place. At least, not in my opinion.
 
What benefit would something like this have other than being able to pull a broken rear axle on the trail and be able to put the tire back on to get you home?
 
tgoss said:
As great as their videos are, this is still a waste of money.
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This ^^^

There's a reason why companies like Dynatrac aren't making a full float 44 rear axle or something even sillier like an HD30 - there's no point in making either.
 
Jackal01 said:
It would allow you to see it is truly full float regardless of the cost.
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That's fine, my point is dissecting this thing you are gaining absolutely nothing. Same size bearings, same axle tube thickness, components made in china or wherever. Now you have to buy 8 lug wheels. And guess what it's still supported by a D44 which is proven to be 100% fine and durable with upgraded 35 spline axle shafts and a locker of your choice for 37's.

*edit, it's not my money being spent on the product in question so no sweat off my brow.
 
wayoflife said:
I'm one of those guys but then, that was something like 8 years ago and before that, nobody was running full float but more because none of us knew any better. Of course, since that time, I've been able to break a semi-float 60 and now run a full float 60 on Rubicat and a full float 80 on Moby. If people really believe they play hard enough to warrant a full float rear axle, anything less than 60 seems like a waste of money to me. Of course, if you can make something as silly as a full float 44 last, you never really needed it in the first place. At least, not in my opinion.
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Understood. I just thought it seemed quite weird because you retain the same issues as an OEM 44.
Sure, you get a bigger ring gear, but that was never really an issue on ~37's and 5:13s or less.
Those dang flanges though..
 
JKDream said:
Understood. I just thought it seemed quite weird because you retain the same issues as an OEM 44.
Sure, you get a bigger ring gear, but that was never really an issue on ~37's and 5:13s or less.
Those dang flanges though..
Click to expand...

Well, on a ProRock 60, you also get the bigger stronger housing, high clearance proprietary differential and bigger shafts and really, running 37's, I never had any problems. It was only when I was running 40x15.50's that I started bending flanges and then broke a shaft. I still would take it over this silly full float 44.
 
aermotor said:
Okay okay okay, I know... Let's PRETEND for a minute that we aren't talking about the Teraflex Full Float D44 rear. Let's pretend that Dynatrac or someone else made this instead, would it even be a good thing? I know you're still just limited to the strength of the 44 shafts, housing, etc. I imagine it would be just better to go 60 in the rear ($4500), but if something like this came it at around $2000, it would seem like a maybe okay upgrade. Maybe if it had 35 spline shafts.

Chromo shafts are cheap to replace in the rear if you bend a flange, so I guess that's all this is really giving you.

I'm more curious than anything and interested in peoples thoughts. I would never buy this. There's probably a reason TF is the only one doing this...

5665bb480aea88008887e609.png
Click to expand...

Assuming this is a true full float, it seems like the only advantage over a regular 44 is that you're not going to bend flanges any more because the weight of the Jeep is no longer directly on the shaft. But it's a $2k upgrade, and most will need to drop another $1500 or so on new wheels with an 8 lug pattern. So $3500 just to avoid bent flanges. You can by a lot of replacement shafts for $3500.


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