First build questions

J

JKBob

New member
Background: Ok so still new and figuring things out. So I have an 2015 JK OM sport. Never thought I'd be off-road till I caught the bug. Now have found awesome rock crawling in my area, and would like to go to Moab and Rubicon in next year or so.

Starting with 4"lift, 35" Toyos at?mt?(insert advise here)


So in jeeps performance catalog I can get rubi axles brand new bolt in 2100rear and 2500front. This will be 4.1gear/stock locker/shafts and all 4600 total.

Or buy front 2100, Arb rear1200, regear both for 1200 (4.88 maybe). Total 4500. (Seems smarter than first,but more work, but I'm no stranger to turning wrench.)

As far as I can tell I can get a prorock44 front with locker/gear/rcv around 4000 (4.88?/arb/rcv). Will then have to buy Rear Arb 1400 (locker/pumpHO/setup) and regear rear (700). Total 6100 (kinda breaks bank, but can do if I wanna deal with the wife ramifications (Much harder than turning wrench)
Please advise can't dump money and move up later (Wife would never let that go).
 
I can't tell you anything about the d44 or pr44 as I haven't taken that route yet but I would advise you to stay away from a 4" lift. I have a 3" lift with 35"s and I regret doing it. You can clear those tires with a 2.5" lift without needing to get adjustable control arms, drive shafts and all the other bs that comes with correcting your geometry.

Others with more experience will chime in, I'm fairly new but this is what I have learned so far. Congrats on the jeep btw👍
 
JKBob said:
Background: Ok so still new and figuring things out. So I have an 2015 JK OM sport. Never thought I'd be off-road till I caught the bug. Now have found awesome rock crawling in my area, and would like to go to Moab and Rubicon in next year or so.

Starting with 4"lift, 35" Toyos at?mt?(insert advise here)


So in jeeps performance catalog I can get rubi axles brand new bolt in 2100rear and 2500front. This will be 4.1gear/stock locker/shafts and all 4600 total.

Or buy front 2100, Arb rear1200, regear both for 1200 (4.88 maybe). Total 4500. (Seems smarter than first,but more work, but I'm no stranger to turning wrench.)

As far as I can tell I can get a prorock44 front with locker/gear/rcv around 4000 (4.88?/arb/rcv). Will then have to buy Rear Arb 1400 (locker/pumpHO/setup) and regear rear (700). Total 6100 (kinda breaks bank, but can do if I wanna deal with the wife ramifications (Much harder than turning wrench)
Please advise can't dump money and move up later (Wife would never let that go).
Click to expand...

1) 4" of lift is way to high for 35s. I'm running a 2.5" budget boost and 35s with a little rubbing that could be solved with a little more bump stop.

2) do not waste your money on Rubicon axles espically the front. The front 44 is more of a 30/44 hybrid. They are exactly the same except the size of the pumpkin.

3) looks like you were looking at NR4X4 PR44 packages. If give Trail Jeeps or ORE a call and have them build you one of less. If you need help PM member Cozdude. It's what he did.

Finally. Since you only want to run 35s I wouldn't worry with an axle swap until it starts breaking. Plenty of members have been running a dana30 with 35s for a while and have had little problems. The only thing I'd do is Gusset the Cs and maybe Regear depending on how cheap you can get it done.
 
JKBob said:
Background: Ok so still new and figuring things out. So I have an 2015 JK OM sport. Never thought I'd be off-road till I caught the bug. Now have found awesome rock crawling in my area, and would like to go to Moab and Rubicon in next year or so.

Starting with 4"lift, 35" Toyos at?mt?(insert advise here)
Click to expand...

I started from a very similar point as you about 4 months ago, except with a JKUR. A 2.5" budget boost and some pinch seam/rubi rock rail trimming with a sawzall cleared my Nitto 35's (historically a big 35" tire) so don't lift into the upper atmosphere unless you deem it necessary for some reason or like that look. For tires I personally love the Mud Terrains but we also live in a place where stuff can get soupy in a hurry.
 
If I keep stock axles and regear wouldn't it be silly not to put lockers in at same time?

Lift I was looking at is 4" mopar has steering/geometry correction/ cvdriveshaft for 2250. Out of stock now they are renumbering it. Have a shop that will install for 400. I could do myself, but for 400 the added leverage a shop install would give is worth it.

Wanted to regear due to 35s robbing power and mpg.
 
Right Rudder said:
I started from a very similar point as you about 4 months ago, except with a JKUR. A 2.5" budget boost and some pinch seam/rubi rock rail trimming with a sawzall cleared my Nitto 35's (historically a big 35" tire) so don't lift into the upper atmosphere unless you deem it necessary for some reason or like that look. For tires I personally love the Mud Terrains but we also live in a place where stuff can get soupy in a hurry.
Click to expand...

