Front locker blues

[Jeeper99]

I noted that my front locker wasn't working after getting it back from re-gearing. I bought the Z Automotive sensor bypass jumper just before a trail trip a couple weeks ago. Nothing. We ran Backway to Crown King and really didn't need lockers.

Yesterday, I dug into it. The locker hall effect sensor was full of oil. So, theoretically, if it was just the sensor, the Z Automotive sensor bypass jumper should have bypassed the sensor and provided power directly to the 2 wires (ground and power) that go to the magnet in the actuator. I chased the wiring with a continuity light and found I was getting power (with the Z Automotive jumper) all the way to the connector where the actuator plugs in, inside the diff housing. So, it's something with the actuator assembly from either the connector, wiring, or the coil that is the problem I cleaned the hell out of the connector and eyeballed it closely. It looks good and the wires to the connector and the actuator look great, no pinches, kinks or any other anomolies.

 

[jeeeep]

I noted that my front locker wasn't working after getting it back from re-gearing. I bought the Z Automotive sensor bypass jumper just before a trail trip a couple weeks ago. Nothing. We ran Backway to Crown King and really didn't need lockers.

Yesterday, I dug into it. The locker hall effect sensor was full of oil. So, theoretically, if it was just the sensor, the Z Automotive sensor bypass jumper should have bypassed the sensor and provided power directly to the 2 wires (ground and power) that go to the magnet in the actuator. I chased the wiring with a continuity light and found I was getting power (with the Z Automotive jumper) all the way to the connector where the actuator plugs in, inside the diff housing. So, it's something with the actuator assembly from either the connector, wiring, or the coil that is the problem I cleaned the hell out of the connector and eyeballed it closely. It looks good and the wires to the connector and the actuator look great, no pinches, kinks or any other anomolies.View attachment 389382

the actuator bracket has to be placed in proper position; the JL has a 2-piece bracket actuator ring that the smaller ring fits inside some grooves of the larger ring for the magnet to align, likely explains why it wasn't working after regear.

I'd take it back to the shop.

the actuator ring is highlighted in blue:

 

[Jeeper99]

the actuator bracket has to be placed in proper position; the JL has a 2-piece bracket actuator ring that the smaller ring fits inside some grooves of the larger ring for the magnet to align, likely explains why it wasn't working after regear.

I'd take it back to the shop.

the actuator ring is highlighted in blue:
View attachment 389390

In the picture above, of course, the anti-rotation dog is removed from the right bearing cap so I could rotate the solenoid to get the sensor out and inspect the solenoid wires. But, specifically to your point, it appears that the plates are properly stacked and they move smoothly by hand against the spring. But, yes, that crossed my mind as well. But after watching this video and checking, the plates look correct.

It's something electrical from the coil/solenoid connector downstream. I can measure power/ground right at that last connector, but when I plug it in (hot), there's no magnetic field to push the plates toward the diff.

 

[Jeeper99]

I made some pigtails from wire and used jumper cables straight from the battery, to test it. The actuator worked!

I checked the connector that passes through the axle housing and it had 14v. After messing with the connector sockets I got it to work.The connector just wasn't completing the circuit. After inserting my pigtails into the connector, it suddenly was making a connection. I'm thinking the connection may have had a layer of some oxide or sulfide preventing continuity. Gear oil has sulfur and is reactive to some metals, including copper. I cleaned the connector and used dielectric grease to protect it.