Enforcer 3" installation

S

scooter k

New member
Couple questions. The front control arms says in the instructions to install with the clamp towards the axle with the grease zerk up. The front grease zerk is shrouded by the bracket on the axle. Is that right?

The instructions refer to replacing both the front and rear brake lines too. I'm guessing the supplied ones are for the rear? What are you doing to the front?

Comes with one set of sway bar links which look like they are for the rear also. What do you do with the front?
 
scooter k said:
Couple questions. The front control arms says in the instructions to install with the clamp towards the axle with the grease zerk up. The front grease zerk is shrouded by the bracket on the axle. Is that right?

The instructions refer to replacing both the front and rear brake lines too. I'm guessing the supplied ones are for the rear? What are you doing to the front?

Comes with one set of sway bar links which look like they are for the rear also. What do you do with the front?
Click to expand...

Yea the zero fitting goes up to protect it from breaking off.

The brake lines do need to be replaced. To do this you will need to remove the 7 mm bolt securing the brake line and wire to the axle. Remove the wire from the bracket and zip tie to the new brake line.

The sway bar links I believe are for the rear and you take the ones removed from the rear and put them on the front.

Hope this helps.


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you can buy some 90 degree grease zerks to make it easier to grease. i think the size was 1/4"x 28 maybe? i bought a box for 3 bucks or around there.
 
olram30 said:
you can buy some 90 degree grease zerks to make it easier to grease. i think the size was 1/4"x 28 maybe? i bought a box for 3 bucks or around there.
Click to expand...

If you have a Tractor Supply that will
Be your best bet.


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scooter k said:
Couple questions. The front control arms says in the instructions to install with the clamp towards the axle with the grease zerk up. The front grease zerk is shrouded by the bracket on the axle. Is that right?

The instructions refer to replacing both the front and rear brake lines too. I'm guessing the supplied ones are for the rear? What are you doing to the front?

Comes with one set of sway bar links which look like they are for the rear also. What do you do with the front?
Click to expand...

Yup what canvas said and here's a great write up from Eddie on how to bleed your brakes :thumb: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?4335-MAINTENANCE-Bleeding-the-Brakes-on-a-Jeep-JK-Wrangler
 
The shocks in the front seem like they are really too long.

The brake hose and line stuff is confusing in the instructions. Anyone have pictures of the front and rear?

I see about the links now.

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Last edited:
scooter k said:
The shocks in the front seem like they are really too long.

The brake hose and line stuff is confusing in the instructions. Anyone have pictures of the front and rear?

I see about the links now.

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Click to expand...

what shocks did you go with? i'm not sure exactly what they include, but usually longer lines go in the rear and if you have a 12 and up, longer lines aren't needed. just undo the metal bracket on the spring perch and zip tie them. i'm not sure if they are supposed to include front and rear lines.:idontknow:
 
scooter k said:
Blistein shocks

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Click to expand...

The shocks are for 3-4 inch lift so on 3 inch they seem long but it allows for more travel, mine is the same, you may have to install a spring retainer to keep the coil in place if you wheel it hard
 
Brake lines front. Sorry so dirty.

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1414811949.029030.jpg

Rear.

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1414811964.897676.jpg
 

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The bilsteins are 3.5-5 so yes the front will seem long but use a coil retainer and you will have some nice flex up front

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pvanweelden said:
The bilsteins are 3.5-5 so yes the front will seem long but use a coil retainer and you will have some nice flex up front

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Click to expand...

that's the set up i have, the coils are borderline, they dont unseat, but they can move (twist). i also used some shock relocation brackets that moved them out 2" and up .5".. if using the factory rear shaft, the factory evap skid needs to be moved or the shaft will rip quick:doh:
 
^ evo, jks, or nemesis make the shock relocation brackets you would to add for the lower front shock mounts

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pvanweelden said:
^ evo, jks, or nemesis make the shock relocation brackets you would to add for the lower front shock mounts

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Click to expand...

I got nemesis, evo wasn't available at the time. With that long of a shock, you run the risk of hitting the frame.
 
So you cut loose all the factory plastic clips on the wheel speed harness to brake hose or leave them? Take loose the metal retainer at axle? Take it completely off the brake hose then too? Where is the routing of these? In front of the shock as it was or behind the shock now?

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This is how I did mine. This was before my lift. This is while I was doing my ball joints. Best picture I have
 

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I drilled the hole tonight in the right spindle. The drag link is butted together at ends in the adjustment sleeve and really no where close to going in the hole. It is sitting on jack stands with no tires on it but I can't see where that's going to work right.

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