I live in high desert and while I like to do some mud bogging opportunities are scarce out here
 
Go with a cheaper auto locker like an Aussie. That way you aren't wasting if you upgrade axles.
 
Is there a benefit to going less lift aside from money? Just seems 2250 for everything in mopar 4" is a good deal. Tune Fox red shocks900,springs 300,damper100, control arms front/rear500, cvdriveshaft400, high steer 100?(no idea), brakelines50, 2450ish total give or take where you get stuff and a little more confidence Chrysler will be more likely to cover Chrysler parts?

Might go 37s later if after 35s wear I find I needed more.

Is there a performance reason to sit lower.

Any more axle locker gear advice.

Thanks to all who have responded as well.
 
Center of gravity. The lowest you can go on lift to fit the tires you want to run. Keeps your jeep more stable in off camber situations. Plus the wife/gf won't complain when trying to climb in as much.
 
MR.Ty said:
1) 4" of lift is way to high for 35s. I'm running a 2.5" budget boost and 35s with a little rubbing that could be solved with a little more bump stop.

2) do not waste your money on Rubicon axles espically the front. The front 44 is more of a 30/44 hybrid. They are exactly the same except the size of the pumpkin.

3) looks like you were looking at NR4X4 PR44 packages. If give Trail Jeeps or ORE a call and have them build you one of less. If you need help PM member Cozdude. It's what he did.

Finally. Since you only want to run 35s I wouldn't worry with an axle swap until it starts breaking. Plenty of members have been running a dana30 with 35s for a while and have had little problems. The only thing I'd do is Gusset the Cs and maybe Regear depending on how cheap you can get it done.
Click to expand...

Sound advice right here ^^^

CREEPR said:
Go with a cheaper auto locker like an Aussie. That way you aren't wasting if you upgrade axles.
Click to expand...

Auto lockers are great but, being that he lives in Idaho where I assume he'll see a lot of snow/ice, I personally wouldn't recommend it.
 
My friend ran 35's with no lift and flat fender flares and did pretty well off road. I've installed two 2.5" Rock Krawler lifts and it's a perfect lift for 35's. Northridge 4x4 has some pretty good package deals. Your jeep is super capable and will surprise you time and time again. Good Luck.
 
JKBob said:
Background: Ok so still new and figuring things out. So I have an 2015 JK OM sport. Never thought I'd be off-road till I caught the bug. Now have found awesome rock crawling in my area, and would like to go to Moab and Rubicon in next year or so.

Starting with 4"lift, 35" Toyos at?mt?(insert advise here)


So in jeeps performance catalog I can get rubi axles brand new bolt in 2100rear and 2500front. This will be 4.1gear/stock locker/shafts and all 4600 total.

Or buy front 2100, Arb rear1200, regear both for 1200 (4.88 maybe). Total 4500. (Seems smarter than first,but more work, but I'm no stranger to turning wrench.)

As far as I can tell I can get a prorock44 front with locker/gear/rcv around 4000 (4.88?/arb/rcv). Will then have to buy Rear Arb 1400 (locker/pumpHO/setup) and regear rear (700). Total 6100 (kinda breaks bank, but can do if I wanna deal with the wife ramifications (Much harder than turning wrench)
Please advise can't dump money and move up later (Wife would never let that go).
Click to expand...

BABOOZLE said:
My friend ran 35's with no lift and flat fender flares and did pretty well off road. I've installed two 2.5" Rock Krawler lifts and it's a perfect lift for 35's. Northridge 4x4 has some pretty good package deals. Your jeep is super capable and will surprise you time and time again. Good Luck.
Click to expand...

This is what I'm doing, rock krawler 2.5 and bilsteins :D
 
wayoflife said:
For areas that don't see snow and ice, auto lockers are a great option for sure especially being that they're so cheap.
Click to expand...

Would a Detroit Truetrac be a good option for snow and ice? I understand that this helical gear system (originally known as a Gleason) is much smoother than the traditional auto lockers and still very effective. I understand that this is what the Hummer uses in both differentials.
 
True track is ok for snow and ice, but in my opinion not worth wasting money on vs a selectable locker. Traction control from the factory is probably as good or better than a true trac. I ran the true trac in my old '79 ford in front with a Detroit in the rear years ago when I lived in Idaho and it worked great, but the old ford never had factory traction control like new vehicles.
 
I have a 4" rough country short arm lift and 35s. I love the combo the lift does great and I have been wheeling pretty hard hard a decent amount lately. As far as axles I would just run you stock and regear them to what gears your wanting. (I'm running 4.88s)
 
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