Front Drive Shaft Advice Needed

HiTekRedneck

HiTekRedneck

New member
Was under the Jeep the other day and noticed a nice ring of grease that had been thrown out by the CV joint on the front drive shaft. Couldn't find any holes, looks like it was coming out from under the band. Bad thing is that there is quite a bit of play in it now, but hasn't been making any noise like I would have expected. So I'm at the crossroads of what to do at this point because I didn't have any intentions of swapping it out this soon. My choices are a Crown rebuild kit for ~$100 or a new 1310 shaft (looking at Adams). I would just jump on the new shaft, but have seen reports where adjustable LCAs would be needed...and just as many that say stock LCAs are fine with a new drive shaft :thinking:

Here are the specifics on my ride: 2009 JKU X, auto. RC 2.5" coil lift. Stock Rubicon shocks with extensions. Running Falken Wildpeaks close to factory size (265/75/16). No intentions of running a bigger lift and will be upgrading to 255/85/16 (~33") tires when these wear out in a year or two. At a later time I will also swap out this lift to another 2.5" or add components that didn't come with this kit (longer shocks, adjustable track bar, ect.) which will then necessitate a new front drive shaft. So, with all that being said, would I be better off to get the new drive shaft now or rebuild the OEM one? Will adjustable LCAs be needed with a new drive shaft? Any other drive shaft recommendations?
 
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You only need adjustable rear upper control arms to set your rear pinion if you install a new rear u-joint style double cardan drive shaft. You DO NOT need adjustable control arms to install a front shaft. Wherever you heard those "reports", I would advise that you no longer listen to them as they don't have a clue as to what they are talking about.

You would be better off getting a new shaft and pretty much any shaft will get the job done so long as it is balanced well. I would just make sure to get one that comes with either Neapco or Spicer u-joints. I personally prefer JE Reel because they only use made in the USA Neapco joints and without having to request them as an upgrade.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, good to know for sure that I won't need the LCAs. That's exactly why I asked here and not on one of the other forums, way too many opinions and not enough facts sometimes.
 
Ok, so I've been looking around at all the different options and came up with another question. Seems like there are three styles of replacement drive shafts(diff/t-case): flange/flange, flange/yoke, and yoke/yoke. I'm mainly looking at the flange/yoke and the yoke/yoke options. Looks like by using an OEM-like flange on the diff side would save me a few steps during installation. Is there that much difference between the two? Or is it going to be stronger to get one that has yokes at both ends or is it mainly to have off the shelf replacement parts available? I'm thinking with the type of wheeling I do and lack of big tires/lift, that the OEM style flange on the diff side would be acceptable? Sorry for all the questions, learning new stuff as I go.
 
HiTekRedneck said:
Ok, so I've been looking around at all the different options and came up with another question. Seems like there are three styles of replacement drive shafts(diff/t-case): flange/flange, flange/yoke, and yoke/yoke. I'm mainly looking at the flange/yoke and the yoke/yoke options. Looks like by using an OEM-like flange on the diff side would save me a few steps during installation. Is there that much difference between the two? Or is it going to be stronger to get one that has yokes at both ends or is it mainly to have off the shelf replacement parts available? I'm thinking with the type of wheeling I do and lack of big tires/lift, that the OEM style flange on the diff side would be acceptable? Sorry for all the questions, learning new stuff as I go.
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I personally would recommend getting new yokes. This will allow you to run a longer shaft and by doing so, it will help minimize the angle it will sit at and help prevent drive line vibrations. If you get a 1350, it should come with a replacement flange at the output shaft.
 
The JE Reel 1310 HD comes with the flanges/yokes required, really simple install. Just bring an impact gun (removal) and big boy pants (install) for the front differential nut.
 
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